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kstrause

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  1. kstrause
    I also undertook the project using the FAQ. I can see where it seems intimidating and at first it was. I wish I had done it when I was redoing the car and the dash and the rest of the interior was out, but I didn't and it wasn't. It's kind of a pain laying on your back disconnecting the vent and heater cables and taking the box out. But that's really the hardest part next to putting it all back in. As I recall pulling it down and towards the passenger side was the way to go. Once out you'll see it's all pretty straightforward. Just be careful slipping off the three clips that hold the box together. The plastic has most likely gotten quite brittle over the years. That's especially true for the flimsy mount used to hold the heater valve onto the box. I ended fabricating a piece of aluminum and JB Welding it to the cracked mount. Once the fan motor is out there's not a whole lot you can do with it except lubricate it. As I recall its very difficult to rebuild since the housing parts are crimped together. Just take your time and tackle it in little bits. It will all go back together. Kurt Strause
  2. kstrause
    Make the FAQ your friend: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/73/32/ It's one of those jobs that seems to uncover several unforeseen issues: the blower motor condition, the heater valve, the condition of the heater core, the plastic case itself, in addition to the seals on the flaps inside the box and all those little grommets. Good luck. Kurt Strause
  3. kstrause
    Thanks for both the offers. I'd love a road trip either to Rochester or Ontario, but both are a little far right now (especially with a dodgy rear end). Kurt Strause
  4. kstrause
    Looking for a good condition stock differential. I live in south central PA and will drive a bit to pick it up. Thanks. Kurt Strause
  5. kstrause
    Oops, message deleted because I didn't fully read c.d.'s reminder to unplug vacuum hoses. Kurt Strause
  6. kstrause
    I thought I would just attend. I've never officially shown my car. I "restored" it just to be a driver, but I take it this is a pretty low-key event so I just might take the plunge and see what the judges say. Here's a picture of it sitting next to a couple of other '02's at Carlisle, and then one of the interior. Kurt Strause
  7. kstrause
    I'm planning on going. Kurt Strause
  8. kstrause
    If this question is ignorant please forgive me. I'm not very mechanically inclined. I attended a workshop at Import Carlisle with a technician giving a lecture on Weber carbs. He said he liked venting the crankcase through a PCV valve into the intake manifold, instead of the air cleaner on the carburetor. So, it got me to thinking how I would do that. There's currently a vacuum line going to the brake booster from the manifold, which has a check valve in the line. Could I run a vacuum tube from the crankcase through a PCV valve to a "T" connector to the manifold with the other side of the T going to the brake booster (with the check valve between the "T" and the brake booster)? Does this make sense? What are the drawbacks? I should note that all emissions control equipment has been long removed and the crankcase is currently vented to the ground. Kurt Strause
  9. kstrause
    Mid-Atlantic All-German Automotive Event held at Fleetwood Park just north of Reading, Pa. Saturday, July 10 from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. US-222 north of Reading to Route 662 South. 333 West Main Street, Fleetwood, PA There will be a swap meet, judged car show, club displays, BBQ chicken dinner, live blues band, European+auto auction, ladies in jeans, vendors and more. More information: www.deutscheclassic.com
  10. kstrause
    I was there for the first time with my '02 making its public car-show debut. Met a couple of nice folks and stopped by c.d. iesel's stand under the grandstand. Here's a pic of my car (the Nevada) nest to a couple of others. I want to drive to V@V, but can't work it into my schedule this year. Maybe next. Kurt
  11. kstrause
    Got my showfield admission last week as I'm planning to debut my 72 that I've been working on for the past three years. So far, I've been a "stealth" member of the 02 community but now its time to bring my car out into the light of day. I want to find out about Nittany Bimmers, and meet some other 02 owners. I plan to be there Friday, and maybe come back over on Saturday. Kurt Strause
  12. kstrause
    My local automotive paint store (PPG products) had the formula for mixing the proper color in lacquer, in my case Nevada. But since I wanted base coat/clear coat they mixed up a half pint of lacquer which I took home and sprayed on a test card. I then took the card into the shop and they matched it in BC/CC. But I did that because I was painting the whole car and not trying to blend into any existing paint. If you're trying to do that best to take the car to the shop and let them use their spectometer and match it to the color that's actually on the car. Kurt
  13. kstrause
    Yesterday I was driving my 72 and it developed a rhythmic clunking sound coming from underneath and outside the car. I first noticed it when I pushed in the clutch pedal. The noise slowed as the car slowed in speed. It disappears when I put into gear and accelerate, but reappears when I slow down, even in gear. Tomorrow I will put the car into the garage where I can jack it up and take a look underneath, but I'm hoping for some pointers as to what might be the most likely culprit. And, since the garage I'm going to be working in is a few miles from where the car is now I'm wondering if its safe to drive. Kurt Strause
  14. kstrause
    Thank you very much. I'm always in awe about the information that's lurking out there. Kurt
  15. kstrause
    There is a diaphragm with a vacuum line. I believe that's the only one. Kurt
  16. kstrause
    I want to install a Pertronix, but I'm not sure which distributor I have. A PO told me he put in a tii dizzy but I'm not sure from what year. My car is a 72 carb. The current distributor has this code on the side: 0 231 115 081 and then below the numbers: JFUR4. The numbers don't match up to anything on RealOEM from what I can tell. I tried to upload a couple of pics but it didn't work. I'll try again, but maybe someone can help with the description I gave. Thanks. Kurt Strause
  17. kstrause
    If the set is going to be broken up, I'll take the other rear. Kurt Strause kstrause at verizon dot net
  18. kstrause
    Keep thinking of the day when you will finally sit behind the wheel, start her up and take her for a drive. It took me three years to get to that point, and I didn't even do an engine rebuild like you're doing. But I did need to learn to weld, and prep and paint. That's what took the longest because I'd never done it before and the learning curve is steep. There were set backs along the way (like the day my entire clear coat wrinkled and I had to sand it off and start over!). But I just kept plugging away because what's the alternative? Letting the lump sit there or trying to find a buyer for a bunch of parts scattered in boxes? This forum was heaven-sent, even for one who mostly lurks like me. Just listening in to the conversations has been invaluable. http://picasaweb.google.com/kss7202/Blog02?authkey=Gv1sRgCODGuZnG-pr_-gE# Kurt Strause
  19. kstrause
    The serial number on the 64 Pontiac trade-in indicates it was a Tempest. Maybe this is it: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1192994868010957762pulfwM Kurt Strause
  20. kstrause
    And yours even has windshield wipers!
  21. kstrause
    Anyone know it? http://www.barrett-jackson.com/application/onlinesubmission/lotdetails.aspx?aid=304&ln=316&pop=0&it=1
  22. kstrause
    The one part of this rebuild process that intimidated me the most has come to pass; rebuilding the heater box. I read the FAQ (extremely helpful), and everything is proceeding along nicely until I pulled out the heater control valve and discover that the lever is missing. The valve itself looks good, operates smoothly and the few times I had the car running didn't leak. Its been cool this fall and early winter and had the control calling for heat so I just assumed it was working properly. So, to make a long question into a short one, can I buy just the lever? Does anyone have one? Thanks. Kurt Strause
  23. kstrause
    I bought mine here: http://www.rochfordsupply.com/product_listing.asp_Q_CatID_E_411_A_SubCatID_E_449_A_ProdID_E_3368 58 cents a foot. It's not the OEM basketweave pattern, more of a textured mottled look, but still close enough and the price was right. Kurt Strause
  24. kstrause
    When I put a new headliner in I glued some 1/2" closed cell foam to the roof using the strong 3M adhesive. I figured if it ever comes off it won't hurt the headliner. Kurt Strause
  25. kstrause
    The story must be all too familiar. Hit age 50, think "I need to try something new." I've always loved classic cars, but only from a distance. I thought long and hard about what might be a car that was fun, practical, fairly easy to work on, somewhat "outside the box," but with a good supply of parts and knowledge. The '02 was high on the list and emerged as number 1 when this one came up locally. It had great documentation, needed mostly body work, and I thought "one year, maybe two and it will be on the road." Three years later I'm just about ready to light it up again for the first time since I bought it. Along the way I discovered a great web site with tons of helpful and friendly participants. Over the years I've posted the odd question and always got great advice. But mostly I've been lurking, reading and taking it all in. I've learned as much by reading the FAQ as I have working on the car. Anyway, here's my application to the fraternity, rescuing one that might have eventually gone the way of all good things: http://picasaweb.google.com/kss7202/Blog02?authkey=Gv1sRgCODGuZnG-pr_-gE# Kurt Strause still a '72 Nevada project
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