MattL

I’ll take it. Pm on the way. 

Love this listing. I'd snatch these up if they'd fit my DHLAs. The jazz provenance alone is worth the price of admission. 

Hi Esty. Does the carpet have blue in it, or is the "blue" just indicating that it's appropriate for blue cars? (The pics look like it's black and white or black, gray, and white.) 

Not that I noticed, no. 

Thanks for the nudge to come back and update. In my case, it ended up being the clutch. Replaced it and the problem disappeared. 

Thanks. PM sent. 

Is the fan still available?

^ assuming you’re willing to ship, that is. (I’m in NJ.)

I’ll take it!

Thanks a lot, @0257 ! That looks awesome. I have a tough choice to make. 

2 minutes ago, NYNick said:

Matt,

I notice you live in NJ. I installed my carpeting about this same time of year and I live just north of NYC. I struggled with getting it to fit but eventually got it in. If I had it to do over again, I'd wait until late Spring or early Summer when I could lay the carpet out in the sun to get it nice and hot. When it's pliable it's MUCH easier to work with. FYI!!!

Nick

Thanks, @NYNick. Will do. I've got a ceiling-mounted infrared heater out in the garage, to warm me up like a bunch of fries while I'm poking at things I don't understand in the engine bay. Not enough candlepower to heat up much in the way of square footage, though. 

On 1/24/2020 at 7:27 PM, 0257 said:

Chalk up another successful carpet installation to one of Esty’s great carpet sets.  #405 is a great match for Fjord Metallic and a blue interior. 

@0257 - Do you have any additional photos of your interior with Esty's 405 carpet installed, and could you share/post them? I'm trying to decide between the 405 and 1c for my car with marine blue interior. Thanks in advance!

Thanks, all. I’m happy to hear that I just need to give it more gusto. I’ve broken enough stuff that “Don’t force it” is permanently etched into my psyche. 

I neglected to mention it, but I removed the washer with the nut. 

Still no luck with the above suggestions. With the penetrating oil on, though, I can see that there is play in the splines. So, it’s not seized there. When I push the wheel forward and then pull back, it feels like there is a catch or clip or other diametrically-opposed barrier keeping it from detaching. I didn’t think there was anything to remove other than the nut. Is there something I’m forgetting? 

I haven’t tried penetrating oil yet, no. Same with the re-nut and whack. I’ll give those a shot. Thanks. 

I didn’t know they made Borbets (or ATS?) in 10”.

I have an E21 sport steering wheel installed on my 76. Since I installed it a couple years ago it’s had a very slight lateral wobble that I attributed to a missing washer or something keeping it from seating fully. In any case, I tried today to take the wheel off to address the issue. The nut came off fine, but I can not get the wheel to budge off the splines. I’m worried I may have over tightened the nut when I installed it, or somehow fouled the splines. Any tips? 

The Dad Joke quotient of this thread is off the charts. 

12 hours ago, man_mark_7 said:

Did you remove wheels for some reason during your work? Could it be a loose drive wheel? I once forgot to fully tighten my lug nuts on one wheel and it had exactly these symptoms.

 

Good luck.

I have done that same thing myself, but no, that’s not it this time. The lug nuts are all on there good and tight. 
 

I will go through this checklist you guys have put together for me. Thank you much. 

I recently put my 242 and driveshaft back in my car after realizing my 245 wasn’t ready to be installed. Torqued everything down to manual specs, put new fluids in, etc. Put in a new clutch slave. It’s been driving fine since, although I only take it out on weekends. I’ve probably put a couple hundred miles on it since putting the 4-speed back in. Today, though, I took it out for a very short drive and noticed within a few miles a knock under the car whenever I went over a bump. I turned around and headed home. Within another mile, the knock started happening without bumps, and then was joined by very jerky forward motion, like there was a fuel issue or something. Frequency was proportional to road speed. Depressing the clutch made the jerkiness go away. I limped home at about 20 mph. 
 

When I pulled in, I saw some fluid on the garage floor. Brake fluid. Looked under the car and it looks like the clutch master cylinder is leaking from inside the pedal box. But would that explain all the other stuff? I didn’t see any obvious issues with the giubo or driveshaft in general. 
 

One other thing that could be related: the input shaft of the tranny has a bunch of play in it. It must have had it since I’ve had the car, but I didn’t know until I pulled the unit out. Never seemed to cause any problems other than an annoying rattle that I initially thought was the pilot bearing. 

 

No hard feelings, Hal! You have a good eye for deals. I actually enabled text notifications because I was so tired of losing out to you! 

Best of luck with the conversion. A little more time in the box won't hurt my Dells.

Dang it, Hal! You're always so fast!

PM on the way.

Latest update: I’ve confirmed that the bell housing bolt pattern was warped, either by the initial damage or the repair. So, the bolt pattern is off and the transmission won’t bolt up. Luckily, there’s a bmw transmission guy not too far from here. (Thanks for the referral, @stone02 .) So, I’ll be taking my tranny and the parts unit Vince donated over to him. (Thanks again, Vince!) 
 

Since Gordon won’t be able to get to it for at least 8 weeks, I’m putting the 4-speed back in. I’ve replaced the pilot bearing, flywheel and clutch, and I figured getting the 4-speed reinstalled would be relatively painless. ? Boy was I wrong. Banged up my knuckles and exhausted my vocabulary last weekend. Going to give it another go this afternoon. 
 

What a saga.