classicman

I don't know about the Jag one, but I have fitted one off a Mercedes to my 74tii. They are both Bosch with the same part number. I would imagine that if the Jag is running a Bosch system, the valve should be the same.

I have checked my plug and they look quite rich. I was expecting this as my CO's are on the rich side. I'm running an A4 pump which would give the motor more fuel up the rev range I would assume. Possible that my rich mixture is too much for the plugs to burn up the rev range? Something else struck me though. My car was set up with an external ballast resistor on the old coil ('74tii). I have changed to Pertonix and a Flame Thrower coil and left the resistor disconnected. Could this be the problem? lastly, how do I check that my mechanical advance is working correctly? How do I check maximum advance on my distributor?

Tested at both the cold start valve and the return line at the gas tank - 1L in 30 seconds, so that means that my fuel lines are OK, right?

Nope. A4 pump but std intake.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I will check the fuel delivery rate / pressure this evening. I suspect that there may be clogging as I had the tank cleaned (sandblasted) and it stood empty for a few years before I put gas in it. The fuel lines are brand new as are the filters, but the main filter may be clogged with rust / dirt. The magnetic collar on the Pertronix is a tight fit. How do you check maximum advance on the distributor? Plugs and leads are new.

Hi I have been struggling with my tii setup for some time now. I have gone through all the checks and the timing is right (set on the flywheel ball at 2,400rpm), the linkage lengths are correct, the warm up valve cone rises it's 10mm, etc, etc. When I set the CO's (5.8% at 4,000 rpm and 2.5% at idle) it runs beautifully for a while. The first problem I had was when accelerating hard, it would quickly start running rough, until I realized that the stop on the accelerator pedal was not synchronized to the stop on the pump, so the clamp bolt under the Tuna can would shift. I rectified this and thought that all would be OK. Yesterday I took my car out for a photo-shoot for an article in an upcoming BMWCar magazine. On the way there she ran nicely (120km/h on the freeway), but when I stopped en-route and switched her off, she ran on as though she had pre-ignition. She also fluffed at about 5,000rpm, as though she was running out of fuel. After cranking for quite some time, she started again and ran ok, but the fluffing problem then started to happen at about 4,000rpm. I had to start her and switch her off numerous times during the photo-shoot and she started easily, but the idle was a bit erratic at 1,000rpm and she "pre-ignited" almost every time I switched her off. On the way home, the fluffing started at around 3,000rpm and I started to worry about making it home. I have checked the linkages again and she has not reset herself and the timing is still in. I really am frustrated and stumped by this. I know the mixture is a bit rich at 5.8%, but surely this isn't the problem? Any help will be appreciated. I am running a pertronix, new Bosch plugs, new 8mm silicone wires and a new flamethrower coil. When I built the motor I put in a new thermostat that is 5deg colder than standard. The temp gauge runs midway between the blue mark and the halfway mark. I have been wondering if she is not running too cold and therefore too rich, but the cone rises to it's 10mm.

Hi Struggling with setting the door glass on the right side door. I can't get the glass to crank all the way to the top so that it seals. I have loosened the stops on both ends, so these don't come into play. When I crank to the top, I can hear a metallic clunk, so there is something stopping the mechanism. The glass is higher towards the back of the car than the front, and if I pull on the glass in the front is comes up by about half an inch. Anyone else had a similar issue?

I started from scratch yesterday and pulled the distributor out, got the car on TDC and started from the beginning again. An hour later, I cranked her, she fired up after two turns and settled into an idle without me touching the accelerator pedal. The CO's are still a bit on the high side at 6%, but I'll live with that for the next week or so. I took her for a drive today and she was so sweet, all the effort was worth it. One thing I did pick up though was at about 4,500rpm she bogged down. She did this more than once and in any gear. Up to there she is crsip and pulls like a steam train. Any ideas?

Let me start by saying that I feel like an ass on this one, and I still need some help please. I had two previous threads going on the ignition timing and the KF setup, and thought it may be easier to start fresh, so here goes: I did the whole KF set up and set the CO's at 5% at 4,500rpm and 2.5% at idle. The timing was set at 2,400rpm with the ball and the dwell at 60deg. The car somehow still didn't run smoothly. Over the weekend, a mate pointed out that the car sounded as though it was running on three cylinders, and sure enough, the number 3 plug was dead. I put in a new set of Bosch plugs and tried again. She wouldn't start, but would conitnue to run on as if she wanted to, but just wouldn't fire. I loosened the distributor and turned it anticlockwise about 10deg and she fired up. She didn't run so nicely though until I turned the distributor back to its original position, then she ran beautifully, but I couldn't get her to idle below 1,400 rpm. Everytime I try to start her again, I have to turn the distributor back and then forward to her original position to get her to run nicely. I took her for a drive and after about 20km on my way home she stalled and ran on, preigniting. I managed to start her and get her back home and she did it again. Something is way out here. I realise that my mixtures will be way out again now she is running on all four cylinders and will be resetting them this weekend. Could the mixture be causing this? Oh, and another thing, when I connected up my dwell meter to the coil and earth, she ran rougher and wanted to stall until I disconnected the dwell meter again. Strange! I am taking the points out tonight and fitting my new Pertronix unit. This is coupled to a 40,000V Flame Thrower Coil, 8mm HT leads and the External resistor is still in place. This is the only other change that I recently made, by reconnecting it. Any ideas?

Sent you a mail.

Sent you a mail.

Thanks Mitch. I'm at your mercy on the price, depends on what the shipping costs will be as well to see if it is worth it. Let me know when you have this, pm me.

Wouldn't the pressure at the distributor be less than at the pump by virtue of the fact that it loses along the way, or am I confusing velocity with Pressure?

Ok, so I took the spacer out, all 16mm of it. I have no idea how this got there, must have come from the factory like this. Scary. I measured the total length and free-play on the old pressure relief valve as well as the new on now without the spacer, and the lengths are the same and there is 2mm more free-play on the new set up installed over the old one. Hopefuly this won't result in reduced oil pressure. I'd like to fit a pressure gauge to make sure though. There is an oil feed pipe off the oil filter housing that goes to the KF pump. Would it be feasible to put a T-piece in here for the oil pressure sender unit?

Hi Mitch I do, please. Realoem shows that these are the same as the E12 cars as well. I managed to hunt one down here but the part is not the same, maybe different as the E12 I checked was electric. Please let me know how much for the Right Side, and postage to Port Elizabeth, 6008, South Africa. Cheers Nick

No, the spacer stops up against the flare. The washer then stops up against the spacer and then comes the circlip.

I have a used oil pump at home that looks exactly like the diagrams above, with the large retaining nut that holds the pressure relief valve in the pump. The pump on my car, however, is different. The whole assembly is held in place by a circlip and not the large retaining nut. That spacer came out of the pump as is, and there is a recess in the housing that accommodates this spacer, so it looks like it is supposed to be there. I can't see why there are the two large holes in the spacer though as they don't line up with any holes in the housing?? The pump is an aftermarket pump listed for the M10 block for the E30 316, 318 and the E12 518's here in South Africa. None of our spares places have the 2002 listed. M10 is M10 though, so this shouldn't make a difference.

Ok, so I finally got down to removing my sump and I removed the pressure relief valve. Attached is a photo of how the valve is assembled. Looks correct to me, but I'm a newby at this one, so if it is wrong, please point me in the right direction......

lol, I didn't know there was a Port Elizabeth in the USA - weird! Jacques, you following me around, I'm starting to get nervous :-) Thanks for the advice guys. I'm thinking (hoping) that the problem is high oil pressure and cold oil. It has happened to me twice, but I have run the car quite a bit inbetween. Both times it happened at startup when the car was cold. I'm going to try a better quality filter to start with and fit the guages so I can see where I'm going before I drop the sump etc.

Hi Pat. Please put me down for one as well if someone drops out of this run. If not, please put me on the next run.

I want to fabricate and install one of these on my dash. I have seen a few variations and am not sure if Alpina had a standard style or did it to customer preference. I have seen the following: - 3 Gauge pod with Oil pressure, Water temp and standard ti/tii clock. - 3 Gauge pod with Oil, water and voltmeter. Clock remains in its normal position. - A4/S with 5 gauge pod - don't know what the 5 gauges are though. Some of the pods have two small "indicator" lights on either side, and some don't. I'd be very happy for your input please.

Thanks c.d.iesel. What should the pressures be? I'm looking to fabricate and install an Alpina style instrument pod on the dash using VDO gauges from a mk1 VW Rabbit GTi. Just want make sure that the increments on these gauges would be similar to the 02's.

OK, so it has been some time since I needed to bring this up again as I thought I had the settings right. I went through all the manuals and steps, and eventually I had the CO set at 5% at 4,000rpm and 2.5% at idle. The idle was still a bit lumpy but I was happy with her running a little on the rich side. She started easily and ran well. My thinking was to do 1,000km and then retorque the head and re-check all of the settings. The car has been standing for the last two weeks and now that I have tried to restart her, she won't start. She "runs-on" while cranking, but just won't fire up. When the battery ran flat, I resorted to pushing her down the hill to try and start her. Not smart, as she still wouldn't fire up and I was stuck at the bottom of the hill. While towing her back up, she eventually started and once started, ran nicely. I drove her back down the road to my house and now she won't start again. Any ideas??

HI My 74tii is fresh fom a complete rebuild. When I first started the motor, the seal on the oil filter (new Fram PH4875) popped on the one side and the car spewed fresh oil all over my garage floor. I took it off and it all looked fine. I thought the seal maybe wasn't seated correctly the first time. so I carefully replaced the seal and filter. All has been well until this morning when it popped the seal again, this time just up the road, so luckily I could freewheel the car back home. I took the filter off again, and everything looked fine. I have put it back on again to see how it seats, and it looks as though the filter fits slightly skew. The side facing the front of the car seats nice and flush, but the side facing the firewall looks as though it is about 1mm higher than the front side. This is where the seal is popping. Faulty filter, wrong filter or something else to look for??

Thanks. At least I can stop looking for "missing" parts now! lol