rcf925

I put in a Champion last year, Didn't have to change anything, Bolted right in with a 12" pusher fan on front, Car stays cool below midway on temp gauge, Rarely have to turn fan on

I use stock distributor with pertronix electronics with there flamethrower coil. Fires right up hot or cold and runs great

1 hour ago, kbmb02 said:

 

Perhaps I'm not sure what's being said here.

 

What I'm reasonably certain of, is  the type of balancing required for an inline 4 cylinder M10 is not the same as what's needed on a V8. As I understand it, it's not necessary to spin balance the whole assembly (crank/rods/pistons/flywheel/clutch/etc).

 

What I do, generally

 - 'weight balance' (equalize) each piston/rod/pin assembly

 - spin-balance the crankshaft (zero-balanced)

 - spin-balance the flywheel, clutch pressure plate (and front pulley), attached to the crankshaft

(the clutch/pressure plate can also be independently zero-balanced)

- I can't recall seeing a 'harmonic balancer' on an M10      -KB

 

Called harmonic when I should have said pully, How you balance is how mine was done

When it comes to balancing you need to do whole rotating mass, Crank, rods,pistons, Harmonic balancer, Not just flywheel and pressure plate. Everything that turns with crankshaft needs to be balanced or it's pointless

If you go the IE shifter route, For me it wasn't plug n play with my gertrag 245. To get into all gears I had to modify, Does work fine now

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/

I highly recommend getting the the rotating mass balanced, Crank,pistons,rods,flywheel.  I did mine a year ago and it makes motor so smooth it's well worth it especially if your going to be running it hard

If you google there are wiring diagrams for these cars if you don't have the BMW service manuals

Ebay is not bad, I've found quite a few parts on there

I tried doing rattle can with local paint shop to match my red for touch up, Previously they matched paint on numerous projects for spray gun that turned out spot on but when it came to the match with rattle can for some reason it was off, So for me it's back to the gun

Use Clay but if you meet any resistance turning over motor, STOP and take apart so nothing gets bent if there a problem

Last year when I put together my 68, Replaced every seal, rubber, poly part except rear seal on tranny output shaft, Of course it was the only leak I have LOL, Replaced it with new seal and Guibo, Polished wheels which I was going to switch to steel but there kinda growing on me so for now I'll leave them on.

CV Joints will click when going bad

For me it's all about the Rust and straight body, I don't care about the mechanicals at all, You haven't mentioned price so can't say to buy or not

I'm happy I went with the 215mm on my 68 Restomod, Works just fine, Revs quickly, I believe it's 30lbs lighter than the 228mm set-up. As far as longevity will see

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

not quite plug and play.

 

The later dash does fit into the earlier car, but the holddowns are different, and the 

climate controls can be different, depending on year.

 

It can be made to work well (and it's certainly an upgrade) but be ready to fuss a bit.

Also, switch holes may be different sizes, etc...

 

t

 

Ya I'm debating whether to swap or take mine out and redo, There are quite a few differences on the face of it

I've got a 68 02 with dash in pretty rough shape, Cut out where a roll bar was on both sides, cracks etc. I picked up a Tii dash that only has 2 minor cracks cause the price was right (Free). I was wondering if it would swap out with my 68, Would gauge cluster fit etc. It does have a couple holes I think for clock and seatbelt light on top but I can work with those if everything else will fit. 

4 hours ago, RTHLSS1 said:

Got majority of trim back from shop - I like the way it came out.

 

 

Next on schedule bumpers and front mask which needed welding.

 

Just a question about chroming in your part of the world, Is it expensive as here in the states, In CA very expensive if you can even find someone, Looks great by the way, I also have a 68, Now a restomod

I was more focused on what looks like a tree blocking your lane ahead 

For $1000 if your doing work yourself I would clean it as best you can, Get it running then decide at that point to keep or sell, A running 2002 is worth more than yard art

Loosen bolts in reverse of tightening sequence, Then just retorque, I didnt use angle torque method, I think 57 ft lbs is whats called for, i tightened mine to 64 ft lbs and then retorqued after 20 minute break-in, then again at 500 miles

Prices will continue to go up as the value of the dollar keeps going down, I don't see that changing anytime soon

The diagram showed is not for Italian webers, They don't have cup and rubber o-ring under spring on idle screw

I have a 68, I took trailing arms from my long neck diff and put them on newer subframe with 3.91 LSD. I ordered all bushings from IE and they all fit

The reason I said take to engine builder is for that very reason, I had a motor that was supposedly rebuilt when I put my car together but since I didn't put motor together I didn't trust it. I took my motor to builder (friend) to double check everything and he found same problem as yours. Previous rebuild used standard main bearings on a .010 ground crankshaft.