Djthom

@Maximillian  Any news on these including target price range?

I'm eagerly awaiting the price for these reproductions.  I've put my other rim refurbishment on hold pending the big reveal of the specifics

Original size for me also if there can only be one version.  Is there a timeframe for start of production?   I'm in the club that got burned by Frank Franker and had given up on finding period looking alloys...until now. 

Hi All. I have a set of steel wheels I want to refinish in the turbo color scheme.  Can anyone advise the paint codes?

I don't believe the W&N or other suppliers have the angled fitting for AC.  So if AC is in your plans double check that. 

So I had the pulley machined and pressed on.  The issue I have now is that if the timing belt teeth are aligned, properly, the AC pulley would be recessed into the front cover.  Is modification to the front cover required to fit an AC pulley (the actual front cover, not the plastic cover which I know you have to cut for belt to pass)   can someone post pictures of an AC pulley installed?

Great thanks.  I dropped the parts to a machinist.  The other issue is the 2002ad pulley has 7 thou interference fit which won't work.  Nothing is easy....

Thanks guys.  It does look like A side against the teeth. 

This pulley measures 16.5mm approx on average.  @Stevenc22is that what you get on your part?

I tried.  Ben just makes then and farms out the install so he didn't know but was going to look into it.  Bob at ICEAC didn't know either!   Surprising

Hi All

I got an AC pulley from 2002AD for use with my ICEAC kit.  I need to press this onto the hub. 

Can anyone tell me which side A or B goes towards the timing belt teeth and also how far to press it on?

The A side has a relief and chamfered edge which would help start it square on the shaft.  The B side has a sharp shoulder which would serve as a hard stop against the teeth.  So I'm not sure what the intent is here.  

Most of the recent posts are wheels going to customers.  Including Forest Koogle.  Would be nice to get his perspective on this. 

Still waiting also.  Bad timing for me.  Right before I sent the money I had done some searches and at that time there was nothing but glowing recommendations 

@Marsattacks could you please send me the info you have.   I couldn't seem to send you a PM.   Frank hasn't been online on FB messenger much recently making it impossible to keep picking him

I ams still waiting for my kleeblats

Napa replaced my EL13 and all works again fine.  They gave me 1 replacement only so I hope this works.   I had previously tried the EFL300.  I got the dash light flash and buzz sound when the hazards and turn signals were off.  Hazards and turn signals worked when engaged.  An earlier poster had a similar issue. 

Hi All

I did this upgrade using the EL13 and everything was working perfectly for 2 days.  Previously I had added grounds to the light housings and a ground to the instrument cluster.  Now, the flasher unit still clicks, but the "off" portion of the light flash is so short that its a barely perceivable flicker.  The lights basically look like they're on steady.  This is the case for both the hazard and turn signals.  I rechecked all my grounds.

Does this sound like a defective EL13?  An earlier post in this thread referenced the Napa LIT 263 flasher.  Is that a more reliable heavy duty version that might address this situation?
 

@Marsattacks could I get that info also?   I'm in the same boat.  The communication was sporadic up until August when he started ghosting me.   I'm still hopeful. 

Thanks for all the good suggestions.  I did actually bleed the system. I will work on these items.  I can get a donor rad and have it recored as well

Good idea.  Will also verify if gauge is reading off at the same time

Hi All

I have an issue with running hot at speed.  I've read as many threads as I could search for, but many are about running hot in extreme hot weather or in traffic.  I'm at 3 o'clock in traffic on even the hottest of days.

However, when I get cruising at 80 mph even when its just 70F out, it doesn't take but a few minutes for the temp gauge to come very close to touching red.  If I turn the heater on, I get a small decrease.  If I slow down to 60mph it doesn't take too long for the needle to start dropping back down to a normal range.  I want to add AC to the car, but want this issue ironed out first.  At this point, all the potential items to try are getting to be pretty expensive experiments.

Things I've done/checked: 

1)  Timing, I'm exactly on and it runs awesome

2)  Freshly rebuilt engine and had all the galleries cleaned and boiled out in the process

3)  Gauge cluster has an extra ground wire

Things I've read about on the forum:

1)  Tropical fan and/or shroud.  Will this have any effect at speed, or is this more of a fix for slow traffic driving?

2)  Triple core rad - seems Ingraham rads are no longer being made by Curt's successor, but I have seen where some members have gone to rad shops to have this done. 

3) W&N High Performance Radiator - I eventually want to put AC in the car and this option is pretty expensive to try as an experiment.

4) Aluminum rad - i assume i lose the ability to run the fan with these thicker options.  I'd prefer to stay with the original appearance.

5) Thermostat - using a lower temp thermostat.  again, i'm not sure how that will impact my situation

any suggestions or other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Darren

I've been watching this thread as I'm also waiting on my set of kleeblats. Will update when I see them....

Th*nks Steve.  Another wrinkle is I intend to put AC in the car and need the angled lower outlet.  The WN HD rad has a straight outlet 

Hi All

Are these rads still being produced?   All the threads on the topic are nearly as 10 years old.  I've emailed Mark at the addresses in the threads

If not, what is the current "best option" for improved cooling?   Some suppliers have "high performance" options on their sites 

You can also get the Sport S seats here:

https://m.mrfiat.com/german/porsche/911-912-65-73/interior/porsche-911-sport-s-model-sport-seat-beige-leather-houndstooth.html

This style of seat was optional in longhood Porsches and originals are expensive.  I got mne from this vendor because I deemed them a closer match to the originals.  They can be fitted with a flip base to allow access to rear seat.  Not sure that base would fit in an 02 without raising the seat too high.  

While fixing an oil pump issue I found the remnants of 2 valve seals in my oil pan (2 small retainer springs and bits of green seal). This is on a newly rebuilt head and I dont feel like pulling apart just as driving season starts if I don't have to.  Besides some smoke, is there any issue with waiting?   My 911 doesn't have exhaust valve seals, the builder I used there leaves them out for longevity.  Smokes on startup but clears up quick enough.