rcf925

I suggest taking short block to machine shop and have everything looked at and measured and head and machined correctly,  Then he can order all correct bearings or anything else

2 hours ago, Hans said:

Ok, timing not an issue. A stupid question perhaps but is it possible you have too much carb for the engine with 34s?

And stock Cam

$500 is a lot of $$$, But not compared to putting motor together incorrectly and have problems

Heres a pair of manuals on Ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-1974-BMW-1602-1802-2002-Service-Repair-Manual/372966996128?hash=item56d690b8a0:g:1KUAAOSw~v1aHt5V

It's the BMW factory shop manuals, You gotta shop around cause there 50 years old. The orange one is just a owners manual

It's easier to tension if top piece of front cover is off but you should be able to get screwdriver down there to push on tensioner. If your going to dive into total rebuild I highly recommend getting the 2 blue workshop manuals for these cars, Everything you need is in there, I wouldn't do it without them

There has to be oil in the trough where piston hits tensioner, After putting spring and piston and cap back on push the tensioner to pump piston back and forth til it gets stiff or you quit seeing bubbles in the oil sitting in the trough, Once motor is started it usually finishes tensioning. It pays to have blue shop manual for these cars, Procedure is in there

I wouldn't use them, Why risk it for a few $$

7 minutes ago, flagoworld said:

Test fit! Looks like ill need to do something with the battery as it doesn’t fit there ?

 

The never ending struggle ?

 

 

If your talking under the back seat for battery, I used an AGM Miata battery under seat, You can lay down battery if you have too but I left mine upright and it fits

I don't think I'd want it for $4500

Says $14,500 in the add

1 hour ago, spuriouspseudo said:

Those look nice - message sent.  Thanks.

 

Cool, thanks - might have to change the outlet on the two core - looks a little different, like it might hit the subframe.

 

I'll see what the price tag is on the Ron Davis rad and make a decision this weekend...  Thanks again.

Shouldn't hit subframe, It has the upwards bend in it

1 hour ago, spuriouspseudo said:

Did you get the single row?  I'm about to make the same purchase, but the only one with a drain in the photos, plus an outlet that looks right is the single row.

 

Nice bay!  

Pretty sure it's a 2 core, The core is 2" wide

In My opinion if you haven't upped compression, Ported head, Bigger cam theres probably no reason to go with dual carb set up, But if you do all the upgrading it's well worth it, After getting set up you shouldn't have to fiddle with carbs

Mine was high in the front when I installed it, Hood hinges are slotted, I just lowered mine to where it looked good

7 minutes ago, thinksound_mike said:

I have a Top Speed one and it's pretty good. The welds were nice but the mounting holes were drilled off on two or three spots. I had to widen the holes to make it fit. It's all stainless and was pretty cheap They may still have some on ebay. I think they were around $150. Scott Sislane has one as well and his fit perfect, so maybe mine was an odd ball.

 

 

I bought the same ones off Ebay, Had to file a couple bolt holes out to fit, Other than that there polished stainless with a thick flange and works fine and the price was good

Pretty easy to build one, Home Depot, 4x4's, 2x6's  and 4 large wheels, That's what mine sat on til I got it back on the road

I live in a rural area, I've pegged my speedo a few times

I would check all Bolts both ends of driveshaft and center bearing mount

I've converted a few motors from carbs to injection. I usually go to junk yard and try to pull injection parts from similar motors, Like I did 87 jeep 4.2 motor by grabbing complete injection off newer 4.0 jeep motor with the head and all wiring harness, computer etc.  One i just did about a year ago was a 69 dodge powerwagon with a 318, I went to junkyard and took throttle body injection off 87 ramcharger including harness, computer etc.  It's a lot of work cutting all wires out of harness you don't need and just keeping the essentials. In both cases motors ran great when I was done but it ain't for the faint of heart, On the Jeep there was a lot of internet knowledge, On the Powerwagon zero help anywhere to be found. I've thought about doing same to My 68 02 but just want to find simplest way to do it, Thinking of some 80's throttle body of 4 cylinder 2 liter  that's OBD1 which makes it less complicated

6 minutes ago, ray_ said:

 

 

I'm running the return line with the Jeep filter. Go ahead and bite the bullet and run the line. Though it won't help with the empty bowl.

 

I poured fuel directly into the carb once (or twice) when hot and watched it boil away immediately....

 

GL,

How come fuel is boiling on your cars with a cross flow head, Exhaust is on opposite side, When I check my carbs after driving there cool to the touch

Being that motor has a lot of unknowns, I would pull the block and tear it all down, But that's just me, I wouldn't want to do head and put back together and find out bottom end is no good. I had pretty much same situation with my motor, Had sat for 20 years and supposedly rebuilt. When I decided to check bottom end before putting together I found all kinds of problems, Plugged oil passage, Wrong size main bearings, If I hadn't checked it would have been a bad situation

In CA I mailed in money for tags after DMV website wouldn't work for registration. I got my tags 3 months after expiration date, It took 4 months

It's a tight fit, Angled front of bar should face down

22 minutes ago, HarryPR said:

Great information as always, Mike! I owned 1661508 about 35 years ago and I seem to recall that it had a mechanical clutch. Not 100% sure now, though.

I own 1661541 and it has hydraulic clutch