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2002

Solex
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Everything posted by 2002

  1. The plastic line running through the cabin is the main fuel feed to the filter then to the fuel pump on later models. The metal line on the bottom of the car is the return line. The return line was designed in on later versions to prevent vapor lock.
  2. Here's a pic showing the rectangular hole: It is from www.my2002tii.com I suppose the hole is to let the brake fluid leak out when the clutch master cylinder gives up. There is no official BMW plug. You could weld on a sheet metal patch. The good cosmetic thing to do is to replace the foam cover - it will stop the draft from blowing in, and let brake fluid leak out when there is a problem.
  3. The switch that controls the power to the pump solenoid is usually the fan speed switch. Then through you thermostat, which I think is what you called the cold switch. From there the power travels to a relay. ANd then the relay supplies power from +12 Volts to the pump solenoid. You may have a stuck relay or a bad switch somewhere in the circuit. Anyway, with the fan switch 'off' position the pump solenoid should never engage the pump to the pulley.
  4. Also, any non-pumice handcleaner works well. Just scrub it on and wash it away.
  5. I don't have any magic solutions, but time and patience eventually worked for me. I used magnets, string, mirrors, and a little smoke from my ears! I sympathize with you. Good luck.
  6. buy a brand new one form these guys: http://www.wallothnesch.com/ Their cost is very close to a repair at many U.S. VDO specialists. I just ordered one for my '76 today. They said it will arrive in 10 days!
  7. Check out: http://www.bayarea02.com/events/events.html#7 There will probably be a drive afterword. You can meet many of the BayArea02 group at the tech session.
  8. Turns out to be a bad crimp on the red lead to the Pertronix connected to the coil. I soldered the contact to the wire and no more trouble. Too bad Pertronix uses such bad connectors. They ruin their reputation that way.
  9. I have recently installed a tii mechanical advance distributor and Petronix electronic points system on my '76 2002. The engine runs fine, but the tach now rapidly wanders around (up to 5000) when RPMs are above 3000. Anybody seen this and know what to do?
  10. Use a Clardy console, their fan system works the best of the three. If you go to a Sanden compressor you can adapt it to a York compressor bracket either by welding on adapter plates or buying a adapter kit. Be prepred to spend some money on all the fittings, hoses, etc.
  11. Sometimes the emergency brake lever, the one riveted onto the rear shoe, gets stuck on the the W spring and won't let the brake release. If that is the case you can grind the end of the hook on the emergency brake lever so it doesn't interfere.
  12. Look on the back of the brake plate. You will find two hex heads. Turn them with a 17 mm wrench until the drum turns more easily. If the adjusters are stuck you might need to apply some liquid wrench or some other rust remover.
  13. One thing I've done before installation is to disassemble the master cylinder and make sure all of the seals are oriented correctly. If you have some brake cylinder lube use it to reassemble the master cyclinder. When replacing the master cylinder attach the brake lines before bolting the cylinder assembly to the brake booster. The brake lines have some spring in them that make it dufficult to get them lined up if the master cylinder is in its final resting place. After the lines are attached, with there threaded nuts started, tighten the nuts that hold the cylinder to the booster. Then tighten the brake line nuts. It helps if use a 11 mm flare nut tool too, but not absolutely necessary. Have fun!
  14. Just checked two drive shafts in my workshop. The recessed side of the center support is towards the transmission, and the rounded rubber is closest to the center u-joint. Make sure you put the shaft halfs back together as they were before the nut was removed or the drive shaft will be out of balance.
  15. Check this link for details: http://www.bayarea02.com/techtips/320_wheel/index.html The roundel on the 320i wheel needs to be carefully removed to gain access to the nut area. Be careful not to scratch it.
  16. The brake switch closes (goes on) when there is a significant pressure difference between the two sides of the duel hydraulic system for the front calipers. If that happens the switch closes and is supposed to turn on the brake warning light on the dash. On a '76 two other things turn on the light as well: the low brake fluid switch or the parking brake being set. One thing to determine before resetting the switch is what caused the switch to be turned on, usually it goes on when one is bleeding the brake fluid, or there is some sort of leak in the braking system. To reset the switch find it below the brake fluid reservoir. You will notice it is has several brake lines going to and from it, and has a pair if wires attached. Right between the wires is the switch. Originally there was a small rubber boot over the switch. Under the boot a small square piece of plastic extend when the switch is on. To reset the switch push the plastic back into the switch. If all else is working the brake warning light should not be on. Sometimes the plunger inside the switch gets stuck and needs to be freed. To do this one can disassemble the switch, clean it and try again. An interesting device the brake warning switch! Have fun and let us know how the solution to your problem.
  17. find a place that grinds cranks and ask them if they have a pilot bearing puller tool. Since you can transport the engine to them they will probably do it for cheap. That's they way I had my last one removed. They did it for free since I brought the bare crank into their shop, but I am a semi-regular customer. YMMV.
  18. after you gently remove the door panel from the door. There are several spring metal clips along the top edge of the door. They connect the door panel to the aluminum strip and window felt. After you get the door panel off you can 'release' the clip with a small flat blade screw driver. After you bend the your aluminum strip you usually can figure out how to do it correctly in the future!
  19. so I can do an exhaust manifold switch on Monday. Removing the Thermal Reactor from the Inka '76 and replacing with a cast iron exhaust manifold w/o any smog holes in it. I expect the engine will have more performance afterwards.
  20. This is a very hard bearing to remove without a good bearing removal tool. The last time mine was removed I took the crank to a machine shop and had it done. They had a tool similar to the BavAuto tool, and it came out in several pieces. If the crank is still in the engine and/or in the car your options are limited. I would not recommend pushing the bearing further into the crank, that make make it near to imposible to remove. Sorry for the bad news.
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