Mucci

My 02's doors were sagging quite a bit when I got it. By loosening and adjusting the latch mechanism I was able to get both doors flush and aligned with the body crease. However in this state it takes a strong swing to close them and a hard push of the exterior button to open them. They seem to be under a lot of pressure in this state of alignment. What can I do to alleviate this?

Bam!

Run the power through this reverse box. Supports 500hp in forward gearing. 

49 minutes ago, Simeon said:

Interesting. I wonder if anyone has modified an Isetta?

 

edit: yes, yes they have. 

 

http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/epcp-1003-1957-bmw-isetta-300/

"In order to back out of this tight [parking] spot they wound a high-torque starter motor backwards, then welded it to the brake rotor and turned it down on the lathe so it would float between the calipers."

Hah! Electric reverse!

2 hours ago, solo 2 said:

This has been done with many cars, just do an internet search. While keeping the BMW theme might appeal to fans of the marque you're already modifying the crap out of it. Get yourself a Hyabusa engine to start with, 180 HP and 103 lb/ft of torque at 7K rpm right out of the box. Turbo kits are available up to 400HP I believe.

Wonder what the Busa's do about reverse...

You could do a K1300 motor instead I guess. 175hp 107tq.

The K100 just looks more period... 

2 hours ago, 69Bimmer02 said:

What sort of engine/transmission to driveshaft combination would even work in that configuration? You would have to machine the living daylights out of that I would imagine.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 

Doubt it'd be too crazy. The K bike is shaft driven already. Align the drivelines and make an adapter. Cake! 

2 hours ago, fetherston said:

No reverse and a sequential trans will get old real fast. Also you'll eat clutches and I'm not sure how the K100 engine would handle life in an upright configuration vs flat like on the bike.

Ahhh right, reverse 

The clutch issue I'm sure can be addressed. I doubt the RB bike with 300+hp was running a stock clutch.

Why upright the motor? Lower CG in it's current state and it'd still have gobs of room in the bay.

Can someone tell me why I shouldn't put a BMW K100 (motorcycle) motor in my 2002? I can't find a reason not to.

It's a 1L 4cyl motor, fuel injected ITB's, makes 90hp, revs to 8500rpm and weighs only 165lbs with trans. That's the same power as an M10 but half the weight and 2k more revs.

In addition to that RB Racing makes turbo kits for these and has squeezed 309hp out of one at 15psi.

2 hours ago, esty said:

i've dyed a lot of vinyl...as long as you don't clean it with lacquer thinner or other hash chemicals it will look good forever

 

provided you properly clean & prep the material

Great to hear, thanks Esty. This is going to be a piece by piece operation so it'd be much easier if I could dye some to match. 

Which dye company do you use?

I know it's possible to dye the interior but does anyone have any experience with the quality or longevity of doing that?

Thanks for the replys.

I'd like to find a full interior in the slightly darker tan color. I think it's considered the "early saddle color" according to this thread.

Early is on the left:

Is it difficult to track down interior parts in this color? I'm only finding the Gobi.

Would it be easier to dye the Gobi light Saddle?

I need everything but the drivers seats.

Can someone verify which interior color this is?

Unfortunately I don't have more photos and don't know the year.

How's the drivers front fender? Any bad rust or damage?

30 minutes ago, jfahuna said:

Have a good used pair with some door dings ,will not separate $400. delivered to a business.

 

Send me photos. Text to 5O8-9three2-1288 if that's easier.

Anyone know where I can get a swatch of the early (lighter) Saddle leather? I need to send it to an upholsterer. 

Thanks guys.

Anyone know the weight savings over the stock seats and belts?

Hi Esty,

Is this price just for the carpet or is the flat board like material behind included? What is that material? Is it structural enough that someone could sit on it in a pinch?

51 minutes ago, rstclark said:

Start with a good exterior inspection for rust   Not just surface rust on the body  but structural rust in the rear shock towers  the spare tire well. the side rails the pedal box under the brake fluid reservoir  front of the doors  front fenders  anywhere else you can find it  Floor pans etc.  Rust is the biggest issue  If it's too much,   get another shell before you sink too much money into the car

 

Surface rust on the body is not the end of the world  The interior is manageable too . The mechanics are not too difficult or expensive.  

 

Rust !!  Like Willy Nelson said "rust never sleeps"

Good point. Interior and mechanics can be in shambles and still easily swapped out. The chassis though...

I know the shock towers front and rear and spare tire well are good. I'll check out the other areas that aren't solved by replacement panels.

Picked up an '02 in rough shape visually. Mechanically it's pretty solid. It needs a full strip and paint on the exterior. The interior took on water and mold and needs to be gutted and replaced. I'll be doing all the work myself aside from spraying the car and upholstery.

I've been trying to rationalize which is better to tackle first, the exterior or the interior? I want to avoid ending up with a bare shell and a garage filled to the rafters with sandwich baggies. I build custom motorcycles in there so I need to be space conscious. I'd like to segment this restoration and tackle it one area at a time. I'm not looking to dump $30k into this, just clean it up to be a nice daily driver. Engine bay and interior will stay the stock paint.

What makes sense to take on first?

24 minutes ago, jgerock said:

Yes.

Put the "dry erase" smooth white side up so it does not absorb water.  Tip courtesy of Keith Kreeger's 74tii website www.my2002tii.com

Ah that's exactly what I was looking for! I found the section on Keith's site. For anyone else looking:

http://www.my2002tii.com/spring_2005/sunroof.htm

Thanks

I got one, thanks!

Oh ok, dry erase board? Thanks

6 minutes ago, jgerock said:

Look for the backer board. In the lumber section of Lowes or Home Depot. One piece will do two sunroof boards.

Is there another name for this? The stuff I'm looking at called backer board on the website is cement based / looks like sheetrock.

The roof of my car took on water at some point under the previous owner. I've since cleared out the drain channels. The cardboard in the roof is destroyed. I was wondering if anyone has cut out their own and what material they used? It's almost like MDF.

This is a '75 sunroof car.

Still in need of this part if someone has one.

Looking for a clean drivers front fender in the PNW / Portland area.