MattL

Out with the old. 
 

As part of this project, I'm also replacing my rusted-out manifold and downpipe. All the nuts are rusted solid to the studs on the manifold, so that's another thing I should've ordered to begin with. And I need to grind some of the repair weld on the transmission in order for the slave cylinder to fit with the bleed nipple down. So, it's finally time to get an angle grinder...

I had an idea for a new Marvel Supervillain called "The Scope Creep." Nobody knows where he came from, but he gets bigger and bigger due to his insatiable hunger for money. He terrorizes the city, interrupting the existing plans of law-abiding citizens with his Rust Ray and Christmas Light Lasso. 

47 minutes ago, jgerock said:

I have to say there is a HUGE amount of information on this swap on this site.

No doubt about it. But the argument against the cantilever bracket here is more compelling than I’ve seen elsewhere. I sure feel I’ve been saved from a very poor decision. 

I am really glad I started this post. 

Just a quick update: I emailed Blunt this morning, and he already has all the parts on their way to me, at what seem like wholesale prices. That guy doesn't mess around. 

3 hours ago, mlytle said:

since you are using one of those craptastic horse's ass rear mounts, make sure to keep checking it regularly after install to watch for when it starts bending the stock tunnel mounts down causing the guibo alignment to go out.  that is assuming you can get the back of the trans aligned correctly with that mount.

 

or you could just do it correctly now with trans out and put real mounts in the tunnel.

 

just sayin'.....BTDT.

  
But how do you guys REALLY feel? ? Seriously, though, thank you for the emphatic input. The Blunttech kit actually arrived without a bracket, and the use-of-existing-mounts aspect of the Jackass bracket appealed to my sense of efficiency *cough* LAZINESS * cough*.  So, I asked Blunt to send one of those instead. I’ll go ahead and order the Gallant bracket and see if I can foist the Goofus model off on someone less susceptible to peer pressure than I. 

On 4/26/2020 at 4:01 PM, jgerock said:

Please put the throw out bearing, cross bar and retaining spring inside the bell housing before going any further- and extend the stock reverse light wiring harness.  

I’m glad you mentioned this. I have a new 320i throw out bearing, but hadn’t even thought about the clutch fork. It didn’t come with the transmission, so I’ll be ordering a fork and retaining spring. Thanks for the nudge. 

Well, I didn’t get as far along as I had hoped before having to return to family duties, but I’m on my way. The car is up, and I’ve started disconnecting stuff. I’ll continue tomorrow night, if I have the energy. 
 

Thanks for all the pointers, everyone. I’m grateful, and will follow your advice. 

This is all great stuff, guys. Exactly what I was hoping for; thank you. I'm off to Harbor Freight to get a pair of taller stands. 

14 minutes ago, Henning said:

 

...or switch plans and get a glass cabinet for that clean beauty!

How are you going to fix the rear transverse mounts to the tunnel? Weld or bolt? In any case you should remove the sound deadener on the tunnel. Not such an easy job to remove the one-piece carpet out of a squarie if your car is one.

 

hen

 

I had actually JUST put my carpet back in after putting in new sound deadening mat and rubber insulation when I saw this cracked but repaired transmission from Resra. Couldn’t pass up the deal, but I do NOT want to take out the carpet again unless I’m forced to. So, I opted for the horseshoe bracket that uses the existing mounts. 

Or am I going about this wrong?

Looks like I need to pick up some taller stands. 
 

?

2 hours ago, jgerock said:

Before removing the original transmission, turn the wheels either full lock left or right so the center link is at its lowest point.  You might have to fit the 5 speed tranny more than once. 

Got it. Danke!

1 hour ago, jimk said:

Set the 5spd on the jack before you raise the car to see how high you will need the car.!!

This is definitely the kind of thing I needed to hear! Thanks! You’ve saved my family and neighborhood from a pretty lengthy stream of creative profanity. 

2 hours ago, dirving said:

If you're the king I'm the jester but I did the swap over the winter into an auto car. You are dealing with the right people so far ( @resra and Blunt). The Bluntech kit works well. I used his driveshaft also and highly recommend it. Wanted to retain the existing mounts just because but ended up cutting them off because they were just in the way. I was trying to credit someone for this tip but couldn't find them -when installing the new trans insert long bolts in a couple of threaded holes with heads cut off to guide and support the trans as its going in. Slot with Dremel to remove with screw driver. Bleed the slave loose with the bleeder screw facing up. Replace everything in there of course. Clutch, seals, backup switch. There's more such as removing center link and aligning driveshaft but you've read probably everything.You can do it. Get the car safely elevated. You'll be going back and forth under there a lot.  Scope creep is inevitable for me anyway. Budget more than you think. I lined the upper part of the tunnel with matallized heat wrap using plumber strapping to hold in place.

I saw the headless bolt trick, too (and also have forgotten who recommended it.) Did you have a tranny jack at your disposal? I was hoping having the jack might let me get away without doing the bolt thing. I’m quite lazy, you see. ?

5 minutes ago, kbmb02 said:

 

I'd suggest the factory pivot pin rather than brass (I tried a brass pin once, and it was worn in a short period of time... compared to OEM pins which have lasted hundreds of thousands of miles). -KB

The transmission actually came to me with a brass pin in it already. Ordered another before I realized. 

On 4/25/2020 at 10:04 AM, Highnote1 said:

I think....all welding complete! Full rocker and lower quarter on one side. Front of rocker only on drivers side. If you have not bought one of these cheap Bluetooth cameras that hook up to your phone and give you glimpses in tiny places do it! Kept me from replacing things that were not rusted out. 

Now THAT is a reason to pop the bubbly or uncork the Pappy! Congrats!

I’m going to start my swap to a 245 tomorrow. I’ve read everything I could find about the project, including all the FAQ topics and how-tos (at least 3 times each). Thanks a million to all the gurus here who have been so generous with their time and efforts in compiling this stuff. 
 

I have the transmission (thanks, @resra) and all the fixings (the Blunttech ultimate kit, etc.). Also picked up a transmission jack on sale at HB. Now I don’t have any excuse not to get the car up on stands and start working. 
 

That said, does anybody have any last tips or pointers for me? Anything they wish they’d done (I have the brass clutch pivot pin and a freshly resurfaced flywheel to put in)? I don’t need to get to get to TDC or anything prior to jacking it up, right?

I am the king of stupid mistakes, and this is a last-ditch effort to relinquish the crown before it’s too late. 

Popped off the diving board. Now working straightening up the shorty bumper I have a bit, and then I’ll turn my attention to making some mounts. 

Those look killer.

16 hours ago, bluebmw said:

Side note: all posters in this thread so far have Pastellblau 2002s - what are the odds! ?

Great minds think alike!

Those examples are very nice. A couple things I’ve been thinking would be cool:

1: A vintage BMW Motorsport roundel sized for e21 sport steering wheels. (In color, rather than the correct grayscale.)
2. Driver/Co-driver flag + name decals, but completely monochromatic. I think it would be cool to have a subtle one of these on my car, in gray or dark blue (my interior color) so that it kind of disappears. I’ve looked online for a place that does these, but they’re all set up for full-color flags. 

I know you already mentioned them, but I love my MkII Jetta Recaros, and they weren’t expensive. $400 for the pair, I think, and easy to mount with the widely-available adapters. Color matched to my blue interior pretty well with vinyl spray dye (and lots of brushing). Very supportive and comfy, and huge improvement over stock. 
 

Some of the Fox-body Mustangs had similar Recaros, too, as did a cop car from the early 90s. Chevy Lumina, maybe? The bolstering on the cop seats won’t be as good, though, apparently to accommodate gun belts, etc. 

NA and NB Miata seats fit too, and they should be easy to find. Also comfy and supportive, IIRC. 

Thanks, Swiz. Ireland sold me a used shorty, so I went ahead and ordered a down pipe from them as well. Thanks anyway. 

Deal! Thanks! I’ll send you a PM.