Djthom

Thanks guys.  Car has VIN stamp, under hood VIN plate and steering column VIN plate.  Also numbers matching so engine stamping too

Hi All

In the process of selling my car, some prospective buyers have asked me about registering a 1973 tii in California.  Is it exempt from smog?  Besides the ownership/title staying it is a 73 and then email from BMW stating its build date, is there any other formal documentation required to get exempt?

Maybe someday I will be lucky enough to be registering all my cars in the sunshine 

Thanks. 

Darren

Thanks.  I fixed my 74 yesterday so I'm not distracted with that task 

All fixed with 65psi at idle.  I believe the incorrectly installed oring was the root cause in the end.  I lost a few weeks of driving but I'm glad it happened when it did and now I have new gaskets on the front of the engine and the pan. 

If you're reading this please use it as a reminder to make sure your check oil light bulb is working and not burnt out

Hi Mike, I did crack the fitting to see if any oil was there but nothing.

I think I know what happened.  The bent oil pan baffle and missing bolt on the pickup hanger of the oil pump suggests the PO had it apart before.  I didnt have to raise the engine to get the sump off.  

The o ring on the little pipe had some telltale indentations that look like it was pinched.  I think they may have put the o ring in the body of the pump rather than on the pipe when last installed.  

I opened and cleaned the  pump.  Resealed it.  Made an adapter to spin the rotor with my drill and its pumping oil.

So I'm going to assume it was the oring incorrectly installed which gave way and put back together when I get my gasket set.  

Hi All

Selling my 73tii on BaT.  I also have a blog of the restoration on the forum. 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-bmw-2002tii-24/

Yes for sure.  Got to love the "while its apart... ." trail.  But that's part of the fun of having vintage machines 

Thanks Hans.  I will look at that o ring also.  I took the front covers off to see if there was any type of internal oil leak inside the timing chest.  The car had sat for awhile. I bought a new filter thinking some sludge might have worked loose and blocked the old one.  

Are those o rings standard sizes that I can pick up at a local hose and hydraulic shop or do i have to order from part supplier?

HI All

I have a 74 that I've been using for months as a daily driver.  The other day I started it and the oil light was on.  I know it wasn't on the night before because I was watching the fuel gauge on my way home.  I put my oil pressure gauge on and confirmed no oil pressure.   No oil leaks or oil in the coolant.  

Since then I've pulled the pan, taken off the oil pump.  Everything seems fine including the relief valve.  The only thing I noticed was the o ring in the bypass tube was unseated.  But that might have happened as I took it down.  

Has anyone had a similar issue?  With no smoking gun I'm reluctant to just put it back together and repeat.

I saw a car with the 3M applied at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix last summer.  It did look amazing.  This is for my 73tii so I want to keep it original but for my 74 I'm planning on trying the 3M approach 

I found the new trunklid pieces to fit ok but the hood corners aren't great.  I haven't spent a lot of time trying to fit them since I needed the nose piece on first

Hi All

I was wondering if anyone has had their beltline trim repaired.  I've put new trim on my car with the exception of the nose and passenger door.  Those 2 pieces have been out of stock everywhere I've looked for over 6 months and there is no clarity if or when they will be available again..  The ones I have are lightly dented, not the worst I've seen.  I sent pics to King of Trim to see if they could do anything with them, but wanted to check and see if anyone here has any experience.

Thanks

Darren

Thanks all.  I will try to make one on the lathe and see how that works.  If not, I will go through Home Depot

Hi All

I have my tii clock but am missing the sleeve (62131350167) and hardware to mount.  I haven't seen any reproduction or availability on the sleeve.  Is there a source for this part?  Has anyone had to make one that could post pictures?  Its Number 7 in the diagram.

Thanks!

Darren

I wanted to revive this topic.  Is there a brand of aluminum rad that can be used with the mechanical fan?  I see the Champion brand (both 2 and 3 rads specifically state they can't be used with the mechanical fan.  Other brands like GPI don't specify either way.

Beautiful thanks 

I found this older thread and am also interested in seeing pictures if anyone has done this 

Thanks!

I have the same question for my stock 73tii front sway bar.  Lost my phone and pictures, and this detail is not clearly shown in the parts or service manuals.  Could someone confirm for me which way this goes? 

on closer examination it looks like the 2nd diagram in the picture above matches what I have.  Are there no wires on the vertical terminals? Just the horizontals are marked

Does someone have a wire diagram like those above but for this fusebox?  I lost my phone that had the photos I took while taking it apart.

Hello.  I noticed that you put this A pillar vinyl on before the headliner.  If I look at my old pieces that appears to be the way they were.  But I have read elsewhere on the forum that you put them on after the headliner.  Can someone clarify the correct order for me?

Thanks all.  I did have a seam open up and had it sewn locally.  When I came out this morning the C Pillar piece had detached on its own from being in tension overnight.   So I guess it made the decision for me on whether I was doing surgery or not.  W&N offered a refund and as stated above are no longer selling them. 

...then I investigated Harold's suggestion and found the rear panels are about 2 inches different than the original.  I just measured from where the panel meets the side of the headliner to the rear attachment.   That's got to be my problem here.

I tried the C Pillar approach with the rear bar in that cardboard groove.  No dice because the forward bars won't orient correctly.  With the rear bar where I had it previously I get mega bunching in the corners