rcf925

13 hours ago, OriginalOwner said:

did somebody say BURGERS ??????

 

https://www.visitatascadero.com/things-to-do/Brews-and-Burgers-Trail/

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

My Hometown, There's an In-N-Out right off the 101, For me best burger in town is the Lamb Burger at Street Side Ale House

They say optimum is 2ft. back from exhaust port, Mines a little further back for access and it works fine

I believe my weber and manifold set-up came off a 1800 Ti/SA    Correct  15/16 45's

Big plus those are Italian Webers, Pretty hard to come by these days

The #1 go to place for me has been La Jolla Independent, Saved my build many times with the hard to get stuff

I've used the BAR before on a complete front end build on a C10 I had, Job was botched, Used parts put in, A mess. Repair shop told me tough luck, I contacted BAR, A bout a week later Repair shop calls me and says we wish you wouldn't have called them, Apologized, they couldn't my truck back in to fix fast enough. All new everything and new tires also which I never had done the first time. BAR does have some clout

It might turn over randomly, But I would leave bellhousing ground to firewall ground, It can be hit and miss without it

Run 1/4" braided  ground from bell housing to Brown ground on firewall, Your gauges and your starter will thank you. This cured the problem your having with your starter on my car, It was intermittent click, No start, Also made all my gauges settle down and work correctly

I have Bilstein HD Adj. Coilovers and yes there is some clunking, I have 300# springs up front and 200# in rear. I reduced some of it by putting a homemade rubber washer on top of springs which helped  a lot but doesn't eliminate. It leans more toward a track set-up than street. It's ok on street but you wanna avoid potholes for sure

Slavs, I have 68 2002 diff out of my car, Were they all 3.64?   Only number I could find on it was  12C

I don't know where OP is located but I have a Long Neck diff out of my 68 I'd sell, Pick up only

I ask CA DMV numerous times to reduce back fees and they always done it for me, There doesn't seem to be a hard and fast rule on fees, Doesn't hurt to ask. As long as there's no outstanding tickets on car which helps you prove it wasn't driven for all the years it was parked helps.

When I did my IE 5spd conversion I didn't like there shifter either, I had to do some grinding and cutting on IE's shifter bracket to make stock shifter work but I like it much better

4 hours ago, TobyB said:

If you're farting around with DCOEs, you will want far more cam than a '284'-

 

and a significant increase in your exhaust, too.

 

We tend to get hung up on the offerings from McCormich and Schmick's,

but their '292' is wussy, followed by a huge jump to the 'whatever it is that's next'.

It's not the duration, it's lift and overlap.  The '292' that they sell doesn't lift much

or overlap aggressively, nor does it lift fast.

 

Ideally, you'd find something with lift like their 'I forget' next number up, but with a tighter 

lobe separation angle so it'll idle.  I have some junk in the race car that flows well, but idles

like a street car at 1k- and that's with carbs I don't try to tune for idle.

 

Anyone else out theres have cams they likes?

 

t

SOOOOO off the schmicks now that they're ground on the same blank as everyone else.

 

I'm running IE .292 , not regrind with dcoe 45's, 10:1 CR, Shorty headers into Ansa, Ported E12 head. Pulls easily to 7500  . The 304 in my opinion is a little much for the street, pretty lopey idle. Shortly I hope to put on a Dyno to see where I'm at HP wise

Seems like almost a yearly thing these days, That whole road needs a do over but probably never happen

2 hours ago, Mucci said:

 

Using the OEM shifter would eliminate the short-shift feature, the reason I bought this.

 There ain't a whole lot of difference between short throw and not on these cars,  I like a little taller shifter

I Used IE shifter platform for my Gertrag 245 but kept my shifter out of the 4spd, I had to modify IE platform but shifter is perfect for me, It's in neutral as shown

I've used it for years and also super glue for the bigger gashes

When money is no object, This is what you get, But money doesn't by styling, Functionality, I understand all the hard work but not for me 

36mm chokes to big for your set-up IMO, I would start by listing every part of your set-up Emulsion Tubes, jets, chokes etc. You need a baseline to start from

If you have oil on exhaust manifold and dripping oil under motor most likely culprit is valve cover gasket, These motors spray a ton of oil on cam and rockers, If it's not sealed it will push out a lot of oil on exhaust side of valve cover

If crack in gasket is on high side of pan don't worry about it, Low side you got a problem. Gasgacinch is your friend, I use it everywhere, Very easy to remove and you don't need a lot

It doesn't cost that much to balance rotating assembly, you'll be glad you did if you do it

Abomination inside and out, Kinda looks thrown together

Back on the road after sitting in pieces in a garage for 20 years, Did the resto-mod in my garage and finally got everything dialed in. Everything mechanical, Motor,trans, rear end, suspension, brakes either new or rebuilt on a zero rust 68.