Djthom

Hi All.  I also need some help with this question.  Can someone post the correct o-ring size and specification?  Its not in the parts manual and the dealer says there is only stock in Germany and they don't have data on the size either.    I had pull off the oil pump due to low pressure at idle.  The o-ring in there was replaced last year as part of using the gasket kit from WN, but upon examination appears to not be exactly correct.  The o-ring from the kit seems slightly over sized and seems to be kinking from being bunched up

Hi All.   When installing the pump, is it best practice to seat the o-ring down fully in the pump body or on the recess of the pickup  tube?  I've previously had a pinched o-ring that caused loss of pressure.  I reinstalled it by setting on the tube in that instance but wondered about the consensus here. 

Thanks

Darren

Does anyone know how much shimming is too much?  At some point the o-ring won't stay in place and seal. 

Received the chain from the ebay link above.  Turns out it is identical to the wider one I have, and it does not have a split link per the picture.  I called Ireland.  The only option i have is to get the later style pump which is basically an engine teardown to get the old chain off and new one on.

I will try some side to side momentum to see.  It's still there even with engine off coasting down a hill which rules out exhaust as I had thought of that too.  There is a bit of rotational slop in one of the half shafts. 

I've had the car for a couple years.  During that time it's been off the road quite a bit as I had the engine out for a full rebuild so I haven't put a lot of miles on since then.  I did change the diff and tranny oil with Redline. I also replaced all the rear bushings thinking it could just be drivetrain vibration transmission.  Previous owner put new springs and bilstiens on. 

 I'm wondering if it's tires.  I'm waiting on a set of kleeblats to arrive and will get new tires to eliminate that variable too.  

Hi All

I have a noise that sounds like a worn bearing or droning when I get up to 35mph and above that sounds like it's coming from the rear.   I've run the car on jackstands and used a listening rod on all the diff/wheel bearings and giubo and nothing sounds like a problem, but the car isn't under load in that configuration.   One side does feel like there is wear on the CV splines. Could this cause the issue?   This issue is driving me crazy with no root cause being apparent.  Any suggestions would be appreciated. 

Thanks

Darren

I believe so.  Will have to measure it all when I take apart.  Just what I needed in time for spring

2 or 3 shims.  It was the original pump so going to check that also.  20w50 liqui moly classic oil. 

I have an issue with oil light on at idle when temperature reaches normal range on a freshly built engine.  I think I may have shifted too much already such that the o ring isn't seated.  Haven't taken it apart yet.  But if that's the issue I need a tighter chain

Found on eBay Oil Pump Chain N969RK for 2002 1602 2002tii 318i 320i 1976 1967 1968 1969 1970.  Is this going to work or is this a shot in the dark?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-Chain-N969RK-for-2002-1602-2002tii-318i-320i-1976-1967-1968-1969-1970/183806267986

Does anyone know what brand/part number is correct for removable link oil pump chain, including being the correct width?   When I rebuilt my engine I ordered a new chain but the incorrect S14 one was sent.  The original chain seemed ok so I reused and now I have an oil pressure issue I need to resolve and want to do the chain while I'm in there.  

As expected problem came back. Checked all the grounds.  Fortunately I had a spare flasher unit so I swapped it in and problem instantly gone and hasn't come back.  Just wanted to close the loop for future searchers on this issue.  I think the fact it was happening on both sides and hazards was the giveaway. 

This issue resolved itself.  Which means it's still lurking.  I will check the bulbs and report back if a root cause presents itself 

Hi all. I have this issue as well all of a sudden.   Both left or right and hazards. `would this be flasher unit since its happening on both sides independent of each other?

Thanks guys, appreciate the input on this

Hi All

I apologize in advance for yet another wheel offset question but I wasn't able to find in archives.  

Will a 6x13" ET28 wheel fit a narrow body tii without rolling lips or otherwise rubbing?

I often have passengers and gear for car events, and the PO installed lower springs so I want to err on the side of caution before moving forward

Thanks

Darren

Hi All   I have this problem occasionally on my rear belts which is a problem because I'm always transporting kids.  Seems with time and driving they come unlocked again.  Is there a trick for the rears?

Perfect thanks

I've searched but bot been able to find the diameter of the door hinge pins.  I'd like to make and have some on hand before I attempt to repair my hinges.  Could someone confirm the diameter?  This is for door hinge not brake 

Thanks guys.  I did mark the flywheel and paint the black and white method to see it more clearly.  

I asked the question because the car wasn't running right.  Didn't want to rev and was sluggish. 

Turns out the distributor advance mechanism was stuck and thus timing was off through range.  Fixed that and all is well. 

Hi All

 got an aluminum flywheel from IE for my rebuild.  The new flywheel had no timing marks on it.  I laid it over top of the old flywheel and used the bolts to lock them together taking note of the dowel position.  I then used a square to scribe a mark on the ball location so I can time it using the regular belhousing window method.  

My question is whether or not the ball location on the flywheel changed between years on the 02 or tii.  The flywheel I have and used as reference was a 74tii flywheel.  Did BMW ever change the ball location to retard timing for emissions or anything in the later years?

Reason I asked is that with the timing set at 2400 RPM and my mark in the flywheel timing window, the front cover timing marks I painted white are closer to TDC than 25 advance.  

Thanks

Darren

Hi Guys.  Bumping an old thread.  Just got my tii back on the road.  Is there a FB/instagream/other means of this group communicating?  Would be nice to be in the loop on what's going on locally 

Hi guys.  I pulled the pilot bearing out of a 74tii crank.  It's a sealed bearing but had the 2 sealing caps and felt ring.  

Would this have been the factory setup?  Or did a PO change the bearing to a sealed type and just put the dust covers back in?

From what I've read on the forum I believe if you use the sealed bearing the covers and felt aren't necessary.  Could I get confirmation on that?

Thanks

Darren

Quarter inch aluminum with compound bends for strength.   Grade 8 carriage bolts right through the original tracks to hold it on.  Small wood wedge at the front as a guide to not roll off the end. No issues for tii or MG but the 911 clearance required a platform runners between the ramps and the tracks.  I made those by gluing up some Dow insulation boards that are light weight and easy to store