Jump to content

classicman

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    87

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by classicman

  1. classicman
    Hi My car starts easily hot or cold, but I can't get her to idle nicely. At 1100-1200rpm she's fine, if I try to get her below this she is unresponsive and then drops so low she wants to stall. I've had her on a CO meter and she is set between the 2-3% band. At 4,000rpm sh's at 5% although she starts smoking as though she's overfuelling. If I drive her, she pulls well until about 4,500rpm and then she starts fluffing. No backfiring. If I keep the throttle floored, she wants to pull through but just can't. I've gone through the KF set up and syncronisation procedure a dozen times to make sure all is correct. Valve timing is correct and clearances right, in fact shes a little tappety. I've gone through the ignition and replaced plugs, points, condenser, plug leads, coil. Timing is right at 2,400rpm with the ball on the flywheel. Points gap is 0.33mm to get the dwell angle in the correct range. I'm pretty sure I've ruled out ignition. What am I missing?? BTW, running 300deg cam, 39mm exhaust valves and 10:1 compression ratio on unleaded fuel. Motor is completely fresh with new pistons rings and 0.5mm rebore.
  2. classicman
    Hi Jacques. If you can't find one, they are available new, or Va Der Linde Motorsport in Jhb can cut one for you.
  3. classicman
    Are these still available, and will you ship to South Africa? What condition are the belts in?
  4. classicman
    Hi Looking for one Alpina rim off the green car, washer pump and retractable front seatbelts.
  5. classicman
    Retractable front seat belts?
  6. classicman
    Thank you for this. Is there any way of matching distributor numbers / types to these pumps? It will be easier for me to change my distributor than the pump.
  7. classicman
    Thank you for this. Is there any way of matching distributor numbers / types to these pumps? It will be easier for me to change my distributor than the pump.
  8. classicman
    I hope you don't mind me coming in on this one, because I have a similar problem: My 74tii came with a pump PL04-124.01 and the date on the pump is 73. With my Alpina upgrades, I bought an "Alpina A4" pump in Germany which is now on my car and the number is 92004011 B-1 (5 / 01312). I have been struggling to set this pump up to run on my car with the standard tii intake and mechanical advance distributor. Could this be my problem?
  9. classicman
    My Alpina airdam from Jaymic in the UK.
  10. classicman
    @ c.d.iesel - It is spring here now :-) You must be tired of answering my posts by now....... Fuel pump delivery volume = 1L in 30sec. Fuel pump pressure = 22PSI at Cold start valve (Bottom of spec) Linkages are correct length. Timing correct - half the ball on flywheel at 2,400rpm Cam timing is correct Injection pump timing is correct It's not even that it just runs out of uumph, it just dies and then gives a bit of a backfire. Even at lower revs if I floor it, same thing, its like the engine dies. If I rev the car at standstill, it revs up, but pops / crackles on the backfire. I had it set much richer at one stage, and it didn't do this but emitted black smoke. I didn't try and take it for a drive then, but should have in hindsight. To compensate, I leaned off on the verboten screw. Maybe I leaned off to much. I'm going to forget about setting the CO for now and see if I can just get it running better by richening up first.
  11. classicman
    A stock tii can get past 4,500 easily, and a tuned one would do it even easier. If it struggles, then I suspect you have another problem (eg. fueling/timing) Remember, your still pumping the same amount of air as a stock tii and only more when you rev higher. So you should be able to easily rev to 6000rpm at least with the stock air box. Regards Jacques Hey Jacques. I'm 100% certain of the timing and spark supply etc. I'm still working on the fuel supply though and that is where I was also looking at the air supply. More fuel (A4 Kugelfisher pump) would also need more air. My CO reading is already over 5% at 4,000rpm and my fuel pressure reading is in spec (albeit at the lower end). I'm going to richen the mixture at the "verboten screw" and see if it makes a difference. I'm also going to try without the airbox as well, to see if this makes a difference.
  12. classicman
    The A4 doesn't run ITB's, the A4/s does.
  13. classicman
    Hi My tii is tuned to Alpina A4 spec (+/-160bhp). I am running the standard airfilter housing but with K&N Filter cartridges in both ends. Whilst fiddling with the car the other night, trying to get it to run past 4,500rpm under load, it struck me that the stock filter housing may not be sufficient for a 23% increase in power. What I have thought of doing is taking the end caps off and leaving the K&N's exposed. This will definitely allow more air in, but won't look as neat. Anyone have an opinion on this?
  14. classicman
    Ok, so I tossed the points and condenser as it turns out I was running the wrong condenser - good for 2002 but wrong for tii. Put the Pertronix back in and running nicely - spark wise. Got the timing set in nicely and the CO's almost right. Still dying at about 4,500rpm though and under load. This points to what c.d.iesel was saying about fuel pressure. Put a gauge on at the cold start valve and it is coming in at about 21 PSI, which looks to be at the bottom end of the spec. Tonight I am going to check at various other points to see if there is maybe a blockage somewhere or if the pump is tired. Previously measured the return to the tank at 1L in 30secs, but will check again tonight.
  15. classicman
    Retractable front seat belts?
  16. classicman
    I set the points to 0.016" (0.4mm) as a start. Last time I checked with my dwell meter though, this was out of the dwell range, and when I set the dwell, it was closer to a 0.012" gap. I have set the timing using the ball on the flywheel method- half the ball at 2,400rpm for the 74tii. Something is still not right and she battles to start. I have to advance her to start when cold and then move her back to her original position when running. Even using this method, there is a lot of cranking involved.
  17. classicman
    I have come to the conclusion that I have an electrical fault somewhere and this is frustrating the hell out of me. I have been switching back and forth between Pertronix and points to try and get my car running properly, but still stumped. When I put the points in and start with the mandatory 0.4mm point gap, the car starts. When I try and attach the dwell meter to set the dwell, the engine dies. I've done it over and over again to ensure that it is connected properly, with the same result. Please help before I go insane!!!
  18. classicman
    Thanks, but I am only looking for one rim, not the whole set.
  19. classicman
    Thanks for the offer, but I am looking for the 3 spoke wheel.
  20. classicman
    Hi I I'm looking for a Satin black, leather steering wheel for my csl restoration. The early carb cars had these instead of the Petri wheels. Anyone able to help, please pm me. Thanks.
  21. classicman
    I'm looking for one rim as a spare for my tii. Getting it ready for a show and don't like the look of the steel spare. Need to ship to South Africa as well, please.
  22. classicman
    Jandre, once you've packed everything out, let me know what is "missing" and I'll see what I can dig up for you. I'm pretty sure that most of those parts are in there somewhere :-)
  23. classicman
    Hi Pat I put my name down for one in the last batch and never received a response. Any idea on when more will be available?
  24. classicman
    I have no idea, I'm clutching at straws here. What else would cause this?
  25. classicman
    Hi I suspect that I am not getting full advance on my distributor as my car won't rev past +/- 4,500rpm. At that point it fluffs and dies. I phoned Bosch South Africa today and they tell me that parts for my distributor are NLA. The numbers on my dizzy are 0231 151 009 and JFD4. Any ideas on where I can get rebuild parts? If i turn the rotor by hand, it moves, so it is not jammed. How do I check if the maximum advance is working 100% before I start chasing my tail? I'm running Pertronix on a newly built motor, new plugs and leads and the injection system is set up correctly with CO's to spec.
×
×
  • Create New...