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D.martijn

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  1. D.martijn
    Before going ahead and removing the old door skins on the doors, we wanted to fit the fenders. However, we bought some repro's at the start of our restoration but as most of you know, the quality of these it pretty poor. So we set out to find some reasonably priced genuine fenders. Took some searching but I was able to source two NOS fenders, from an old production run. After 1660km of driving we arrived back home with our find. The guy selling these as a real enthusiast, he even worked together with Schnitzer to make replica E9 race cars He also has this.. not registered since 1980!! I gave one panel a very quick test fit and am very pleased! We definitely made the right call to buy some original sheet metal
  2. D.martijn
    Finally got the rain scuttle welded in. We first spot-welded the newly made firewall isolation clips into their place. I got the old ones of by using the power file which made quick and easy work of this. Glad I remade these in the correct gauge/thickness. Also test fitted an old rubberdrain hose to check the oval hole that needed to be remade in the middle. On to the next job!
  3. D.martijn
    Finally got the rain scuttle spot-welded in. We first spot-welded the newly made firewall isolation clips into their place. I got the old ones of by using the power file which made quick and easy work of this. Glad I remade these in the correct gauge/thickness. Also test fitted an old rubberdrain hose to check the oval hole that needed to be remade in the middle. On to the next job!
  4. D.martijn
    This week I received the reproduction doorskins from Jaymic in th UK. Very pleased with the result, however the pocket for the door handle could have been formed a little bit better. I'm not sure if I'll leave it like this or cut out the original section from the old skins, any suggestions/input? I also planished the rain tray a little more, added the original wiring clips back. (After talking to a 02 owner in Belgium, he send me pictures of his rain tray and on this the same clips are used like I'm making at the moment.) On mine they are a little narrower + longer. First I spot welded the speed nuts plates on the back, these are used to fix the hinge plate for the throttle on the carb. Carefully removed the paint and added some weld thru primer where the clips need to be spotwelded On the back side of the rain tray (the side facing the firewall) there is some small step between the original piece and the repair panel I welded in. This is mainly because of the thickness of the plates. However, I remembered taking of the original sound deadning and turns out it'll cover this step. It's hard to see on photo though I also prepared the underside of the hood latch panel with weld through primer where I need to spotweld the panels together.
  5. D.martijn
    This week I received the reproduction doorskins from Jaymic in th UK. Very pleased with the result, however the pocket for the door handle could have been formed a little bit better. I'm not sure if I'll leave it like this or cut out the original section from the old skins, any suggestions/input? I also planished the rain tray a little more, added the original wiring clips back. (After talking to a 02 owner in Belgium, he send me pictures of his rain tray and on this the same clips are used like I'm making at the moment.) On mine they are a little narrower + longer. First I spot welded the speed nuts plates on the back, these are used to fix the hinge plate for the throttle on the carb. Carefully removed the paint and added some weld thru primer where the clips need to be spotwelded On the back side of the rain tray (the side facing the firewall) there is some small step between the original piece and the repair panel I welded in. This is mainly because of the thickness of the plates. However, I remembered taking of the original sound deadning and turns out it'll cover this step. It's hard to see on photo though I also prepared the underside of the hood latch panel with weld through primer where I need to spotweld the panels together.
  6. D.martijn
    I know this will sound random, but I managed to find (to me at least) most accurate picture of the splatter finish. On this photo stock website..... if only there was a way to contact this person and ask how he managed to get this finish. lol https://nl.123rf.com/photo_80091499_black-texture-paint-rough-grunge-seamless-background-abstract-black-background-texture.html
  7. D.martijn
    I'm currently also in the process (for a while now) trying to figure out the best way to achieve this finish. I got my hinges already put in black satin paint. I tried using some kind of "sand" paint, which makes up for the smaller spots/drops I just need to find a way to get consistent small, shinier dots/splatters on top of this coat. I've tried a paint brush and flicking it but I get some bigger splatters that are too big.
  8. D.martijn
    In preparation to welding in the repaired rain tray, we decided to sandblast the underside of the window sill & the hood latch panel. I just need to replace the old isolation pad clips with some new ones I made up. I am now selling these as well if you're interested. A wile back I made some new shims for the steering box, while going through the blue books again, I noticed that the bearings need a specific friction. I converted the numbers and it should have 0,1 - 0,24Nm of friction. I decided to look for a small torque screwdriver, after telling a co worker. He pointed out we had one at work! Interval of 0,05Nm, should be accurate enough for the steering box. I also ordered new full door skins from Jaymic, I'm curious on how they will look/fitt. Pictures looked promising!
  9. D.martijn
    Last weekend I finished up the new isolation pad clips for the engine bay, only think left was making the chamfered corners I printed a little jig to get a nice consistent 45° chamfer, I went back to work and used he disc sander I've made some then enough claps so it you also need some, send me a pm! In preparation to welding in the repaired raintray, we decided to sandblast the underside of the window sill & the hood latch panel. Turned out great A wile back I made some new shims for the steering box, while going through the blue books again, I noticed that the bearing need a specific friction. I converted the numbers and it should have 0,1 - 0,24Nm of friction. I decided to get a small torque screwdriver, after telling a co worker. He pointed out we had one at work! Interval of 0,05Nm, should be accurate enough for the steering box. I also ordered new full door skins from Jaymic, I'm curious on how they will look/fitt. Pictures looked promising!
  10. D.martijn
    My local replating company told me the bolts can be rusty, greasy etc. only paint needs to be remove prior to replating them. I guess they strip them with some sort of acid..
  11. D.martijn
    upper seal 51711804576, try contacting stefan_ries@gmx.de I bought one from him for 50€ a couple years ago. the rubber strip 51121815754 for the bumper is available again after beaing NLA for a long time. I bought one a while ago and it looks pretty good. Havent tried it as I'm still restoring/refurbishing parts for my touring. https://www.leebmann24.de/stossleiste-51121815754.html
  12. D.martijn
    check you pm
  13. D.martijn
    Hi, Total should come down to 19.5€ including shipping to Miami for the wiring clips.
  14. D.martijn
    I'll take a couple pictures of them on my sunroof frame when I'm back at my workshop. As I've stated I sold over 50 sets, some of them on the 02faq and got very good feedback. Shipping to the US would be 5.3€
  15. D.martijn
    I've been making more and more reproduction/repair parts for the restoration on my 2002 Touring that some of you are following. I've been asked if I could sell some of these parts so I decided to make a thread where I list everything I've made so far. Shipping not included 1. Golde sunroof guide plates.Made from the same material as the original plates. There are an exact copy of the originals and fit great. I've sold more than 50 pieces and had great feedback!35€/set 2. Seat hinges - washer plate.When restoring the hinges of your seats to re-zinc plate the hardware of the tilting mechanism. You will discover that there are big washers that sit between the two hinge halves, these act as bearing surfaces and tend to wear / age. This is a replacement for this washer.5€/set of 4 3. Engine compartment isolation pad/wiring clips A replacement clip that's an exact copy as the original clips. After 40+ years some of the original clips are sheared off or are about to.12,5€ for 10 clips (This is enough to do the engine side of the fire wall + the clips on the floor for the wiring loom to the reverse switch on the transmission)1,5€/piece 4. Raintray/gutter repair panelRepair panel that has a new indentation pressed to repair your original raintray. These tend to rust out when leaves, dirt and water block the drain tubes. Made from 0.8mm zincor sheet10€/panel (~15cm wide, ~4cm material from pressed form up) Coming soon depending request/interest:5. Steering box shims The original shims on the steering box have a tendency to rust out and cause the adjustment of the preload to be out of wack and leak oil.5€/shim (available in 0,1- 0,12 - 0,15 - 0,2 - 0,3mm) 6. Oilpump shimsNew oilpump shims made from 0,2 and 0,3mm thick shim stock, same size as the originals. 8€/shimOpen for other suggestions on parts that could be made.I have access to plenty of machines/measuring devices.
  16. D.martijn
    Friday evening I went back to work and got the raintray/gutter sandlbasted as some slight surface rust was forming. After blasting I also gave it a coat of Corroless. I still need to make the oval hole for the hose to fit through but will do this once the paint is dry. We also figured out a way to re assemble the hinges for the seats. We had taken them apart to zinc plate the inside mechanism. And old spare hinge was used to make a holder and tool to "repack" the big spring inside. Only thing left is finishing the splatter paint texture on the hinges.
  17. D.martijn
    Some of you might remember I made new wiring clips for the engine compartment a while ago by hand. I used 0.8mm sheet metal on those. However, thinking about it, they are pretty stiff to bend. so I decided to try and make a small die after the good succes of my rain tray/gutter die. I first started but measuring an original clip and modeling as close as possible in solidworks. After bumping onto a couple of videos on Youtube about 3D printed dies, this looked like the perfect test piece. First mold printed, I later on changed the design to center the sheet metal strip. I'm not sure how many clips I've made but the dies held up fine And a little video of it in action (click on the image) If you would be interested in a set of these, feel free to message me! I have plenty of material left to make some more.
  18. D.martijn
    Some of you might remember I made new wiring clips for the engine compartment a while ago by hand. I used 0.8mm sheet metal on those. However, thinking about it, they are pretty stiff to bend. so I decided to try and make a small die after the good succes of my rain tray/gutter die. I first started but measuring an original clip and modeling as close as possible in solidworks. After bumping onto a couple of videos on Youtube about 3D printed dies, this looked like the perfect test piece. First mold printed, I later on changed the design to center the sheet metal strip. I'm not sure how many clips I've made but the dies held up fine And a little video of it in action (click on the image) If you would be interested in a set of these, feel free to message me! I have plenty of material left to make some more.
  19. D.martijn
    We're looking into purchasing a scanner at work that can go up to 0.003mm. as you can imagine, the file size will be huge. After scanning you will still need to clean up the model to make it more "usable"
  20. D.martijn
    One could also 3D print a die instead of interior/exterior parts ? I changed the design so I can center the steel sheet before pressing - it's currently printing as I'm writing this. But I'm pretty pleased on how this piece turned out!
  21. D.martijn
    Thanks! I'm glad it's finally finished. I'll get it sandblasted (hopefully) this week at work. Yeah, a colleague also suggested this, so the metal is clamped and has to stretch instead of now going where it want to go.. I do have another die in the works for the cable clips I made some while ago. (the original ones are 0.5mm and I made them in 0.8mm ut I feel like they are a bit too stiff) I spiraled down the youtube rabbit hole and found out it's possible to 3D print the dies. So expect some further updates on those
  22. D.martijn
    Has anyone done this yet? I just stumbled onto this thread. I also disassembled the hinges completely to get everything plated and the hinges themselves painted. (stil need to add the splatter paint effect)
  23. D.martijn
    Last time I posted I made these two dies on the milling machine at work, the first test result was pretty good. But the radius got messed up a bit. I decided to try and sort it out with some hammer and more forming work. After making a new panel, I got it welded in. Pretty happy with the result. If anyone ever needs to repair this section of their raintray... send me a PM.
  24. D.martijn
    It's been a while but yet another update.. Son after asking around at work, a collegue suggested a local fabrication shop where he knew the owner. Maybe he could give me some tips on what I could change to get a better result for the indentation, mainly the radius. He told me if I wanted to have it done 100% correct, I should make a full mold/die where the whole shape get pressed at once. Since I only need one of these that idea got turned down. He also told me to just cut the piece I formed out and weld it in a other shaped panel. While I was there he put the panel I had already formed in his press to see if we could get is a bit more straight. After going back home, I decided to just try and get the radius formed some more with a hamer and chisel. I managed to get it pretty good. Since I stamped two forms in this one, I needed another bent panel so after work I made two this time. just to be sure This Saturday, we started on (finally) repairing the raintray. While looking at the panels, I decided it might be easier to just cut the panel in two anyway.. This way I din't have to worry about getting the two bends in the right place at once. (I'm not sure how to call it, a support?) First section welded in, next one clamped And finished, turned out pretty good. Might need a small bit of filler but I think I can get it pretty close by hammer and dollying it some more.
  25. D.martijn
    Yeah, as you mentioned yourself, who says the frame rails are stamped as they should? Obviously the front subframe points need to be correct but the rest is not very important measurement wise. Like others suggested, try pushing the frame rails up with a jack or even some long metal screws and go from there.
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