Slavs

I don't what's worse, e9 propaganda or NATO propaganda. But, we'll agree to disagree.

I'm sorry, but I don't by into that. It sounds like e9 propaganda trying to suggest that the Scirocco Petri wheel is different in that its leather is from the cow's ass while the e9 Petri wheel's leather is from the cow's back or something to that extent. As far as foam is concerned, it gets affected by the heat over the decades. The factory producing these Petri wheels did not care or know on to which car any particular wheel would be mounted. That's my take on the matter.

Many Alfas also use the identical single piston caliper.

What is different about them ?

The Petri steering wheel sought after by many e9 coupe owners along with some 02 pilots was stock equipment on some early VW Sciroccos. So, some of you e9 snobs are not so elite after all.

I got this idea during a discussion in another thread. Our 02s and classic BMWs have parts in common with other marques. I know of a handfull off the top of my head, but I will start by listing one: The single brake master cylinder and reservoir to the 1968 2002 and early 1969 1600-2 with single circuit brakes; It is also shared by many Alfas from the late 60s and 70s. The fluid reservoir is also identical and is used by some Italian exotics such as Ferrari and Maserati. It is fitted with either a plastic or metal screw on cap. This master is also used on the 1977-83 BMW 320i, but with a different fluid reservoir. When using the 320i master you must also use the corresponding 320i fluid reservoir because the 320 master has larger openings for larger rubber grommets into which the reservoir is fitted. And, with the 320i master the fluid reservoir cap has a different attachment for the fluid level warning light. Otherwise the master is identical. The last three two pics are of the 320i master and reservoir with the larger grommets.

I started hoarding those switches a long time ago because I went through so many of them when I drove my cars on a daily basis. They were among the first things I would grab at the self service junk yards when 02s were plentiful during that bygone era. They also cost only a $1 or $2 each at those places. Most of the failures were mechanical where the plastic wore out. However, I also experienced an electrical failure with one of them. And, it was scary. I had just arrived to work where I parked in the large parking lot 22 years ago. And, after parking and turning off the ignition I noticed smoke coming from underneath the steering column. I just about started panicking because the ignition was off and I even removed the key. I then quickly jumped out, opened the hood and detached the positive cable from the battery. This was an electrical fire and the odor from the smoke was sharp and caustic. When I looked underneath the column I noticed the switch had started melting. Some of the wires were also getting charred. By this time I already had 18 years experience using the 02 as a daily driver. And, I always carry an extra ignition switch in my toolkit. A couple of screw drivers along with a 10mm and 13mm wrench are always at arms reach. So, I just removed the old switch and installed the spare and everything worked normally. A couple of the wires are still charred as a reminder of that experience. As far as the Ferrari guys buying these switches, I believe it. I used run into some of their mechanics at the junk yards who were scavenging parts from Fiats and Alfas also used on Ferraris, Lancias and Lamborghinis. The small Carello side marker reflectors come to mind. They also cost only a $1 or $2 at those yards. I can only imagine what those mechanics were charging their customers for them. And, then there were the door handles common to some Fiats, Alfas and Ferraris. Those were $5 each. Those yards were a goldmine. OK ! I'm going off tangent. We should start a thread about parts shared between 02s, classic BMWs and other marques.

I have an early 67 and an early 69 1600-2. I also had a 68 1600-2 and a 68 2002. All the cars mentioned have the long neck diff. I've never owned an 02 with a short neck diff. I consider those as newer 02s, not my cup of tea. 1. The 67 1600-2 and 68 1600-2 came with a provision to bolt on the sway bar up front. But, there were no tabs or provision to mount them at the rear sub frame. On my 67 a welder welded the mounting ears on for me as I had a set which I sourced many years ago. I bolted on a set of 22mm, 19mm oversize sway bars. On the 68 1600-2 I just threw on a 19mm oversize bar up front, and it helped quite a bit. 2. My early 69 1600 with the long neck diff came equipped with provisions to mount a sway bars up front and at the rear. The mounting tabs were there at the rear. But, there were no sway bars on the car. So, I just bolted a set of 22mm, 19mm aftermarket bars, no big deal. But, after a couple of years my 22mm oversize bar up front tore off the factory mounting ears. A very competent fabricator welded mounting plates up front without affecting my new bushings on the control arms. Some oversize 22mm bars will tear off the stock mounting ears while others won't. I've never had problems with the ST 22mm bar, but I've had problems with a different brand. 3. My 68 2002 also had provisions to mount sway bars up front and at rear. The car was given to me by a passer by during the early 90s. It had a full suspension package with 22mm , 19mm ST sway bars and springs along with the rare Bilstein Sports, inverted at the rear. This car had no rust, but it had a history of accidents. Both, the rear clip and front clip were replaced. And, whoever did the work was an amateur as the rear clip was welded on slightly crooked. The motor had tii pistons with a factory replacement head. Back then 2002s cost nearly nothing (In this case nothing). So, I chopped up that car in my driveway with an electric saw, And, unfortunately I gave away that factory replacement front nose clip along with an excellent fuel tank and many other parts, including the rare early seats, hood, deck lid and doors (If I can only get that sheet metal back. It costs an arm and a leg these days). I still have nightmares of chopping up that beautiful Manilla 2002. But, I did drive that car for a year with no problems. I threw that rear sub frame, complete with trailing arms and larger brakes on to my 69 1600. And, I immediately noticed improvement to breaking. I also installed the bigger 2002 drums on to my 67. And, at times I've ran that rare 2002 long neck diff in 3.64 ratio on my 1600s over the years. It actually works great in the 1600 and really improves highway cruising, no 5 speed overdrive needed. The only time you will notice a lack of torque is when you are fully loaded with 4 occupants. This is also the diff used on the 2 seater BMW 1600GT. For all you guys looking to install a 5 speed in your 1600, forget it. Just throw on a 3.64 diff from a 2002. It's a lot cheaper, easier and headache free. 4. Did the 1600ti come with sway bars at the rear ? I would assume it did. It was probably the first 02 to have sway bars at the rear in 1967, a year before the 2002 was introduced. 5. As I mentioned earlier, you can throw on a sway bar up front and forget about the rear as I did on my 68 1600-2. Just don't get too aggressive with the thickness of the bar up front, otherwise your car will probably be unbalanced. The factory stock bar will work fine. But, I wouldn't go thicker than 19mm, if you go the after market route. So there you have it, a lot more info than what you asked for.

Yes, true ! . But, there is also "EMW" which stands for Eisenacher Motorenwerk, the East German branch which was based in Eisenach. During the late 50s the company was renamed to "AWE" which stands for Automobilwerk Eisenach. AWE R3 - The Now-Forgotten Porsche 550 Competitor #blogpost WWW.CARTHROTTLE.COM A post by Jakob

I will reiterate and add to what has already been mentioned: Dashboard panels. There are mainly three different styles; the 3 piece, two piece and one piece dashes. In addition there are several variations of the Euro or very early 3 piece non-padded dash with the plastic trim pieces. I don't know if the plastic trim pieces are NLA, but it seems they are difficult to locate. Dash pads have become very expensive. Fifteen years ago the BMW factory was reproducing them for about $1,400 for a complete set. But, some vendors were selling NOS sets for well over $2,000 because they were produced "in the period". Now , a complete NOS set may cost nearly $3,000. Even a complete cracked set costs up to $500. If you can produce them and sell a complete set in the $1,000-$1,200 range at a decent profit, I think that most 02 owners would purchase a set from you. I have all the pieces to a very early set pictured, below. But, the pads are cracked. I can lend it to you, if you are serious to undertake the project. Perhaps, you can start with the plastic trim.

Tom, Thanks for clarifying that. To sum up what you said: 1. The factory started equipping the cars with US bumper overriders at some point during mid-67. And, it did so uniformly where they were used at both rear and front bumper. 2. At probably the same time the factory also equipped these cars with the newer style license plate lights mounted on the rear panel. -A

I owned a 1966 1600-2 Vin # 1507952 before it rusted away. And. I currently own a 1967 1600-2 Vin # 1520561. In looking at the rear view of your car it appears you have the later bumper from a 68 or later along with the later license plate lights. I've never seen a factory equipped car with the small bumperettes or bumper guards or whatever you call them paired with the large bumper guards at the rear. So, there seems to be some parts juggling on your car, or it's some type of transitional fluke between a 67-68. I don't know, but you have a very nice and clean car. - A

To illustrate that an expensive high performance build is not fun to drive on the street ?

$35K for drive-train rebuild ? I'm not surprised these days when a decent paint job costs $20K +. An engine rebuild is straightforward. The mechanic relies on the machine shop for machining. And, these days most mechanics opt for the machine shop to also perform the head assembly. Machine shop services are not that expensive, if you do all your own assembly, including the head. It's really not that big of a deal. This is getting insane. I remember paying $180 for a single stage Earl Scheib paint job in 1990. It actually lasted 10 years before fading. I did all my own prep work and disassembly / assembly. So it looked as presentable as the average paint these days, if not better. The color was a deep Red, close to the original Granada Red. I still remember the name "Matador Red" by Earl Scheib. A gallon of good body filler sets you back about $150 in this post-pandemic world of hyperinflation. Toying with classic cars is a big luxury these days.

Carl, I'll stop in and have a beer with you. - A Carl, I'll stop in with my 02 and have a beer with you. -A

1967 2000 #1326213 / 1972 2002 Verona - insurance loss / 1962 700 Luxus SOLD / 1975 530i Malaga SOLD http://nk2000project.blogspot.com/ "Rust Never Sleeps" Wow ! That's a thorough seal and old school steel jacket bushing replacement/ Those bushings are not that easy to locate. BMW's replacement Bushings don't have a steel sleeve, and they are too small in diameter. They don't work. That's what has happened to their quality control. They just outsource and don't even bother checking the parts. These bushings are also used on the early 1600-2s and possibly the 68 2002. As far as leaky diffs, as long as you check the oil level, they'll keep going, and the extra grime is rust proofing.

This hobby attracts a lot of weird people. Perhaps I'm one of them.