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paulram

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Everything posted by paulram

  1. paulram
    I cut the belt on my air pump today (removing it as soon as I can fit in the garage). I assumed the squeal I heard when giving it gas would be gone. It is not. I checked the alternator belt and it is snug. What else could cause that whining? I don't hear it when I gas the motor by hand at the carb, only when the motor starts pulling (2500 RPM +). It definitely sounds like a squeaky belt. Thanks. Paul
  2. paulram
    Confirmed... Air pump with no ac. Looks like the thermal reactor manifold with tubing hooked into the air pump. When I remove all that crap, do I need or can i remove the nozzles in each of the ports on the exhaust manifold? Is that just a waste of time? I also read on another post you and just seal the large threaded hole with a screw plug.
  3. paulram
    96 Polaris Indy Triple
  4. paulram
    My exhaust manifold looks similar to Steven's
  5. paulram
    I'm in no rush to get to the exhaust... I think a working gas pedal, a window that closes and brakes might be more necessary
  6. paulram
    Holy Schnikes.... I get the feeling alot of the electrical stuff was removed. There's not a whole lot left. Assuming I can remove the air pump I guess I need to remove the header as well according to a previous post. Baby steps....
  7. paulram
    I have a manual.. The engine is kind of a frankenstein of sorts. Whats left of the wiring is a mess. It looks like only what is needed electrically was hooked up to run. My belt is definitely loose and old. I have the upper belt and I was going to replace the other but why bother if it is unnecessary. I'll find out shortly. Paul
  8. paulram
    I am in for Pedal Kit With Nubs and Replacement hood latch wheels. Please let me know. I would be glad to paypal the money to you and have you ship on my UPS or Fedex account if it helps you avoid the man. Paul
  9. paulram
    So what exactly does an air pump do? From what I read it is part of the emissions? If that is the case can it be removed or is it needed for combustion efficiency? I guess what I'm asking is that part of the smog regs? If it is hooked to an AC and Air Pump and both are worthless, I could cut the belt and remove both....
  10. paulram
    I have two belts. Alternator, Fan and Crank on top. Second belt on bottom is loose and squealing. I assumed it was hooked up to a water pump. Is the water pump belt driven? Maybe I have an AC compressor hooked up to a car without ac... Paul
  11. paulram
    I replaced the Vbelt for the Alternator and Fan (10mm x 880mm). I can't find any specs on the second belt from the drive to the water pump. I've looked for the specs but all seem to be for the Alt Belt. Can anyone help? I checked on realoem.com but found nothing. Paul
  12. paulram
    I removed a bunch of padding previously. I think the adjustment under the car is where I need to look. Either way I've got a ton more power and need to adjust the pedal so I don't have to mash it down to get there... Also, Is there a better option for the pedal. The stock pedal seems kind of shady the way it connects with two metal balls and a press fit. It seems to come loose very easily.
  13. paulram
    If you don't mind I'd like to print this out poster size and frame/hang in my office. If you want one, just let me know what size to make it and I can ship one to you. Just PM an address and the size you want it and I'll send it out. Thanks.
  14. paulram
    So thanks to everyone or their advice. Turns out my really dog of an '02 is not such a dog and with the pedal to the floor, the carb was probably only open 60%. I adjusted so it opens 100% and the difference is huge. Questions... 1. does this look like a normal setup for linkage on a weber dgav 33b1. The zip tie is making me wonder. It seems very stiff 2. Now that I have adjusted the linkage, when I take my foot off the gas at higher rpm, I'm getting some blowback (don't know if that is the correct term) but it is not a backfire.... 3. I'm missing the last 1/2" of travel in the gas pedal. The only way I can really get to WOT is to stomp the pedal through the carpet or remove the pedal completely and drive without. I still have adjustment room in the linkage but is there something else I need to adjust? It always seems odd to me when I am adjusting anything to its limit. The last half inch of pedal is where the car seems to sing. Again I I need to replace all parts (dizzy/plugs/wires/rotor) and set timing before moving forward. Thinking the blowback is a timing issue???? Also found out I already have electronic ignition. It's great so many people have offered up advice and opinions. I appreciate it. Paul
  15. paulram
    How does one get on this distro list? I'm in North Jersey. Also, is there a group that goes up to Bear Mountain on Wednesdays? Thinking about taking my son up if its not 102 degrees out. Paul
  16. paulram
    Is there an easy to read wiring diagram for a 1976 2002. It seems to me that when the previous owner replaced the motor it was easier to cut wiring than to reconnect it. I have no fans which is a nightmare when driving in the rain with the windows up, no interior lights, no tachometer etc…
  17. paulram
    Hey, Thanks for all the info. I'm going to start with replacing plugs/wires etc. Should I change to the Hotshot ignition? Is there a downside to it? I'm also going to rebuild the existing carb to rule out any issues or problems. Originally I was just going to buy a new carb. I've seen a lot of discussions on adjusting the carb and figured I might as well go through the paces and increase my knowledge by rebuilding the existing. On the DGAV 33b1 what is the best setup you guys have found? I want to do this progressively. I see alot of threads where people adjust the carb to death and still don't get the desired result. Once I replace all necessary parts (and decide on electric ignition or not), Do I set the timing and then work on carb adjustment? Thanks again. Paul I'll get to desmog when the weather gets a little colder and not 90 in my garage.
  18. paulram
    I really just want a sharp looking car that the interior doesn't look like a complete frankenstein makeover. The story (I say story as it is all I have). Car on craiglist advertised as rust free Arizona car in very good condition for $5900.00. Car turns out to be absolutely rust free. Biggest problem is the repaint. Car is originally metallic gold. Really poor job that isn't done well and is totally orange peeled. Interior should be no issues for what i want. Guy I bought from said he bought it 4 years ago from someone out west (His friend went to check it for him). He paid $3500.00 for it and shipped it for another $1000. I offered him $3K. We finally met at $3500. He said that evidently the motor had been replaced. I have no idea what he was talking about that is was marked with an XX on the motor that designates where that motor came from. I didn't care. It ran and had no rust. I have bumpers (which I don't like) and also extra five rims from a 320i that need new rubber. Shifting is sloppy. I'm going to check the carb and may just buy rebuild kit to rule anything out. I need to check to see if the carb is going wide open. The linkage is tight and actually held tight with a ziptie. I'll check out the desmogging as well. Thanks to everyone. I'm sure you will be hearing more... Paul
  19. paulram
    This is my first post so excuse any long windedness or vague information... So my wife is pissed at me because I went to look at a car with my son and bought said car. She said, "I didn't know you were going to buy it. I thought you were just looking at it". A ridiculous statement. Any way I am the proud owner of a 1976 '02 that needs alot of care and a wife who thinks I'm an idiot. I bought it as it is as rust free as any car I have seen. No rust anywhere. Before I begin with the obvious cosmetics it needs, I need to bring her to a reliable and solid running/handling daily driver. I want to start with the motor and am not looking to set the world on fire, but although the car runs ok, it seems to really dog it. I have memories on my two prior '73s being much punchier... I am no mechanic but am mechanically inclined. Where do I start? I have no real history on the car. Evidently the motor was replaced 25K ago. There has been a lot done to the car (not necessarily well). Plugs/dist/wires are new. Carb is a Weber DGAV 33b1. Looks like alot has been disconnected through the years as far as lights/accessories. I don't care about gas mileage... I want some more punch... Then I can address the crappy paint job, 4 different color interior, huge ugly bumpers that cam with the car, seals, suspension, rims and etc as needed. Thanks! Paul
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