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D.martijn

Solex
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Everything posted by D.martijn

  1. This weekend we made some more progress on the rear subframe mount / inner rocker. Before removing part of the outer sill that was still left and the remaining inner sill we braced the car a little more Before fully removing the inner sill we decided to first weld in the subframe mount for good. Using the large arms on the spot welder we were able to weld the point to the floor From the inside Finally I stitchwelded the subframe mount to the floor, I decided to tack weld instead of laying a full line down since the floor is pretty thin anyway Mount removed, the jig is still able to come off very easily + measuring diagonally from the front subframe points, both measurement are identical My phone battery ran out so I don't have any more pictures of the removal of the inner sill. There was some surface rust on the flange of the floor but that was cleaned up. the little section of B pillar that runs through the sill is also still in very good condition, only the lower flange that's welded onto the outer still it rusty so that will get replaced as well. Little "fact" the sills that BMW sells aren't correct the bigger flange should be on the bottom of the sill
  2. A couple of pictures tell more than words right? Flange of the floor spotwelded on to the inner rocker Inner rocker with the A pillar removed, the inner rocker is also spotwelded on to the inner A pillar panel Underside, inner rocker and floor are stitch welded at the underside where the seat brackets are A pillar is then welded on again. After this the outer rocker it welded on the flanges of the inner rocker and A pillar. On the rear of the car the outer quarter panel sits over the outer rocker (that's the seam that you see at the lower corner of the B pillar) I'm not that far yet as I'm still repairing the rear subframe mount. Seeing how bad your rockers are, I think those might need some attention as wel.. This was the inside of mine
  3. It's been a while since I last updated this thread.. We finally settled in completely in the new workshop, last big upgrade was lighting and we also painted the side walls white. I also found a NOS rear tail gate panel for the touring (quite cheap too) in Bulgaria And welded up the newly made panel for the rear left subframe/floor However I wasn't quite satisfied with the reinforcement rib around the hole. So I decided to adjust the 3D printed die and press a new plate, we then later on welded this new section into the new patch panel.. Looks a lot crispier Since welding in this new hole, the rear most flange got trimmed off as well and a new one was welded on. With the help of the shrinker/stretcher the flange was given it's fine shape before welding on Next up was trimming down the flange to it's original shape And finally the mounting point for the subframe itself got stitch welded as well. (just the two plates and the newly made centering bushing) Next weekend we'll probably weld the whole assembly onto the floor
  4. Yeah it's pretty cool technology for sure! It's slow to watch as well
  5. Made a couple of sets of steering box shims for a fellow FAQ member. I'm able to use the machines at my work (Injection mould repair/job shop) after hours ? These are cut from Stainless steel shim stock (0,1 upto 0,3mm) with the Wire EDM machine
  6. I know we haven't posted an update in a while but we had a much biggern job the last couple of months. The space where we rented our workshop got sold to a neighboring company thus we needed to move. We decided to buy an other space, we already moved everything, got the storage mezzanine up and started ordening some of out stuff. We only need to get the electrical work and the lighting done before we're able to work on the 02 again. We were able to use a scaffolding to remove some old water pipes and a ton of old electrical wires (some of which we'll be abel to re use) + old light fixturing.. We have quite a bit of scrap metal now lol How its currently..
  7. Another update! Today we trail fitted the new bushing in the replacement panels from W&N we got a while ago. We did have to adjust the angle of the reinforcement panel a little more, as well as that from the flat panel so they match up better. And test fit in the jig After this we trimmed, fettled and adjusted the floor panel a little more. We also made the hole in the panel to we'll be able to remove the bolt later. As well as pressing in the swage line into the panel using some 3D printed dies. Bushing fit's nice and centered into the hole. However, when we tried tacking it in, the panel moved on us, causing it to not sit centered anymore. After removing the couple tack welds and re fitting the panel some more, we finally managed to get it centered back into position. We still need to fully weld it and adjust the rear edge of the panel since pressing with the dies, removed the bend. I think I'll just cut and weld a small section in with the right shape as I wasn't able to form the panel easily after adding the swage line;
  8. Seats look great! Did you repaint the hinges? how did you match the texture?
  9. We still needed to remove the metal bushing for the subframe mount from the rear floor section which we cut out of the car. I went to my work to use the lathe and first tried to clean up the old one but the welds are very hard. So I just opted to make a new one, 2 hours later and voila! With a flat face drill, I made the bottom shoulder where the long bolt sits against. Looks a lot better! And the bolt pressed in
  10. Yesterday we went and picked up the door at the warehouse of Walloth Nesch. The 4th door they sent us also got damaged by shipping, I didn't want to deal with a shipping company myself so just drove myself. Was a 8h drive back and forth but worth it as we now finally have a good door. When in Germany... ? After getting back home, we went to our workshop. We still needed to remove the metal bushing from the rear floor section which we cut out of the car. I went to my work to use the lathe and first tried to clean up the old one but the welds are like diamond, they are very hard. So I just opted to make a new one, 2 hours later and voila! With a flat face drill, I made the bottom shoulder where the long bolt sits against. Looks a lot better! And the bolt pressed in
  11. This weekend I started on making the new panels for the rear left subframe mounting point. I first sandblasted the reinforcement panel as well as the outer wheel well section we removed. A small corner was pitted quite a bit so it got repaired by welding in a small corner. Still need to trim the edges to their final size With the help of some box tubing to get the radius of the bend the same as the original, I remade the rear plate that closes in the subframe mounting point. As well as the inner well got a new small panel Still some trimming needed to do but it's pretty close And test fit with the new/repaired panels, happy with how it turned out.
  12. This weekend I started on making the new panels for the rear left subframe mounting point. I first sandblasted the reinforcement panel as well as the outer wheel well section we removed. A small corner was pitted quite a bit so it got repaired by welding in a small corner. Still need to trim the edges to their final size With the help of some box tubing to get the radius of the bend the same as the original, I remade the rear plate that closes in the subframe mounting point. As well as the inner well got a new small panel Still some trimming needed to do but it's pretty close And test fit with the new/repaired panels, happy with how it turned out.
  13. Another update, we received the new pneumatic die grinder with cut off dics. We were able to remove the corner of the outer wheel tub. More rust After this, we removed the remaining piece of the jacking point reinforcement, as well as a small section of the inner wheel tub that was rusted The hole is getting bigger and bigger ? While my brother separated the jacking point panel and inner wheel well piece + the small plate that closes off the subframe mounting point, I got started on making the new panel for the floor. Pretty straight forward panel to make, only the profile of the floor I needed to mess with a little using the shrinker and hammer/dolly. I still need to trim is some more but overall pretty happy how it turned out.
  14. More rust repairs The hole is getting bigger and bigger ? New panel for the floor. Pretty straight forward panel to make, only the profile of the floor I needed to mess with a little using the shrinker and hammer/dolly. I still need to trim is some more but overall pretty happy how it turned out.
  15. Finally an other update. So in the previous post I said one of the doors from Mechatechnic got damaged in transport. However, they told us it would take several months to get a new stock of doors.. We decided to ask our money back, send the door back to them and order a new door from Walloth Nesch. Unfortunately... The door we received also got damaged during shipping. Emailing W&N, they said a new batch would arrive 29th July. Since then we received a new door and what do you guess..? Also damaged! Again, emailing W&N, they will send us another door and pick up the damaged one. So we will be on our 4th left door.. Seriously how hard is it to deliver a door.. (I do appreciate the great service of W&N though) First door from W&N Second door W&N In the meantime we started on repairing the rear section of the sill, where the chassis mount lives. We made a jig with some box section and tube to make an alignment tool so the suspension point will go in the right place again (doing one side at a time). I don't have a picture but you'll see the jig once we are ready to weld in the new sheet metal. We first removed the old dampening mats on the rear quarters. Little bit of heat, some spatula and a ton of thinner and all the old glue is gone. Little before shot, one of the previous owners "repaired" the outer sill by putting a new sheet over the original panel. We then removed the lower section of the quarter, 1-2cm above the sharp bend in the quarter. Also started removing the first section of the sill. After thinking how we would remove the panels and later get them all repaired, we carefully marked where we will grind the old panel completely out since we don't plan to reuse any of the old panels except the reinforcement panel for the jacking point. Outside still looked pretty good but the inside... not so much Nice big hole :) Inner sill removed I still need to get some smaller cutting discs for the die grinder so I can take out the reinforcement from the outer wheel well high enough to then being able to repair the jacking point reinforcement. Once we remove this corner, we well be able to remove this rear plate as well.
  16. Yes, I had already sandblasted, painted and started repairing the first door frame and then because of the bad fitment + time involved in repairing said frame, I decided to just go for the new MVP doors. Unfortunately one got damaged with transport so that still needs to be resolved (getting a new one from W&N) But the other one fits great!
  17. Those are not the same skins as MVP. Jaymic sold these a couple months earlier. I bought these skins (jaymic) as well but once I clamped them to the door frame, the skin started deforming a whole lot. Also the pocket for the door handle isn't as nicely formed compared to the factory doors or MVP. I decided to send the skins back and went with complete doors from MVP. There was quite a bit of rust between the inner reinforcement piece where the hinges bolt on to and the actual door frame on mine. The MVP doors are very nicely made, the skin is even sealed with sealant to precent water ingress between the bend over flange and edge of the door frame. When I remove the old skins on my factory doors there was rust forming between these two parts even at the upper part of the skins/frame
  18. Thanks Tommy! Yes it's been a while, I've been quite busy with my E30 325iX Touring, modifying the front subframe to fit a later model X3 steering rack as well as a transmission, PS pump and alternator rebuild. Since I'm just about finished with this, it'll be time to get started on the 02 again. However I did order a couple of extra parts. New MVP doors, unfortunately, one door got a small ding/dent in the lower corner. We're still dealing with the shop (Mecatechnic) where we bought these to get a replacement. We als send in our headlight reflectors to a company who replated/chomes these. + new coating on the back side of the reflector. These turned out great!
  19. Made a couple more firewall wiring harness / firewall isolation pad clips, they are a pretty much exact copy of the originals, make a small die press with the 3D printer. These are used in the inside/trunk area as well. If you're interested in purchasing a set.. feel free to send a PM
  20. I remember there was a thread somewhere, where someone posted the dimensions of said piece. I've tried searching but no results.. maybe someone can help?
  21. Meanwhile I was able to source an original BMW 2002 Touring tailgate, they are no longer available from BMW The one you can get some W&N isn't great quality either. as the shape of the lower edge is too rounded and the round indentation where the roundel sits is only half pressed into the sheet metal.. also the frame structure of the tailgate is made from several parts. On the original tailgate from my touring and also the one I just bought it's all one piece. Very happy with my purchase.
  22. So it's been pretty quiet on the Touring for some time. I'm quite busy on upgrading the steering rack on my E30 325iX Touring. (short version, I'm swapping a E83 X3 steering rack but there is quite a bit of modification involved + also rebuilding the transmission...) Meanwhile I was able to source an original BMW 2002 Touring tailgate, they are no longer available from BMW The one you can get some W&N isn't great quality either. as the shape of the lower edge is too rounded and the round indentation where the roundel sits is only half pressed into the sheet metal.. also the frame structure of the tailgate is made from several parts. On the original tailgate from my touring and also the one I just bought it's all one piece. Very happy with my purchase.
  23. I've noticed with the latest update of the forum, that it's no longer possible to use this method of inserting pictures on a post; [url=https://flic.kr/p/2k3VbeS][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50572479508_5242a32d4a_b.jpg[/img][/url] I'm using Flickr to host my pictures and it was extremally easy to just copy the provided link from flickr and copy it into my post. I now have to click on the insert image button for each image.. Could this be fixed? Thank you!
  24. Small update, I was able to find an original BMW front nose panel in Germany. The seller told me it had been laying in his fathers attic for 30+ years. Since the corona pandemic it's pretty hard to travel + it was over 9hours driving to the location, a bit far. After asking for extra pictures, we came to an agreement and the panel got shipped to my door. The back side has some paint on it, the front has overspray but still has the black coating from factory. Very happy with my purchase, I couldn't wait and test fitted the panel with the fender and the (still original) door that's fitted on the Touring. The back side where the panel gets welded on to the car was taped before painting, thus leaving bare metal, hence the rust. It's only surface rust so no big deal. This folded edge is also a lot cleaner than the old reproduction nose we currently have And a test fit on the car, the cross member fit's nicely against the frame rails. The other nose had a +5mm gap! Test fitting a fender. Crazy how much better it fits! With the other nose, the fender sticked out a good 5mm or so.. The gap is a little bit on the bigger side, but the nose panel wasn't fully seated against the egde of the inner fender. I'm sure we'll get if nice and even once it's getting mounted for good.
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