Naz

Oh. Didn't think of the fact that you have an external voltage regulator. Yes, it looks right, other than the comments made by others about the condition of the wires.

Kind of hard to see what is going on here. Basically, you want B+ to go the battery + terminal, D + to be connected to the field charging circuit (typically the "blue" wire) and the body of the alternator to be grounded to the body of the alternator. What circuit is the black wire connected to? And, where does the second blue wire connect?
 

Pic of the wires coming out of regulator.



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Alternator was wired wrong. I rewired but wanted to make sure I got it right. Any input is greatly appreciated.

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I recently purchased a new set of sunroof cables out of a Volvo that will work on the 2000 and 2002. Apparently some modifications need to be made to make them work? Can anyone point me in the right direction or link to what steps I must take?

Thank you

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Looks good. Nice carpets! Noticed your seatbelts. I need to get some for the back seat for the kids.



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I started taking apart the front subframe over the last two weekends (https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0x5idkMwEyVHw) and putting together a parts list, as I need to get the front suspension refreshed before the temporary 1.8 arrives.  After the engine is in the car, I'll do the rear subframe.
 
Bushings and nuts/bolts are easy to find, but I'm struggling on what to do about front struts and my mis-matched front springs: I have a green spring on the left and a white spring on the right (green at both rears).  My right-side control arm is pretty bashed-up under the ball joint, to the point that I can't get the bolts out to replace the ball joint, so I'm likely going to replace both control arms since the parts are still available new.  I'm additionally debating whether I should spend the money and get the subframe powder-coated or not, considering how much other $$$ will be needed elsewhere...I could opt to do it when the 2.0 finally goes in, it's not rusty or anything.  I also need to replace the center steering link, as it's bent pretty severely.
 
The good news is now that I have actual BMW reference material (PDF of the blue binder parts list and hard-copy of the blue binder workshop manual) and the subframe is out of the car, I can verify that it's mostly original: early subframe, one remaining green spring (to match the two at rear), NK-specific front anti-roll bar/sway bar, and single-circuit brake system.  It looks like someone just swapped out some "2002" front struts from a junk yard and bolted on the NK brakes and springs (I "2002", because for all I know it could have been another NK mislabeled at the yard as an '02)...although no explanation as to why the single white spring on the front-right.
 
Front Right (blue/white):

 
Front Left (blue/green):

 
 
Also, I thought I'd share how I organize these projects lately...using Apple's "Numbers" spreadsheet application because it allows such free-form work with mixed-media types (literally just paste in images, pdf files, etc and create charts/graphic elements with ability to have floating tables).  Welcome to my madness:
 

Original down pipe for 1967 BMW 2000tilux. $50 plus shipping.

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I have an original crankshaft out of my 1967 2000tilux that I no longer require. I had it ground and polished by the machine shop with the intention of using it. I ended up putting the 8 bolt crank shaft in my block leaving me with the original 6 bolt crank which I don't for see myself ever having a use for. Details are on the tag attached to crank.
 
The throw out bearing is in excellent condition. Flywheel, pressure plate ect..everything to make it happen.
 
Cash, trade or crypto currency accepted.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
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Yes im putting the original air box on. Regarding the breather filter. I'm trying it out as I'm not fond of the oil building up in the air filter housing. I'll be experimenting with what to do. Are there any benefits to venting it into the air box?



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Thanks..getting close.



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This is my favorite color on the 2002. Glws.

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I'm Back at it!
It's been along time since I posted my progress. Mostly because there hasn't been any. I installed the Abarth exaughst, engine, driveshaft, had a new core put in the radiator all in the last week. Just waiting on some ignition parts from IE to complete the job. Hopefully have this car running withing a couple weeks, maybe less. Here are a couple pics of what it's looking like to date. Oh and I'm still looking for a driver side door brake if anyone knows of one.

I'm not digging the blue hoses as only half of them actually fit the car. Got the blue ignition wires to match but at the end of day all black would of kept it looking all original.

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Pm about fenders


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Got one side done finally. It's been slow going these days but I'm back at it. Looks like the park brake cable is seized up so I'm just going to replace both sides and be done with it.




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It's been a while since I've been on here. Congrats on picking this unit up and saving it!


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Where did you end up getting your door seals? Did you spring for the outrageously overpriced nos units?


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Thanks for the info on the output flange btw. In your pic they look the same.


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Hi Ed. Yes you fill it with grease and it is in fact adjustable. I thought the 2002's were the same? I guess not if your asking the question.


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I have yet to drop the engine back in. If fails one day I'll go the Ireland way. I'm about as happy as I can be with the eBay purchase so far.


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Toby, you pointed out something I did not consider. Now I'm looking closer at the assembly. I'm hoping I can get away with just replacing the shaft as the hub splines seem ok...or maybe not. Here are some pics.

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Thanks Chester, I was wondering if perhaps I am using the wrong grease for my wheel bearings and u-joint. I haven't run anything yet but I have been using the following.





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That's interesting Tom, I never knew that was even part of the assembly. Those hole reinforcement were never present when I took it apart. My bolts are hex bolts rather than the Alan key style as well. I like the idea of adding the reinforcement now that I see it.





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Tom, I found a used pair outGermany for 99 euro so I grabbed them. Thanks for The Info re: hub


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Just a follow up on my experience with the damages a loose rear hub causes. Here are some images of what yours probably looks like if you've been driving it even for a short period of time. Broken bearing, stripped output ect...

Definitely should be taken apart and addressed.






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