Djthom

If you have room, consider turning a 4 post lift sideways and having some new ramps fabricated.  I had mine made out of aluminum.  It does reduce how much work you can do from below but let's you fit more cars! (That's another 73tii up top under the cover)

I would recommend Liqui-Moly classic. It's available from Pelican or other places online. Another good option is the Driven oils which are the continuation of the old high zinc Brad Penn oils.  (PennGrade is supposedly the rebranding of Brad Penn but the formula changed as detailed on various porsche sites including LN Engineering).  

I used to use VR-1 but have moved away from it after someone pointed out it's a racing oil and meant to be changed after each race.  Supposedly it lacks some of the moisture scavengers and other ingredients that are needed in a longer term oil.  

Yes VTO do a replica I believe.  I like the black centres as well.  Nice contrast with your body color 

Hello.  Looking for especially Kleeblatts but would also consider period correct rims.  ATS, OEM FPS, cromodora, etc 

I had some dented and scratched pieces restored by King of trim.  You might inquire there since you have the originals.   I had my nose and the passenger door pieces redone since the repros were out of stock everywhere when I was finishing my car.   The restored pieces matched perfectly 

Hi All.   Just wondering if JSO5000 or anyone else ever finished their Mini wheel modifications and have the optimal ET and width sorted out.  

Thanks

Bumping an older thread.  If you're at home and looking for a project to do on your car, I implore you to fix a faulty or burnt out oil pressure light if you have that issue.  A working light saved me from catastrophe. 

I hope they make a serious effort to remanufacture parts.  I was shocked when I entered the 02 world on how poor the selection of remanufactured parts is.   By comparison in the British car world you can nearly build an entire MGB or Triumph out of new parts.   I know original and NOS are always best, but when you need something you're stuck.  Recently I needed a tii kugelfisher toothed pulley and my only option was to luckily find a used one. 

I've parched them.  If you take the cover off and turn over, clean the backside as there is a lot of decomposed stuffing stick on and then contact cement a large wide  patch of similar color vinyl.   I put a piece of duct tape on the front face of the cover to hold both sides of the crack perfectly in place while working on the backside.  After the glue dries, have someone run a stitch line down the adjacent seams in the cover hence the wide patch.  You don't want it reopening when stretching over new foam which is a good idea to install while it's apart.  

I measured the dome height of the piano. It's around 4.5mm.  The previous owner told me today he had driven the car like this over 4 years estimate 7000 miles.   I don't understand why I don't have any signs of contact. All the threads I've found on the FAQ state this combo won't work.  

Is it possible they put a different crank into this frankenengine?  Could I tell by just measuring the stroke?  I'm not ready to pull the bottom end

Thanks everyone for your input.  On this car  prioritizing best head over originality.  I will keep the other head as a spare.  

The car is going to be my 3 season go anywhere driver.  So reliability and longevity are critical.  

I just want to strip off the "compromises" the engineers were making to comply with the emissions regulations of the day and get to the purest design intent.  

Here are the photos.  I took engine apart due to leak in front cover but was otherwise seemingly running fine.  

I'm dealing with Frankenmotor here.  I have the original block and will do a full optimal build  but I'd like this current engine to keep going until I get some other projects completed 

Hi All

I am about to rebuild my 73tii engine and have a 121 and E12 head to pick from.  I plan on getting new pistons and going up to 10:1 compression.  

Which one should I choose?   I've searched and read other posts on this question  but from what I found they weren't tii specific and/or didnt consider a concurrent optimal choice of pistons. 

Thanks

Darren

I recently purchased a 73tii and pulled the head today.  I was very surprised to see it had  121 head with Piano top pistons.   Doesn't look like any modifications have been done.  The engine block, injection pump and plenum are from a 74 so this can't be the original head.  I dont see any signs of conflict 

Maybe as echappe suggested above there were 2 types of Piano top pistons?

I have the original engine to rebuild but need this one to last me a bit longer. S

Thanks.  Ive done some more reading and that appears to be the case.  I probably have V6 rather than V7 cone.   

My plan was to rebuild to a stock euro configuration with the higher compression pistons.  I wonder how much impact the cone difference would have under those conditions 

Hi All

My 73tii has a 74tii engine installed.  I have the original stripped long block missing all of its tii parts.  I am planning to rebuild the original engine and use the tii parts from the 74tii engine.  

My question is around the injection pump.  It's tag number is PL04-124.02 which corresponds to a 74 pump per lists on the forum.   In James Taylor's Restoration Reference on page 131 he states the Model 74 cars had a different injection pump than earlier types.  

Are there in fact significant differences?  Did they all use the V7 control cones?   If I rebuild my 73 engine with the higher compression Euro pistons will I be OK running this 74 pump?

Many thanks

Darren

Hi All.  My car has a replacement 1974 tii engine 2781974 installed.  I'm fortunate to have the original engine that I'm going to rebuild and install.  Just posting in case someone down the road is looking for their lost matching engine....

Is Pierre still making these?  Some of the old threads don't work and the links to his former website don't either.  Is there any updated contact info?

What were the original pads made of?  Mine got a bit hot today and were smoking a bit.  I assume that was just years of oil burning off but I'm wondering what else I might have been breathing. Did they contain asbestos?

Could someone post the dimensions of the warm up regulator come retainer tool so I can make one?  I've already made the others as indicated above and saved the big bucks.  

The synchros turned out to be ok well within spec.  But the rear flange nut was loose.  By tightening it, I could see the engagement with 2nd gear was improved.  All back together and works great.  I wish I had taken the advice in a couple of these posts and checked that nut before I took gearbox out and tore it apart. 

Yes I have.  Actually initially I removed that and thought the problem went away for a few minutes but it returned sadly.  Wouldnt that have been a sweet fix!

Hi All

I have an issue where the gearbox jumps out of 2nd gear but only on deceleration and only when the oil gets hot.  I have Redline MTL oil and all of the shift linkage and gearbox mount bushings are new.  It does not crunch either up shifting or down shifting normally, but when it falls out of gear and I try to engage 2nd I do often get a crunch.

This has been discussed before in various ways and I've read all those posts but was wondering if the hot oil only condition might narrow down what I need to do.  Synchro, shift fork, other?

Thanks for the help 

Darren

Thanks.  I think it's more than reasonable price.  I need to thin the herd. I'm going to miss it.  So enjoyable to have a daily driver classic!

Selling my 74 only because I found a 73tii.   Good solid reliable driver.  Some corrosion in rockers and rear wheel wells.  No reserve auction 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254333893913