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beast02er

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Posts posted by beast02er

  1. 4 months in working on the car in the garage and the engine is in and mounted! That is a big step towards getting it running, though it wasn't as hard or time consuming as I thought.

    I still have to mount the transmission, which will probably be harder.

    1-25-12%2B005.jpg

    1-25-12%2B001.jpg

    1-25-12%2B010.jpg

    1-25-12%2B012.jpg

    BTW, if you notice, I have chassis mounted the engine which so far I am happy with, easy to get the mount in and mounted. After trying to get my 2002 engine on its mounts a few years ago...this chassis mounting seems way easier. It is something the Euro ford guys do a lot of which is where I got the idea.

    http://mk1cortinasearch.blogspot.com/

    -Bryan

    red73

  2. Cool, well if you send payment to bry2002bmw at lycos.com for paypal, add $25 for shipping and handling fees, we'll be good.

    Just to verify/double check, you understand what you see in the pictures is the completed product, and assembly and fab work is still required on your part (don't want you to think it is the completed set up as pictured, ready to mount)

    - Bryan

    red73

  3. This is a one off build, as in I made parts to make what you see in the pictures above, and made enough extra to make 2 more sets (though only 1 has the flange to couplers welded up)

    I would help with the rest of the build......except I have a baby on the way (3 months to go) and have a Project car I am trying to squeeze in as much work as I can before it comes (and need funding for hence the sale). So....my time is very valuable right now as I won't have much in 3 months! So, valuable time = worth too much to me to charge someone for it (long way of saying probably not)

    Rating for injectors is 26lb (I think) for the outboard injectors, and the stock Ford injectors installed in the head (going to run duel injectors and transition at higher RPM's)

    -Bryan

  4. What's for sale here is a "kit" to make DCOE mounting style ITB's......the hard parts are done, all that is left is some minor fabrication and assembly on your part.

    What you get:

    -GSXR 750 Srad ITB's (have better angled fuel injectors than later models, points at valve better)

    -Fabricated DCOE style flanges with slip fitting, the ITB's press in with some liquid gasket, no welding or ugly hoses and clamps needed.

    $300 for this

    1-19-10%2B010.jpg

    What you have to do: Fabricate the linkage tabs to extend the linkage (I can show you how I did mine, pretty simply, just need a dremel). Grind down / sand flush the welds on the flanges (slip fitting to flange weld on backside / manifold mounting side). You will need a fuel rail (I can make one for you for extra if you are using Bosch injectors).

    Add $300 for a carbon fiber airbox if you want one, won't fit with a Brake booster though, you will have to drill the intake openings in the backing plate (note, picture is of one in work, no clear coat applied, I apparently don't have a latest pic of the airbox)

    9-22-11%2B004.jpg

  5. Some progress pictures from my blog.

    Finished up my "strut top repair"......that was an undertaking.......

    12-28-11%2B016.jpg

    Test fit the engine with the modded sump......to double check clearances and all. This avoids speding $1500 or so on a dry sump system

    1-3-12%2B070.jpg

    Go to the Blog at the bottom of my sig here, click on some adds so I can rack up some $ to maybe actually buy some stuff with =) Gotta do what you can when you are on a BUDGET!!!

    -Bryan

  6. Wire wheeling the inner fender area...wearing safety glasses (pretty big full side protection)....normally I would wear a full face respirator for better safety etc...but I was just doing a quick job and the glasses were right there. Little tiny tiny chip of metal came up under the glasses into my eye.

    Thought it would come out, but irritated the hell out of my eye every time I blinked or anything....in the morning still there. So I went in to work where we have medical. Took a look at it, the piece was imbeded in my eye, so he numbed the eye and stuck a spinning tool into the eye to get it out....got it, but then I couldn't hold my eye lid open when he tried to get the rust ring off...

    had to go to an eye dr. where they were able to pretty much scrape the rust ring off the surface of my eye.... Slight blurriness to my one eye, but still 20/20 vision...

    Lesson learned, you only get 2 eyes, so wear the best protection you can over them!

    Sometimes safe isn't safe enough!

    -Bryan

    red73

  7. My wife describes the angriest she has ever seen me (in our young early years, 10 years ago) as when I came home from having someone back in to the back of my car..what they obviously thought was lightly, but not realizing they slightly buckled the bumper mount and metal where the bumper mounts (round light car). She says she has never seen so many expletives fly from my mouth!

    And, one time I was sitting in my car waiting for my wife (luckily not the 02) with my window down, some older lady gets out of her car next to me and bumps my door, a good solid bump though. She just says ooops and then walks off....didn't come up to me or anything. Pissed me off!!! Lesson learned, park in the waaaaaaaaaay back in any area highly frequented by older folks as it is harder for them to get in and out of cars = doors swinging WIDE open.....and in to yours.

    Sucks about your dent though, makes you wonder about people and their morals!

    -Bryan

    red73

  8. 2002man, freaking sweet car, love the look, How the hell do you fit 13x8's though.....without turbo flares etc???

    I've got 15" Panasports on my car.....and am slowly turning to wanting 13"'s, though the tire issue doesn't convince me (finding them)

    I have 13X7's for my Mk1 Cortina, we'll see how those work out for me.

    Great car.

    -Bryan

    red73

  9. My advice, blow everything out, start entering everying all over again as you go through the manual, make sure you understand what you are doing and why.

    Once all set-up, get the car idling, data log, get the idle dialed in based on you data logs.

    Move on to slow openings of the throttle (while parked) just up a few hundred to 1000 rpm.....data log

    Keep doing this datalogging and adjusting until you feel the bins are pretty good and you are getting the AFR's you want.

    Do it slowly....get it dialed in down low before you start to try and pull away and drive and tune....

    Just what I did when I started out, worked pretty well

    -Bryan

    red73

  10. Yes, I should have followed, though I was with my wife heading to a concert that was a present to both of us from me.

    Last time I had this opportunity I really SHOULD have turned around as I didn't have anything to go to, passed a SUPER clean white roundie driven by an old couple.....I think these types of cars are more awesome than a barn find as barn finds have usually been sitting neglected while some original owner.......most likely is OCD with care and love for the car!

    But, my wife always likes to remind me as well "and what car would you sell?" as I am at my 3 car limit =) .......which is probably a good thing otherwise i'd never finish my projects because i'd be like ooooh, how about I buy this one.

    -Bryan

  11. Last night I was on my way to a concert in Seattle and we were waiting to pull in to the parking garage.....as I was sitting there I see a 320i turning to come down the street (most driven this time of year are POS, so I wasn't too excited). Once it turned I saw the 'S' airdam and got somewhat excited........as it moved closer I noticed it had an old granny driving it.....and it was in F'ing PERFECT SHAPE!!!! The paint didn't have a dent on it, and shined like it just rolled out of the factory...

    I wish I had turned around to stalk her and offer to buy it....., when will I see THAT car again? Probably never. Not that she'd sell, probably her love, and only wheels!

    -Bryan

    red73

  12. To me, one positive about a topic being brought up "again" on the board that has lots of info......is each time it is brought up, someone else might have an opportunity to chime in and offer some other thoughts / opinions / advice etc.

    These may be old cars.....but it doesn't mean how we work on them can't evolve or improve over time. Just my .02

    But, that being said....there are some things where seach is good....but, even that can be hard to find what you are looking for as some peoples thread titles just suck and don't help you find out whats in the thread...

    -Bryan

    red73

  13. Just thought i'd post, i've had pretty good success with the HF (harbor freight) oscillating multi tool (you can get on sale for $19 + about $7 for the scraper attachment). I have been scraping the underseal in my front wheel wells and have had pretty good success. Just thought i'd post.....in case people out there were hand scraping it off......which would be a pain.

    Initial:

    11-28-11%2B040.jpg

    about 30 minutes later:

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vyiLBMlYezk/TtRxYS3gBCI/AAAAAAAAAiE/v4k3a79_iQ8/s1600/11-28-11%2B043.jpg

    Still a BIG job to do the whoooooole car, I might just do all the wheel wells for now as they had tar built up from years of driving on tar/gravel roads

    Bryan

    red73

  14. A ghetto solution to this would be....there are some PVC elbows at your local hardware store that have 45 degree and 90 degree angles....and in 2" diameter (close fit to the end of the DCOE's)

    With some work, you could make these work I think. $1 each is a lot cheaper than $75 or so that it could probably cost for "real"

    -Bryan

    red73

  15. Megasquirt 3 + MS3X board (allows the sequential ignition with the use of a cam sensor which the Duratec engine has) + a 4-channel driver board to drive the Ford COP's (need the driver board for this type of COP).

    Posting in case anyone working on MS3 needs info on this. I haven't tested it yet, but the driver board is installed in the case with the ignition inputs to the 4-channel board running from the DB37 pin location on the MS3X board (inside the case) to the input on the 4-channel board.

    Fits in the case fine, so it should all work!

    11-4-11.jpg

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