Mucci

1 minute ago, Lorin said:

Why not just run a tire that is the correct size for the wheel ? Crazy idea, I know. 

That IS a good idea! Thanks for valuing the thing you wanted to say over the parameters of my question!! Your voice has been heard!

Do any reputable companies make a "small for it's size" 195/50?

That Accelera looks like a much more sport oriented tire but I have no idea who they are. Their company profile is "budget tires for cars and buses" and they've only been in business since '96. Anyone have experience with these?

I trust Cheng Shin but maannnn that Presa tread just screams Honda Odyssey. 

3 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

Not sure of this brand Accelera? Based in Indonesia. 

But I like the tread design. Looks like a summer tire to me. 

175/50/R15

Stolen from Amazon: $58

https://www.amazon.com/Accelera-Phi-Performance-Radial-Tire/dp/B076VKBLVH/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=175%2F50%2F15&qid=1587325327&sr=8-2

Right, those are the ones I'm seeing and have never heard of, along with "Presa" tires. They also make a 175/50-15 "all season".

Looks like they're Taiwanese and made by Cheng Shin Rubber, who I've actually heard of from the motorcycle world. Apparently they own Maxxis who makes some great moto tires. 

1 hour ago, Steven Hage said:

I use a 195/45/15 on my wheels and there isn't much of a stretch on the 15x7 but there's a baby stretch on the 15x8

Thanks Steve but I’m not sure how any of that info helps me. 

I’m looking to run a ____/50-15 tire on my 15x7 wheels. I need a little stretch for clearance but in the US it looks like the only options are a 195 or 165??? 
 

Does anyone stateside make an inbetween width with a 50 sidewall? The 165 would be way too narrow. I feel like a 185 or 175 would be great but when I search for these they’re not available in the US or are from a company I’ve never heard of.  

 Or is there a more narrow 195 that will stretch a bit on that wheel? The S-Drives arent stretched at all. 

Exactly what I was hoping to hear. No cutting. Thanks folks

I'm more concerned with keeping moisture out than if the underside of the car looks OEM. I'm saving a beater here not restoring for concourse

Just ordered a set of replacement front floor panels from Restoration Design. I see they're stamped for the big drain plugs but not cut out. I'm curious what the consensus is on cutting these out to function like OEM or to leave them as one clean sheet.

I live in Portland, OR where it's wet almost always. I'm concerned the moisture threat from under the car is higher than within the car. 

Plus, does anybody actually remove these plugs to periodically to drain liquid...?

46 minutes ago, dlhoovler said:

...attached to the end of a manual choke cable fed into the dash.

Would this be the phenolic spacer or is this just a basic spacer? Doesn't say anything about what material it is...

56 minutes ago, zinz said:

 

Does it have the thick, dark plastic spacer between the carb and manifold? ...that's the phenolic spacer I spoke about above.  You need one, with a paper gasket on top and bottom.

 

Ed

Nope it doesn't. Guess that explains why there's so much exposed thread on the studs...

Is the phenolic / bakelite spacer a better option than the aluminum or vice versus? 

54 minutes ago, Mike G said:

Did you have this problem before rebuilding the carb

Bought the car in rough shape so this is the first time I've been able to drive it around.

It's been between 45-60F here in Portland lately.

25 minutes ago, zinz said:

I've been quietly watching this thread. Toby describes the problem succinctly.

 

Having battled this in central Texas for many years, and with the advent of ethanol-laced fuel, the problem is paramount any time the ambient temps go above 85 F.  Long cranking and pedal at WOT using the Weber 32/36.  

 

I've tried many things, mostly to no avail.  You must use a phenolic spacer under the carb, but that only helps a little.  JimK told me of a guy who installed a small fan under the hood that pointed at the carb. It was set up to run after the car was shut off... it was either timed, or had a thermo-switch to shut it off. (I wonder if you were running the stock air cleaner thru the snorkel, if you could run a small fan to duct cool air to the carb after shutdown?) 

 

The problem as Toby describes, is that the carb sinks a lot of heat and the fuel "boils" out into the manifold... causing a flooding symptom.  Not good...

 

If you can buy non-ethanol fuel, try that and see if you get any relief.  

 

Perhaps someone can devise a better heat sink, carb spacer... an aluminum one with lots of cooling fins?

 

Ed

 

 

According to the engineer at Weber there's no such thing as non-ethanol pump gas regardless of what it's listed as. He said the inclusion of some percentage of ethanol is federally mandated for the purposes of resource conservation. 

btw the engineer I talked to came up with the sync-link. Really knowledgeable guy. I recommend everyone check in with him now and then

6 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Since flooring it starts it,

it's flooding. 

 

Fuel will evaporate from a hot carb, but in reasonable climates (i.e., NOT Sacramento in the summer) it takes a lot longer than

10 minutes for the bowl to dry out.  On my car, it was usually a few days, at least.

 

I had one carb that did this, and I stuck it on the shelf for diagnosis... and then they demo'ed the building, so maybe it's

floating in the Sound, now.  But there's an easy check to spot gross flooding-

 

get it nice and warm, then park it in your driveway.  Pull the air cleaner... and watch.  You'll want a flashlight, (not a match)

and maybe something to read.  What you're looking for is fuel puddling in the plenum of the manifold.  If the vapor pressure

of the fuel's overwhelming the float, you'll see it dribbling out of the venturi boosters (the things in the middle of the bore)

or down the wall of the carb where the booster meets it.

 

Another test is to get it to not start- do the 60 crank thing- and then pull the plugs.  If it's flooding, they'll

be wet with fuel.

 

It's worth fixing, as some of the liquid fuel gets into your oil every time it happens, and it washes the oil film

off the cylinder walls and piston skirts.

 

t

Good ideas Toby!

4 hours ago, Buckeye said:

Yes. What year is your car? you have picture on engine bay?

See jimk first reply in this post regarding how to test Fuel Return Valve

 

 

Ok sounds easy enough. Unfortunately this isn't really helping diagnose the original problem. I'm trying to think of a way to test what the actual issue issue without just replacing things piece by piece until something works. 

My car is a '75. I've removed the emissions said but the return valve is still there.  

I wonder if running a wideband 02 on a carbed motor would shed some light on what's going on at cranking. 

42 minutes ago, John76 said:

 

Couple of things to check:

-Float....brass or plastic?  If plastic, consider replacing with brass (pay attention to the float level setting for brass).

-Insulator block under the Weber?  Excess heat will cause the fuel in the bowl to dry-up in a hurry. Pressing the accelerator to the floor helps with a "hot start" by squirting any gas left in the accelerator pump diaphragm...which is less able to evaporate.

Floats are plastic. That info was relayed to the Weber engineer who gave me the above height spec. 

I'm not sure about the insulator block. Is this a block of aluminum spacer or more of a heat shield? I don't believe it has either... Pretty sure I mounted it straight to the manifold with a gasket. 

Can you explain how the electric pump would help in starting? Is this just because it builds pressure at key-on prior to cranking or does it have something to do with fuel return?

So now I'm hearing two opposite theories. Either the engine is flooding after a short ride or the bowl reserve is evaporating.

What's the best way to diagnose which one it is?

I probably cranked it over 60 times on my last errand run with zero sign of starting. Then tried the floor-it technique and it fired right up. I would think that much cranking would refill a dried up bowl no? I also only left the car for about 10min.

1 hour ago, Buckeye said:

 

Did this problem exists before rebuilding the carb?

item 03 will fix the issue once for all

I bought the car in rough shape so this is the first time I'm driving it.

Is item 3 the fuel return valve? Is there a way to check if this is working properly?

Yes, I had a chat with Weber and was told to set the floats 2-3 deg lower (into the bowl) than parallel to compensate for the buoyanncy difference of modern fuel vs. what there was in the 70's. 

Apparently the ethanol in fuel today causes the floats to be less buoyant and put less pressure on the needle valve. 

1 hour ago, Mike G said:

Is the choke stuck on? 

I don't believe so. However I do give the gas one to-the-floor pump before starting to set the choke if the car isn't warmed up fully yet. Maybe I shouldn't do this after short drives? It sounds like this is a flooding issue... Is that right?

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I floor mine every time I start it warm.  It has me trained that way.  It lets more air into the mix and can help with flooding, even though it seems backwards.

 

The car originally had a diverter valve in the fuel line, to bleed the pressure off between the pump and carb when the car is shut off and one theory is that flooding can occur if fuel bleeds past the needle to alleviate the pressure.  I use a Jeep fuel filter with two outlets between the pump and carb to serve that purpose, since the valve had been removed from my engine before I got it.

Search [ Jeep filter ] and you'll probably see a dozen posts where I've mentioned it.

( : search [ innova 5568 ] and you'll see two dozen posts where I've mentioned that  : )

Tom 

But you still floor it for warm starts? So it didn't fix it?

Just rebuilt the 32/36 on the car. Also put in new plugs, wires, and set the ignition timing to "split the Z ball".

Car starts right up when cold but if I take it for a 10 min errand it doesn't want to restart. It cranks and cranks without a hint of firing. I found that if I floor it and crank it will fire up.

Any ideas?

That's what the sender unit looks like?! God I love these cars. So simple. 
 

Will check and report back...

3 minutes ago, John76 said:

Half full or half empty??

I'll check later. I've reserved the third half of the day for car work.