Mucci

3 hours ago, '76Mintgrun'02 said:

In your first photo, showing the carb's model number, the nut above that number looks quite loose.

 

Man, again, good call on that loose nut. They were all about finger tight. Some just floating. 

Are these choke flaps the square butterflies under the filter? I noticed there are circular butterflies deeper within with I assume are the actual throttles. When I push the square butterflies down that snap back pretty ...snappy. There's still a small gap for air to flow past (checked cold).

1 hour ago, Simeon said:

Fuel filter looks good! 

 

where does your engine breather pipe go now? This is the pipe from the rocker cover at the top rear.   I ask because I wonder if all the dirt on the carb came from oil out of the breather. 

You should have seen the old one...

The valve cover breather is just a small K&N (previous owner), and yes the area around it was pretty sludge soaked so it's possible that's where all that gunk came from. Where does that hose normally route?

I have a question regarding the linkage. I noticed that if I actuate the throttle by pushing down at the red arrow slightly the linkage will stick open ever so slightly to raise the idle maybe 2-300 rpm. When I actuate the throttle by twisting the rod (blue arrow) the red arrow linkage isn't engaged. Is the red arrow linkage choke related? It seems kind of sticky.

Is there a way to put 12V to the electronic choke to see if it actuates properly?

23 minutes ago, '76Mintgrun'02 said:

In your first photo, showing the carb's model number, the nut above that number looks quite loose.

 

I would suggest putting a wrench on all four of those nuts and snug'em up a little bit.

 

I would also make sure the screws that hold the top on are not coming out.

 

The blocked off port on the weber simply gives you the option of moving the inlet nipple to either side, then you put the plug in the other.

 

The plugged nipple at the manifold under the carb was part of the emissions system, which has been disabled.

 

 

Ah! Good call on that loose nut. If it's inline with the rest of the PO's "mods" I'm sure it's cross-threaded.

What "screws that hold the top down" are you talking about? The air filter box?

Does the plugged nipple on the manifold under the carb indicate this car doesn't have the "reactor" and other emissions components? I've only read a little bit about guys removing all that stuff and haven't identified it all yet. I do know my "service reactor" light is on though. 

34 minutes ago, halboyles said:

First off, your carb is due for a good bath.  At least blow the outside off with carb cleaner but it also probably needs a hot tub visit and a rebuild.  There is an electric choke installed on the unit regardless what the model says it was at birth (e= electric, a=agua).  If you are having stumbling issues for a few minutes after startup then it is probably a choke issue.  Take off the top of the air filter assembly when the engine is cold.  Push the the chokes flaps down with your finger and then let go.  The flaps should return to the closed position.  Once the engine is  warmed up the flaps should be partially open at idle and then open fully when the throttle is quickly pushed down

Yes I agree on the cleanliness. I've got an ultrasonic cleaner for motorcycle carbs but I think this one will be too big. Is the electronic choke the relatively clean part in the 2nd photo?

If the choke flaps do not return as you say they should how do I fix that? Is it just a clean up or is there a part failing?

Picked up my first 2002 a few weeks ago and step one is a tune up. The car chugs pretty hard at start up. After about 2-3 min it evens out. I assume this is a choke related issue so I have a few questions:

1. Does this sound like a choke issue?

2. I've found the Weber serial number but it's hard to tell if it reads DGEV or DGAV. How do you verify this by looking at it?

3. There are a couple blocked off ports on the carb. Can someone explain why they're blocked off? (I marked them with arrows)

The previous owner made many questionable modifications throughout the car so I'm trying to understand what's out of place and how to do it the right way. Please let me know if you see anything else out of place!

I apologize for how dirty it is. I'm getting there...

Did photos and a PDF ever come out of this thread? Looks like PO isn't a member anymore?

I ordered a set of Bremi spark plug wires on Amazon and a set from "STI" showed up instead. Spark Transfer International. Are these any good or should I return them for Bremi?

2 hours ago, Alpinaguru said:

I have several. I'll post photo tomorrow 

Great, let me know how much you want shipped to 97211

1 hour ago, williamggruff said:

They appear to be available for $0.63-68 each from your BMW dealer. 

 

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/products/1967/Securing-plate/1382166/54129734159.html

BMW's who told me they're not available. 

Looking for the small serrated D shaped nut that adjusts the rear of the sunroof. PN is 54129734159. Top right of this image

theyre NLA I guess. 

1 hour ago, 02Les said:

This is an old one that may help you.

Fantastic! Although they used a recip saw to get it off I think I have a good idea of what needs to be done. Thanks!

I've tracked down a new front fascia on a donor car and want to fully understand how to remove it before I go get it. 

Is there a step by step somewhere on how to do this? I'm having trouble finding something. 

From looking at my car it appears there's spot welds along the radiator support and maybe bolts in the front fender edge. I can't tell what's going on towards the back / in the engine compartment. Luckily the donor car doesn't have a motor in it. 

On 1/28/2017 at 10:18 AM, Tlambert said:

Ric Farrar, Sheltie Motors, been at it since the late 70's. Not to dis Mike, but he's almost deaf, communication can be tough.


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Having a hard time finding anything about Sheltie Motors. "Sheltie Motorsports" comes up in some searches but the address is a residence.

3 hours ago, 7502 said:

I bought a set from that same seller in late August of last year. . They are nice quality 2 large volumes.

Did the photos within seem to be original quality or did they look scanned in?

They're a pain to communicate with and don't seem to want to give me the information I keep asking for over and over again. The only info I've gotten is that these reproductions are produced by them and not BMW. They won't send me any physical photos.

6 minutes ago, AceAndrew said:

No,  it is no longer in print.

 

You can find copies that pop up on ebay or the classified section fairly frequently.  Expect to pay between $80-$140 for the pair.

 

I am not sure which scans you've looked at, but the scan that Steve uploaded is the most decent I've seen....

 

 

Yea those are the PDF's I downloaded. They're good I just like having a bound copy so I don't have to mess with my phone/laptop mid project.

It looks like the originals come in ring binders which makes me more skeptical of the "glue bound" ebay listing above. Has anyone bought from that guy?

Looks like a brand new set of the binders is $400!

Found this on ebay but I'm a little hesitant to give him $100 when there are no photos of the actual manual.

Just bought the Haynes manual and it's pretty disappointing. Lots of text-only sections without any diagrams or photos. I found the downloadable PDF's in the technical resources page and that manual looks a lot more thorough. Is that original manual still in print? I tried looking on RealOEM for a PN but all they show is a CD.

I could just print out the PDF's but they don't look complete and some of the images scanned in almost black.

Unfortunately Bentley doesn't look like they ever mad a manual for these cars. Theirs are always top notch.

2 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

The channels that you refer too are only a inch or two long and the rest of the line is plastic tube, it might be possible to scrub the rust out with a wire test tube brush and the brush some por 15 or equivalent in with w q-tip or model paint brush. I don't think theirs anyway to tell if the tube is punctured with out taking it out having a look. 

I was referring to the "gutters" that bring the water to the drain holes.

One more thing - my drain channels are looking a little rusty. Is there a solution to sealing these back up? I assume it'd be almost impossible to paint inside the channel as it goes to the rear of the car.

Ok thanks for the tips guys. I'll just leave the crappy old ones on there for the meantime and make sure the channels and drains are clear.

Is there a way to tell if there's a puncture in the drain tube? I assume even if there's a tear most of the water would make it out the tube which would make it hard to tell there's a breach unless it's a total shear.

Are there any less expensive sunroof seal options? I only need them for a few months before the car goes to paint and they get torn off again. I'd like to not spend $100-120 for 2 seals I'm only going to use for a few months. 

4 hours ago, Teelinger said:

Nice Esty! 

 

Back to the original question, my guess is those are from a Jeep. 

We might have a winner...

I know they've been reupholstered so the seams being a little off doesn't surprise me.

No markings on the underside unfortunately. I took a look at Miata and Porsche seats. They're really close but both have a much more rounded headrest. The seats fold forward too which would lead me to believe they're from a coupe with a rear seat (not Miata).

9 minutes ago, Preyupy said:

Mike Ohara Service in Portland.  He has been working on 2002's since the early 70's.  I think he is still on Culver street. 

Thats exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks!

55 minutes ago, Tlambert said:

What they are is mugly, sorry the color is hideous!


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Leave my cars paint out of this

Sadly this was a Taiga on tan car originally. We'll get there...

I didn't title the thread, "look at my beautiful seats!" now did I?