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OriginalOwner

Kugelfischer
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Posts posted by OriginalOwner

  1.  I am a bit imprecise on routing, but as long as fuel gets to the cold start valve, and into the KF, then back to the gas tank, ya done good !!

     

     The hose to the cold start valve:  I run it over the top of the intake runner, since routing the hose underneath the runner lets the hose get abraded & it loses wall thickness as it rubs against the runner.  And as lilmo noted, running it over the intake runner lets the hose abrade the paint on the hood.  Can't win.

        Take a look at the picture just above my post:  you can see the little clamp to hold the hose down away from the hood, but you can see the hose touching the first intake runner nut/stud and passing under the runner:  lots of vibration and rubbing there, wearing away at the hose wall thickness in two places.  Just one of those tii "things" you get used to.

     

     and +1 lilmo:  you are missing the hose clamp on the rubber intake bellows into the air can.  You have one on the throttle body, not the big black air can.

     

     and to say it just to say it:  make sure all fuel hose from the outlet of the electric fuel pump to the KF & cold start valve, and back to the tank is rated as high pressure hose.  "normal" fuel hose at an auto parts store is low pressure.  Be sure you've got high pressure.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  2.  never bought a whole car from them, but quite a few parts over the years.  Never a problem.  2 years ago I had them install a new heater core, I was very happy with the work quality.

     

     rust-through:  I guess I don't know what I'm looking at, I see no rust-through.  Also, if the car has been a SoCal car "forever" it probably won't have rust ...... mine doesn't, or if it does, it is still invisible.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  3.  yesterday morning my '74tii and I rolled into a gas station in Santa Ana, there was an awesomely awesome black 633 at a pump.  The owner and I chatted, he lives in San Diego, and it is his third 6-series.  He was flabbergasted that I had owned mine for 38-1/2 years.  He likes to drive different cars, so he buys and sells to get something "different."

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  4.  I'm clueless .....  but in trying to interpret that exploded diagram, it looks like it goes inside the front end of the driveshaft ????

     

     to the best of my short memory, nothing sits in the middle of the guibo.

     

      another view which shows all those parts as an assembly ......

     http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2233&mospid=47141&btnr=26_0136&hg=26&fg=10

     

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  5.  what, you never had a couple of extra sets made ??

     

     way back in 1976 I was in Fresno in July with no spare set.  I used the ignition key as a pry bar ..... and at noon it broke into 2 pieces !!  I got lucky and found a key shop only 1 mile away.  A long hot walk.  The guy was able to make one.  Another long hot walk.  The new key worked.  I drove back and had the guy make me 2 sets (ignition and trunk).

     

     I still have the original ignition key ...... with only 1-1/2 years of wear it is like new, except it is (still) in 2 pieces.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

     

    p.s.  and yes, I keep a spare set hidden on the car, just in case .......

  6. departed the house this July 4th morning about 6:30am.   From Orange County, zoomed up I-5 to the 101 through downtown L.A. then onto the 170 Fwy North to the I-5 North, then the 118 Fwy West into Simi Valley.

     

    One of the 7 Wonders Of The Modern World:  almost no cars on the road !!

     

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  7.  the gear change crunchies ..... 

     

     my red-faced story is that for decades I used Hypoid gear oil in the transmission.  Just last year I finally discovered my error and switched to Redline MTL in the transmission and no more gear change crunchies.

     

     What I learned was that Hypoid is too slippery for a transmission ..... sounds bizarre at best.  BUT, since using a non-hypoid in the trans:  no more crunchies.

     

    http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/135183-manual-transmission-gear-oil-use-the-right-stuff/

     

     

    http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/134648-to-use-redline-mtl-or-not/

     

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  8.  landon,

     

     I have that problem on my passenger door.  My quick "fix" was to put a piece of thick rubber between pin and pillar, this takes out the "pop."  One of these days I'm just gonna weld the bracket to the pillar .... haven't done it yet because I don't want to mess up the paint.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

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