Burleigh

your opinion has no value so shut the fuck up Why all the hostility, son? stop crying and take it like a man Bitch! Just out of curiosity... Are there any moderators on this forum??? This is obviously one person cluttering our threads with nonsense...

There are panels now...what about after 10 years when you regret the decision. Now they cost 700Eur piece. I'm not a good body man but I wouldn't say replacing them is easy. I can say from experience that putting the flares on is easy and cheap, taking them off isn't. And still it will never be original again. Tommy Well, If he saves the very small amount that would be removed, they would be pretty easy to replace. Not like replacing an entire panel as you did...

Guess you're right. I'm used to "Ratsuns"... LOL! It could just be your rubber seal then, but the fact that oil is "showering" like you said, makes me think that there is excessive crank case pressure...

Try replacing your PCV valve. That is what relieves the crank case pressure. The one on your cam cove just vents the head...

That's right! You could eliminate the canister itself, but try to keep that vent hooked up if possible. You will need to run it either to the air cleaner or even PCV if you want... Otherwise you either have the fumes from the tank just venting to the open air, or you cap it off and the fumes vent through the tiny cacks in your filler hose and into your trunk then through the back seat into the cabin!!!

Are there replacement panels still available to replace whatever you cut??? If not, you could easily save what you remove and offer them to any buyer of your car in the future. Any good body man could easily put that body back stock with the correct metal... Imagine what a restorer would do if those areas were rusted through??? That said, I've got a good cut-off wheel you can borrow!!!

LOL!!! Thanks again for the gasket! I'll be installing it tonight...

That's funny, that is the first thing that came to mind, but I didn't have any of them. There were a pile of rags sitting on the work bench next to me as that went through my head though... LOL!

See you there! BTW Skip... "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" -Ben Franklin

Have you tried jumping it? If not, give that a shot and let us know...

HA HA! Thanks! I sent the pics to a friend and he said, I quote: "I'm calling you if I ever break down in the sticks!"

So the starter just goes "click" click" when you turn the key? If so, it could be that your starter froze up or the engine seized... have you checked your oil? This is assuming your battery is good and all connections clean... *Edit: Come to think of it though, you really need to double check your battery, as it sounds like your alternator may have gone bad and couldn't keep the battery charged... Try jumping it with another car and see what happens. Good Luck!

No doubt Skip! Will you be in Rogers this weekend? Even If I don't get the '69 running I'll be there either with someone else or on the bike...

I'm in a hurry to get the '69 back on the road by this weekend for the Rogers meet... With four broken rocker arms and a broken stud in the head it was time to replace it. So I removed the old head and the head from a spare motor I had in the garage. Upon inspecting the head from the spare motor, I was pleased to see that it was a fairly recent rebuilt head. It was very clean with hardly any buildup on the valves and it was pocket ported and gasket matched... The cam looked aftermarket, but not really up to the higher compression, dual Webers, headers and such... SO, I wanted to keep the Shrick 292 cam from the old head. However, having never changed a cam on any BMW engine before, I had to do a little research before getting started. Turns out, you are supposed to have this nifty little tool to move the rockers out of the way while someone else carefully removes the cam. In fact, you have to have at least THREE of the nifty little tools... Needless to say, I don't have ANY of those nifty little tools and I didn't have any extra hands sprout from my sides recently either... So here is what I came up with after thinking about it all day at work. I adjusted all the rockers as you normally would except I tightened them all the way down on the cam. Then I turned the cam until one of the valves was opened all the way and gently stuffed a shop rag between the valve and the valve seat with a flat screw driver. This way when the cam rotated the valve stayed open. I did this four more times on other valves until the cam was free from all valve spring pressures. Obviously you don't have to do all of them as some of the lobes will be facing down while the others are opening valves... Now that I had the cam somewhat free. I backed the valve adjustment all the way off to give even more clearance from the cam. The old cam slid right out and the Shrick slid right in! After securing the new cam, I rotated it to open up all the valves that had rags holding them open and removed the rags one at a time. Here are a couple pics to illistrate:

I aquired two '02's from the get go. (got both in a trade...) One is '69 that was modified slightly and the other is a fairly stock '75 auto car. I had "given" the auto car to my wife, but she never got the nerve up to drive it having always driven newer cars with modern brakes and steering... Regardless, I loved them both and drove whichever one I fancied at the time. However, recently an oportunity arose for me to trade the auto car for a very nice example of a '62 Chevy C10 pickup with a 327 from an SS Impala. Needless to say, I decided to do it. I really do miss the the car (as does my wife), but it went to a very good friend who is giving it a good home too. If giving up one of them to a good home meant the other one getting more and better attention, then I say do it. However, I personaly wouldn't hesitate to get another one or two or three... if the oportunity arose... LOL! Have Fun! Richard

I love those "shaker" hoods! LOL! Very nice sound too!

Sweet! Are you sure you aren't from Arkansas??? LOL!!! That sounds like some serious hillbilly enginuity!!!

The bolts you need to remove are right on the face of the flywheel so you don't have much further to go... I'm not really too sure that will work out, but I guess it's worth a shot anyhow.

Can you get it out far enough to access the clutch pressure plate bolts? You might be able to get them out and pull eveything at once and then work on getting the cluch off??? I had trouble with a 5speed once that was hanging up on the streering linkage. I had to pull it and the headers to get the tranny out... Good luck!

Yeah, I'll be inspecting everthing well before comencing. From the sounds of it, the car is not in the best shape, but I'll snap a bunch of pics.

I'll tell you what. If/when this begins I will start a build thread on it and keep a running tab on the actual dollar amount spent on it. I won't keep track of my time because I might loose my mind f I did... I think that some of you may be surprised at the cost. I know it won't be cheap, but I think it'll be somewhat less than expected. If I do an trading for parts or pieces I'll try to figure the actual dollar amount I had in the trade and not the value of the item I traded... However, as of now I am just waiting to hear when we can pick the car up... Also, from the sounds of things, you guys may be right. Apparently, the owner of the car says that it is a euro model... So we may be talking about an M88 swap here! Fine with me! Cheers!!

Oh I'm gonna do it for sure! This has been some great discussion. That is exactly what I was wanting. Thanks for the links too they have been inspiring! Keep it coming!!!

Well I figured I'd just pull the entire drivetrain from the car and start measuring... Yeah I don't think I'd even be considering this if the car was in better shape... The fenders have already been cut and turbo flares added along with the turbo airdam. The front panel was pretty well crunched and slopily repaired before I got it, then recently someone backed into the front again! So I will likely be cutting the whole front panel off and installing one that is in much better shape. I may also have access to a carbon hood (Andy???). With the front panel off I figured it would be the perfect oportunity to start an engine swap that involves major cut and pasting... So are you cutting the fire wall???

Can you weld??? I've had decent luck welding cast exhaust manifolds... Some do better than other. It has a lot to do with the alloy they used... Otherwise, if it's only temporary, I don't see why you shouldn't try the JB weld. If it falls off, it falls off. Good luck!

I'm with you guys on the suspension and handling issues. This isn't my first engine swap rodeo... I'm in the process of building a 650+ hp small block chevy 383 powered Datsun 240z with a full coil over suspension and huge 13" discs with big Wilwoods at all four corners. Just swaped a 200ish hp KA24DE from a '96 Nissan 240SX into a tiny 1981 Datsun 210... Anyway, I'm not under the impression that I'll just shove the monster motor under the hood and go have fun. I'm fully aware of the additional work and engineering that will be involved. So did you opt to cut the firewall? Or are you pushing the core forward??? Anyone got pics of a cut firewall? I think that is what I'll do. The transaxle idea is a good one too, but I think I'll take my chances with the tranny/diff setup just to keep cost down for now. I can always go back and do something like that if I'm not happy... Yes, I actually own and run a fairly well equiped metal fabrication/performance motorsports shop in Bentinville, AR named ClockWise MotorSports... Thanks for all the input guys!