flipper

many thanks, once again. the parts are on their way ...

if this is it, there we go, and thanks a bunch for tracking down the right number -- appreciated mucho! do the things that look like bushings in the bolt holes stand proud of the gasket and need to be sanded down or are they flat against it? btw/ amazon sells these too, as well as the manifold gasket set. free shipping if you're a prime member (which i am) and no tax ...

Sweet! Thanks!!! edit: I can't find that part number at either autozone or napa. could you recheck it for me? thanks!

I need a base gasket for a weber 32/36 carb. I know they're only a couple of bucks online but the shipping is what kills it for me. Anybody have a spare they want to unload for whatever + the cost of a stamp? Hey, If you've got a few new intake manifold gaskets hanging around, I'd take those off your hands too!

thanks, toby. btw/ do you or does anyone know where i can buy the intake gaskets and the weber base gasket at the same place. so far i can find one or the other but not both .... meanwhile, in an earlier thread of mine, i identified my carb as a DGAV, since that's what the receipt says and what a piece of metal on the carb says. Then someone posted saying nope, it's a DGEV. So, how can i tell which it is? And in terms of what i'm up to now, does it make a difference?

this came from 02restoration.com: "After trying all kinds of tools to get the oil filter off my BMW Tii, I found the ideal tool for the job. "I tried modified oil filter wrenches, channel lock pliers, a screwdriver through the filter, and God knows what. Then I found the ideal thing. Try a "can lid twister-offer." The one your wife uses to get lids off jars and cans. "I bought mine at a local dime store for 39¢ and it works perfect every time. You take the filter off from the underside with the device. It grips the filter great."

thanks again. i think i'm going to go with a regular manifold. now ... do i need four of the same intake gaskets or three of one kind, one of a different kind?

I went to Ireland and, frankly, I have no idea what to buy. I'm that clueless. I don't even know what to search for. And it didn't seem all that self explanatory to me. Can you offer any suggestions? Maybe there's a kit that's appropriate?

pike: wow, that's a thing of beauty ... and something for me to strive for. as to the maniforld leak, see the pic below for a nasty weld on it that's cracked and leaking. rather than reweld it or jb weld it, i'm getting a replacement manifold from tom 02 along with a backing plate. where's the best place to order gaskets from?

Due to vacuum leaks, I'm going to replace my intake manifold. I know to get a new gasket for that and a new base gasket for the weber 32/36. But what else? I'm not going to rebuild the carb -- don't have the guts n skills for that, yet -- but anything else I ought to do, I'll do. So: what else should I get, in the way of gaskets, nuts, bolts, parts, etc. etc? I'm also going to try to get rid of all the emission crud while I'm at it. Lastly, is there a single source for the stuff I need, so I can save on the dreaded shipping charges? Thanks!

ha! rhode island plates, the ocean state -- and my state. if you're not going back, let me know where that rust bucket is and i'll go plunder the rest!

rob: i can see all the pix, and they're terrific. maybe next year i can limp along in your exhaust trail and make it there myself! good job, great viewing, thanks! erik

Thanks, guys. I've attached a picture of my manifold, where you can see the bad weld to the far left. How 'bout thems for a lot of hoses? I wonder how many I can do away with. Anyway, what's involved with hogging out. Is that something a machine shop does? And what else should I get a shop to do while I'm there?

I've got a vacuum leak on the intake manifold of my 76 02, due to a crappy welding job the PO did. I've got two choices, I think: 1/ JB Weld it ... (and how bad an idea is that?) 2/ Try to find a used replacement. My first question is, what do I look for? The car has a 32/36 Weber carb on it. That needs to be specified, right? Anything else? Also, how much should I expect to pay? Would this one be appropriate, on eBay? http://tiny.cc/aeyfj thanks again for all the help.

Thanks for the update w/ pic, Toby. I haven't checked to see if all this is the cause but with the info here I was able to search more thoroughly on the FAQ for references to the clicking clutch. For future searchers, here's a cut-and-paste of what I found: Didja lube the end of the clutch slave cylinder pushrod (that engages the withdrawal fork holding the throwout bearing). Bet it's dry as a bone! xxxxxxxxxxxxx Crawl under the car on the driver's side and spot the clutch slave cylinder--it's fastened to the edge of the tranny bellhousing and has a hydraulic hose coming out it's back end. Coming out the other end is a steel pushrod. The exposed end of the pushrod (adjustable for length on VINs 1665199 and earlier,not adjustable on later cars) is mushroom-shaped, and fits into a cup-shaped depression on the outer end of the clutch withdrawal fork (other end holds the throwout bearing). Grease the cup/mushroom with Nevr-Sieze/Molykote or other long-lasting grease. That may not be your problem, but it'll make the clutch action smoother and prevent the withdrawal fork from wearing out. xxxxxxxxxxxx Common problem, if it is one click as you depress the clutch. You can easily fix it by getting underneath with some axle grease and putting some where the clutch rod contacts the metal piece that goes in to the tranny - rotate the rod 100 degrees while you are there. It's best to get underneath and have someone else pump the clutch pedal while you watch and listen... as it could be a lot of things I had a click, and it was the slave cylinder sliding in its bore in the bellhousing because the shim behind the snap ring was missing. xxxxxxxxxxxxxx Look carefully at the clutch pedal linkage for worn or breaking parts. xxxxxxxxxxxxxx If the click isn't in the pedal assembly, it is fairly common to develop a click between the pushrod and clutch lever. That's a pretty easy fix: work a little grease between the pushrod and clutch arm and twist the pushrod a little so that it contacts the arm with a different surface. xxxxxxxxxxxxxx the spring on the clutch pedal can break, and the parts will click as they slide against each other. One more thing to look for.. xxxxxxxxxxxxxx thanks all!

thanks, toby!

okay, thanks, i'll check out my fixit manuals, look up some definitions, and see if i can see where these things are. is it okay to continue driving the car?

Unlike the one previous 'clicking clutch' thread I could find, mine clicks when I let up on the clutch, not when I'm pressing it in. Just started happening 20 minutes ago, after a morning of fine driving. Crap. The clicking occurs in the same spot, about 1/4 way from the beginning of where I let up. Does it whether the car is running or turned off. 76 02. Sigh. Suggestions about what the prob is and what to do about it? (and if anybody wants to tackle my wiper-motor thread that's down about 17 lines -- feel free and be my guest!!!)

Okay, here's a picture of my wiper motor's control plate. Now, how do I clean it? One search here found this: "Clean with solvent and re-lube with Vasoline." That's good, as far as it goes, but for me it doesn't go far enough. 1/ Solvent. I have some laquer thinner. Does that qualify? 2/ Clean: just clean the surface of the plate as you see it? It's got a glob of grease in one area. So, do I get that off, as well as everything else on the surface? 3/ Re-lube: am I re-lubing the surface? How much lube do I put on? Where do I put it? Do I put a glob back where the previous glob was? 4/ Other instructions mention putting a few dabs of grease on the worm gear. What's a worm gear? And where is it? I don't see no stinkin' worm gear! I guess that's it for now. Part 2 will come later, after I remove the motor from its case .... Thanks!

i kind of started to do that but it seemed to me that something was compressing beneath my screw driver, so i stopped. maybe i'll just continue. can't turn back now! edit: applied more elbow grease and off it popped. thanks for giving me permission! meanwhile, i forgot to mark the spline, etc., better watch those flying wiper blades on re-assembly! meanwhile, pt 2, a new issue. I took the four screws off the gear housing. Now what am I supposed to do? The two wires that go from the housing to the motor are stiff and I'm afraid if I bend em, I'm going to bust the solder joint on the housing, which looks pretty flimsy as it is. Suggestions?

All screws out of the holding assembly for the wiper motor and the wiper blade assembly -- only the wiper assembly seems to be stuck on the spline coming up from the motor. i can't shake the sucker loose. i've WD40d it, no luck. Any suggestions? have i gone about this all wrong? edit: scroll down for more questions ...

thanks, but just to be clear: both the hole and the tube are ok the way they are?

The first picture is self explanatory -- should that hole be open like that? The second two are of a hose that I don't know what it does. It's connected to this round thing (like a large film cannister) with one wire going to the alternator. Anyway, it's got this hose coming off as you see that's not connected to anything on the other end. The hose is cracked and needs to be replaced. But is it suppose to be hanging unconnected and loose like that? Thanks once again ...

thanks, guys, doesn't sound that difficult (ha ha) and i'll add it to my list of fixes to try myself. bueno!