HELP W/A 1796 AUTOMATIC & PASSING EMISSIONS (with a Web

[oxnerd]

Thanks, I'll keep this as a list to work on just after the alternator change.

[oxnerd]

So I installed the new alternator and adjusted the timing/dist., and fuel mixture. Changed the oil and spark plugs. Took it to emissions and now failed 9 times the legal limit! An improvement from 12 times the limit! It is misfiring constantly. So I am wondering about vacuum issues.

So my next two questions are:

1. What should the vacuum lines from the carb. be hooked to or which should be plugged? I have one line that is connected from one side of the manifold to the other side. Two are plugged and the third goes to the dist.

2. What about the muffler? I had a 94 chevy truck that had never failed emissions and then failed. I found that the internals of the muffler had basically burned up and when I replaced the muffler it passed with flying colors. What should a muffler rplacement cost?

I know that it is missing some of the emission items but it has passed the visual test twice so I am just trying to get it to run well enough to pass the tests.

Thanks

[oxnerd]

So I installed the new alternator and adjusted the timing/dist., and fuel mixture. Changed the oil and spark plugs. Took it to emissions and now failed 9 times the legal limit! An improvement from 12 times the limit! It is misfiring constantly. So I am wondering about vacuum issues.

So my next two questions are:

1. What should the vacuum lines from the carb. be hooked to or which should be plugged? I have one line that is connected from one side of the manifold to the other side. Two are plugged and the third goes to the dist.

2. What about the muffler? I had a 94 chevy truck that had never failed emissions and then failed. I found that the internals of the muffler had basically burned up and when I replaced the muffler it passed with flying colors. What should a muffler rplacement cost?

I know that it is missing some of the emission items but it has passed the visual test twice so I am just trying to get it to run well enough to pass the tests.

Thanks

[ingraham]

... It will be faster than the 'quick fix' stuff. Find out what is wrong, and fix that. Some suggestions:

1. Post the limits for your area and your test results. Are HC, CO, and NOx being tested? Include the numbers and the units, e.g. grams per mile, parts per million, percent, etc. If we know which test is failing, we can offer some specific advice.

2. Find out what emissions equipment is required and compare that to what you've got.

3. If it's misfiring, HC will be high. Find out why it's misfiring.

4. Get your vacuum connections sorted out.

5. My offer repeated: "If you email me your postal address, I'll mail you a copy of the Weber 32/36 installation instructions for California, as those might be some help." You can't get it hooked up correctly if you don't know what the connections should be.

6. Comments on these statements: "i'd focus on getting the pollution down without adding any extra stuff you don't or may not need...." Fine. "besides..it's unlikely that any of the contraptions mention'd here will significantly help you anyway" False. Every piece was put on there for a reason. For example, a working air pump makes a huge reduction in unburned HC.

7. When you're tired of the trial-and-error, take it to a local independent BMW shop that regularly works on 02s. Ask for a diagnosis. They'll be familiar with the smog test requirements, how the emissions equipment affects the test results, and how to sort it out with minimal fuss.

I've owned a dozen 02s over the years, and my shop and I got all of them, even several '76s, to pass the California smog check. Usually the solution is a small dose of repairs and a large dose of undoing PO "improvements".

[ingraham]

... It will be faster than the 'quick fix' stuff. Find out what is wrong, and fix that. Some suggestions:

1. Post the limits for your area and your test results. Are HC, CO, and NOx being tested? Include the numbers and the units, e.g. grams per mile, parts per million, percent, etc. If we know which test is failing, we can offer some specific advice.

2. Find out what emissions equipment is required and compare that to what you've got.

3. If it's misfiring, HC will be high. Find out why it's misfiring.

4. Get your vacuum connections sorted out.

5. My offer repeated: "If you email me your postal address, I'll mail you a copy of the Weber 32/36 installation instructions for California, as those might be some help." You can't get it hooked up correctly if you don't know what the connections should be.

6. Comments on these statements: "i'd focus on getting the pollution down without adding any extra stuff you don't or may not need...." Fine. "besides..it's unlikely that any of the contraptions mention'd here will significantly help you anyway" False. Every piece was put on there for a reason. For example, a working air pump makes a huge reduction in unburned HC.

7. When you're tired of the trial-and-error, take it to a local independent BMW shop that regularly works on 02s. Ask for a diagnosis. They'll be familiar with the smog test requirements, how the emissions equipment affects the test results, and how to sort it out with minimal fuss.

I've owned a dozen 02s over the years, and my shop and I got all of them, even several '76s, to pass the California smog check. Usually the solution is a small dose of repairs and a large dose of undoing PO "improvements".

[Marty]

You need to fix that miss before giving it another try, there's no way you'll pass while misfiring, how are your ignition wires and dizzy cap? any idea when the last complete tune up was. also clean or change you air filter.

[Marty]

You need to fix that miss before giving it another try, there's no way you'll pass while misfiring, how are your ignition wires and dizzy cap? any idea when the last complete tune up was. also clean or change you air filter.

[PeterVarga]

Got to eliminate misfiring before it is worth retesting. Check each plug wire for opens.....tighten each plug connector with a twist making sure it has not worked free. Next is vacuum leaks. Every hose should be connected to something and not leaking. The Weber has three stages, idle, progression and main. If you are having a fuel based miss, your idle circuit is probably blocked and you are running on prog or main circuits.

Back off your throttle stop and get that engine idling on only idle with butterfly fully closed (no progresive). If it doesn't idle properly at 600 RPM remove idle jet (behind idle cutout solenoid), remove idle adjust screw at base of carb, and remove emulsion tube. Blast with carb cleaner making sure orfices are clear. Verify that your emulsion tube is clean, free from debris and the correct one for your car. I think they run F50 for the 2002.

Inspect your idle jet for blockage and correct size. Look at hole in tip and sides etc, You should see light through them otherwise they are blocked. Idle adjustment screw should have a pointed tip without burrs on it. If you have an incorrect adjustment screw you cant reduce the flow of the idle jet and can't lean out the mixture....this would contribute significantly toward the misfiring and 12x/9x smog readings.

[PeterVarga]

Got to eliminate misfiring before it is worth retesting. Check each plug wire for opens.....tighten each plug connector with a twist making sure it has not worked free. Next is vacuum leaks. Every hose should be connected to something and not leaking. The Weber has three stages, idle, progression and main. If you are having a fuel based miss, your idle circuit is probably blocked and you are running on prog or main circuits.

Back off your throttle stop and get that engine idling on only idle with butterfly fully closed (no progresive). If it doesn't idle properly at 600 RPM remove idle jet (behind idle cutout solenoid), remove idle adjust screw at base of carb, and remove emulsion tube. Blast with carb cleaner making sure orfices are clear. Verify that your emulsion tube is clean, free from debris and the correct one for your car. I think they run F50 for the 2002.

Inspect your idle jet for blockage and correct size. Look at hole in tip and sides etc, You should see light through them otherwise they are blocked. Idle adjustment screw should have a pointed tip without burrs on it. If you have an incorrect adjustment screw you cant reduce the flow of the idle jet and can't lean out the mixture....this would contribute significantly toward the misfiring and 12x/9x smog readings.

[ingraham]

Your first two photos were good. If you post photos showing every vacuum line and connection, plus the fuel lines under the hood, people here will eyeball those and say 'your standby auxiliary main feed booster bypass line is backwards ...'. Or something like that.

[ingraham]

Your first two photos were good. If you post photos showing every vacuum line and connection, plus the fuel lines under the hood, people here will eyeball those and say 'your standby auxiliary main feed booster bypass line is backwards ...'. Or something like that.

[ingraham]

(nt)

[ingraham]

(nt)