flipper

1/ lean or rich: have not tried the plug diagnosis but i have used the idle mixture screw to run it both leaner and richer and the bucking occurs either way. 2/ i am presuming that the primary side is the side that opens all the way. in the pix below, that'd be the barrel on the *left* side. well, when i work the linkage, i get *no* squirt on that side. it's all in the other barrel, the one on the right in the pic, which i'm assuming is the second barrel. 3/ Under acceleration, the left throttle plate opens up to a vertical position, while the right throttle plate, when floored, opens up only about a third of the way, as kind of seen in the picture if you click on it to make it larger. I think it's opening progressively but it's sort of hard to tell; at the very least I can tell it's not opening simultaneously with the left plate. so, okay, unless i've lost my marbles, the squirt is going into the wrong chamber. could that be possible? if so, how do i fix that? sheesh!

Step hard on the gas just a little and she hesitates, bucks, stutters, whatever you want to call it, and then smooths out. Started doing this when some bozo (not me for a change!) installed new intake manifold to get rid of vacuum leaks from the old. car is 76 w/ weber 32 36 and crane xr700 So far I have: changed plugs and wires; set and reset the timing; sucked on the dizzy vacuum tube and gotten vacuum, as well as movement from the doohicky inside the dizzy if i sucked REAL hard; reset the weber float level; messed constantly with all the Weber screw settings as per redline's instructions; cleaned the primary jet; checked for vacuum leaks (none); etc etc ad nauseam ad infinitum. what should i try as a next? one thing i noticed yesterday is, starting w/ a cold motor, when i worked the throttle all the way, the *lower* butterfly on the primary barrel of the Weber opened all the way, but the other butterfly, on the second barrel, opened only 1/4 to 1/3 of the way. if it's supposed to open to vertical just like the primary one, how can i adjust it? any other thoughts and/or suggestions? it seems to me it should be something that the manifold-replacing mechanic dude could have messed up while doing the replacement. i stood over him and watched while he did the replacement and saw nothing obvious happen. but on my test drive right after the new manifold was installed, thar she bucked. so, whatever happened had to have happened during those two hours. (btw/ when i turned around and brought the car back to the shop, the boss man took a drive, got a good feel for the bucking, and said .... "How do I know it wasn't doing that before?" as it happens, my town is filled w/ turds like that!)

post a picture -- that'd be great. meanwhile, i went ahead and set the timing using the front pulley. seemed to work ok. but i still can't see the ball in the wee window... anyway, thanks, all, for your help!

thanks. i missed that thread from last week, but i don't know how much help it is anyway, since i can't get my head angled right to see down the hole. and, yes, i am standing on the driver's side! if the other way works just as well and is so much easier and more convenient, why isn't everybody doing it that way anyhow?

thanks. main problem with the bb is i can't get my bulbous head far enough over the hole to see down inside. plus i don't know what i'm looking for. plus i'm sweating bullets and my eyes are stinging with salt water. doing it by the pulley -- am i right in saying to set the light to a positive 25 degrees? thanks again.

I'm trying to get my timing right w/ a timing light but for the life o me, i can't see that stupid little bb-sized ball i'm supposed to see. i've even had a pal with better eyes come over and he can't find it either. okay ... but what about this? couldn't i do the same thing with the timing marks on the pulley up front? here's what i'm thinking. i've got a 76 w/ weber carbs and crane ignition, if it makes a difference. anyway, my understanding is that the bb ball is set at 25 degrees BTDC. Couldn't I set my digital timing light to 25 degrees BTDC, set the car to idle at 1,400 rpm, and shoot the light at the up-front pulley, start jimmying w/ the dizzy, and set my timing that way? i guess it wouldn't be as accurate, but given i can't see the ball at all, might it not be the next best thing? or is my logic totally fudged? tia, as usual!

beautiful, scott, thanks for all the pix. man!

okay, did the suck test and i think i failed. first of all, it's got the crane xr700 electronic ignition stuff in the dizzy. but i sucked and got no movement. i puffed and sucked a few times and saw a *flicker* of movement once, then no more. going back and forth like that, i could hear the diaphram making an in out noise (i guess that's what it is). and it did feel like i was getting suction on the sucking ... so, what do you surmise from this?

no need to post the link to the redline instructions; i've gone over em time and again to no avail. i think something else is wrong or way out of tune that's got to be made right before the redline steps will work. i just don't know what that something is. Nope, no FAQers in the immediate area ... i'll do the suck test and report back ... thanks!

actually, i take back what i said earlier. it's now running marginally worse, not better. when cold i see fuel squirting on the one side. but hot or cold i've never seen it squirting from the other side. could zat be the problem? also: the idle doesn't kick down. hot or cold, it idles at around 1100 - 1200 rpm. i know that's wrong but i don't know how to fix or diagnosis it and searching here hasn't helped. mainly the searches have produced things like, make sure it kicks down, if it doesn't, fix it. which to me is along the lines of, cook until done. can anyone offer a step-by-step 1-2-3 idiots guide to diagnosing the problem?

okay, i'll start battening down the hatches and making sure everything is tight. thanks again!

no vacuum leaks that i can see, tested all the way around. as to the linkage, i don't know what diff binding would make but I just wanted to make sure the nut wasn't overtightened and see if that made any changes. so, i did that. then i messed around with the various idle screws and it's running marginally better. i wish i knew what i did to do that, so i could do it some more. sheesh.

thanks, guys. yup, i can hear it while standing over the motor, only i can't locate it. it started when the intake manifold was swapped. ever since, buzzing. any likely sources of buzz given that bit of additional info?

Whenever I pass 2k - 2.2k rpm I get some kind of metallic buzzing noise coming out of the engine bay. I get it going up and going down the band. It's consistent, happens every time. What could it be now and what can I do about it? Thanks!!

I have to bend up that metal tab first, right? I've tried unscrewing that piece along and just succeed in moving the throttle up and down. --- I don't think there's a cotter pin in the ball but I'll go have another look...

In my never ending quest to figure out why my car stumbles and hesitates so badly whenever I stomp even mildly on the gas, I'm going to check my Weber 32/36 throttle linkage and see if it's binding, but I don't know how to even take it apart. See pix. Do I bend that metal tab up and then unscrew the long not thing? And if you do that often enuf, won't the tab break off? And when people (and Weber) talk about not overtightening the nut, what nut are they talking about? That long nut? And in some diagrams I see a circlip but in my linkage I don't see no stinkin' circlip, do you? Am I missing one? And, finally, if'n when I get the thing apart, how do I in fact check that it's not binding? TIA!

Sounds good, Ian. That's how I'll play it. Wish I'd heard about this magic formula earlier! I already bought something called Corrosionx for aircraft and I plan on spraying the undercarriage with that. Maybe I'll do the Porsche w/ the Dexron mix. Thanks again, all!

thanks, guys, very good and helpful stuff ... for the most part, ha ha. i do have the bavauto ultimate cover, so i guess i'm covered, ho ho, there. okay, as a minor hassle, i could keep the car on pavement but how bad would gravel and packed dirt be? probably not so good. the 76 porsche, by the way, has 58k miles on it and does indeed have a glorified vdub motor in it. very cool car. chocolate brown. that said, i love my 02 equally; only she's worth far less, so out in the open she must stay. sigh. and now, here she is, whoa, Brown Betty (bam-BA-lam)!

In a week or two, I'm going to take possession of a 76 Porsche and I have no choice but to give it my single garage space. That leaves me w/ a quandry concerning my 76 02. I can either keep it outside under a cover (I have the Bavauto one that everybody likes) or, shudder, sell it, shudder shudder. What would be the advice here? If I keep it, and I really want to, it'd only be outside under cover for the summer driving months. I have indoor storage available to me for the salt and snow months but it's the kind of deal where you've got to leave it and can't be picking it up all the time. So, what do you think? Fact: I live along the coast in RI, if that makes a diff ... P.S. I'd rather sell it than do damage to it ... fyi.

but at least you tried. and for that, i thank you!

thanks, guys. uh, madness has already set in; now i'm just trying to dial it down. i mean, i don't even if the fast idle adj screw is what i need to be dealing with, given my particular Weber issues, but i think I'll have fun finding out! More questions later. Of course.

I'm talking about the damn-near-invisible screw just to the right and kinda under the electric choke on my DGEV 32/36 Weber Carb. I finally found it and saw it clearly today for the first time ever, by using a flashlight in a dark garage. That made all the different. Man, is that thing hidden! Anyway, I've been trying to figure out how to adjust it by reading here and from Redline's instructions and I think I understand what to do but I thought I'd write it down here to clarify it in my own pea brain and to see if you guys can set me straight if I've got it wrong. Basically, there are two methods, the hot method and the cold method. 1/ Cold: With the car cold, and the key on but the car not started [DGEV only], hit the throttle once to close the butterfly plates. Look at the screw's position against the cam and screw the screw in or out depending on whether you want to raise the RMPs or lower them. Go drive. See what the change has wrought. Rinse and repeat til satisfied. 2/ Hot (as a continuation of above or as a first step). This is the Redline method. Warm up the car, turn it off, open the throttle and manually engage the butterflies to close them. Let go of the throttle and they should stay closed. Look at the screw. It should be touching the cam. Turn on the engine. Do not blip the throttle or it will disengage the butterflies. Go back to screw, turn in to increase speed, out to decrease. If I've got it right, it seems to me both methods are accomplishing the same thing. The advantage to the hot method is you can hear the rpms going up and down. the disadvantage to the hot method is, the way that screw is hidden, you're likely to burn yourself trying to get at it. Or at least I am. So, what do you think? Have I finally gotten this through my thick skull? Whew!

Thanks! But I'm pretty sure the car already goes to the dealer, so Im trying to steer clear. Know anything about the indy shops, good or bad?

A search here didn't turn up any recommendations for an indy shop to do a PPI in Santa Fe ... so does anyone know of one? I'd like to get the owner to go to Albequerque (sp?) but he doesn't really want to. The two shops I can turn up in Santa Fe are Automotive Resources and a place called Rex Goes Racing (aka European Automotive, I think). Anyone have any experience w/ either of them or know of any others? Thanks!

thanks!