OriginalOwner

  since I don't know left from right ......

  1/4 turn makes a noticeable change .....

Cheers,

Carl

 napa02,

 I gotta laugh ..... there's a couple of weeks a year I also like having a heater in the car.

Cheers,

Carl

 I would say, "Join The 2002 Club" and you'll wonder why you didn't do so many many years ago !!

 I've had my'74tii for 38-1/2 years and have never once regretted the choice.  99% of the maintenance I do myself, and I have a trusted local guy who has done the "big stuff" I don't want to mess with.  Well designed, easy to work on, it seems the designers purposely kept ease of maintenance in mind.  I've never had to buy any specialized tools for any work I've done.

And the best part:  This Forum.  There is so much technical knowledge and assistance available.

Cheers,

Carl

 I'll take the opposite opinion:  don't connect 'em.  I did that and my engine temp went up and up.

 The heater input line comes from the back of the head, so that water is plenty hot.  By re-circ'ing that hot water directly back into the water pump (via what is the heater outlet tube) and thus into the engine block without any circuit through the radiator to get cooled, much of the coolant never gets back through the radiator.  My opinion based on my experience.

 I just capped 'em off, and had no more cooling problems.  As Beck suggested above, I used 2 shorty hoses and hose clamps to close 'em off.

Cheers,

Carl

 I don't think you can replace just the bearing, you must replace the whole Upper Strut Tower Bearing assembly which looks like this .....

 here is one source: 

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=31%2033%201%20110%20195&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googlebase&utm_source=31%2033%201%20110%20195&gclid=CM38hOPh6LYCFcLc4AodjgwAYw

There are a few threads here in The Forum for installing.

Cheers,

Carl

+1 HBChris' comment.

 Personally, I would use a bolt so as to get a "peace of mind" torque applied to keep the wheel cylinder firmly in place "forever."

For my '74tii, this shows a Hex Bolt, M6x12 ......

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2233&mospid=47141&btnr=34_0794&hg=34&fg=10

And just to say it:  use new lock washers .... and perhaps a drop or two of Blue LocTite.  

Cheers,

Carl

"events forum" ??  I've never heard about it until now.

 If it is not in "general" I'll never see it.

Cheers,

Carl

Have a great time !!!

Cheers,

Carl

p.s.  I'll be in Ojai on Saturday, but not in my '74tii ...... Simi to Fillmore to Santa Paula to Ojai ..... 

Thanks Much for the insight.

I'm thinking I'll pull it out on Sunday and have a look ..... i was going to do it today but got sidetracked by a motorcycle, perfect weather, and canyon roads.

Cheers,

Carl

I bought some at my local NAPA, they had 1 long piece in a box, they cut to your desired length(s). Expensive but immediately available.

A few years ago I found some blister-packed at Pep Boys, but it was only a 2-foot length per package.

Cheers,

Carl

jrhone,

I'm curious to know the "exact and precise" dimensions of the battery.

In my tii I only have 1/2" clearance between the top-back-edge of the battery and the air cleaner ..... a tight squeeze with the Group 42 battery I've always used.

Cheers,

Carl

SFbay,

I used one of those inexpensive take-apart-for-cleaning type of filters. Small, nothing fancy ..... something like this:

Cheers,

Carl

I did the conversion to 5-series a couple of years ago.

I don't know the design function of the canister, but because BMW put it there, I reckon it's important, so I would plumb it in.

The pump I bought did not have any filter on the inlet, so I installed an in-line filter between gas tank and pump.

And I used a lot of fuel hose for the inlet and outlet plumbing. As you note, the inlet and outlet are "reversed" so I used a few miles of hose. All the outlet hose is high pressure, as it needs to be.

And I used lots of tie wraps to hold all that fuel hose up high. Don't want it eventually sagging down and scraping against the halfshaft.

Cheers,

Carl

Steve,

Thanks Much !! Driven past there a bazillion times and didn't know that place did speedometer work.

Cheers,

Carl

Thanks Much !!

Cheers,

Carl

Opinions please on what is broken: speedometer and/or cable.

The speedometer needle zooms up to 60mph when I'm doing 10mph. At a steady road speed of about 40mph, the needle registers around 75 mph, but bounces down to 40 and up to 90, up/down.

The odometer seems OK in terms of mileage driven.

Speedo itself ?? Broken cable ?? Both ??

Cheers,

Carl

+1 2002 Haus

http://2002haus.com/store/products/tii-warm-up-transmitter-regulator-13-51-1-256-543

Cheers,

Carl

AUSGEZEICHNET !!!

Cheers,

Carl

in another thread you'll find a reference to "personal lubricant" as a viable option to ease the sliding action thereinto.

Cheers,

Carl

you lost me .....

is the starter now actually spinning the engine ??

and the new problem is no start ??

Cheers,

Carl

Cheers,

Carl

jgerock,
I'm thinking that plasti-dip would wear away very quickly .....


UPDATE .....
I just added 2 washers under the spring end. The spring angle on the knob is such that the spring drops down against the coupling. 3 reasons I don't want that to happen:
1) the spring will wear away the coupling (eventually).
2) the spring body moves down about 1/4" closer to the plastic injection pipe for cylinder #1 ..... the washers will move the spring body up and away from the pipe.
3) I want the spring end to ride in the small file groove I made (just a personal thing).

SO, I added a couple of washers to fit over the sleeve. The spring end is now in the filed groove, the spring "down" angle will hold 'em in place, and the spring body is further away from the injection pipe.
AND, I hosed everything down with RemOil, so at least for now there is some lube action for all the sliding friction.






Cheers,

Carl

jgerock,

great pictures, it is obviously not just me that has seen that long-term effect.

bluedevils,

I couldn't weld because I did not want to disassemble the whole mess, then pretend I could get it all back together correctly. As I understand it, there are timing/indexing concerns for the throttle shaft between the tuna can and the KF unit ???

And because I'm lazy, I fixed the problem in less than 1 hour, instead of hours and hours, with all the attendant uncertainty.

02fanatic,

as the throttle shaft rotates, the "knob" itself does not rotate, but the spring end rotates around the "knob's" vertical axis and therefore acts just like a file ..... plus compounding the problem with no lube and tons of dirt and grit ..... and you end up with what you see in my picture and jgerock's picture.

Cheers,

Carl

my 74tii has the original starter, don't know if that is an SR71X ??

I looked at mine, but it doesn't look anything like your picture .....

here's a picture of mine anyway, no idea if it will help .....

at the lower right, the clean terminal: that is the battery cable terminal .....

Cheers,

Carl

funny you should say "so sleeve rotates on pin."

that is actually what was happening: when pushing down on the throttle, the sleeve rotated on the pin.

BUT, because my sleeve hole is quite off-center, the very-thin side ended up grinding away under the spring.

SO, to prevent sleeve rotation and keep the sleeve "fat" side against the spring at all times, I used lots of JB Weld (which is still setting-up).

I'm not certain the sleeve rotating is a good idea, this could wear away the "knob" itself ..... with what I've got, the sleeve will wear away.

Cheers,

Carl