First Day as Daily Driver, Misc. Questions

[wake74]

Since I finally managed to get my 75 2002 back on the road, I thought I would put it into daily driver service to shake out any problems. Of course, I found a few:

1. I have a brand new Weber 32/36 carb with a manual choke. The car idles and runs fine after warm-up. However, it doesn't idle very well when cold, and shakes a fair amount. The choke doesn't seem to make a difference and may make it worse. I've examined the choke mechanism at length, and can't find any adjustments. I was expecting a way to adjust the idle speed when the choke is on. Am I missing something?

2. Door locks. The ignition key that came with the car, doesn't work on any of the door locks, or the trunk. It's going to make it tough to be a daily driver, and not be able to lock at least the trunk (gotta have a place for the laptop, if I make a stop on the way home). Any suggestions?

3. Lack of blinker light in dashboard. My blinkers all work, except for the blinker warning light in the dashboard. I've read the faq, but my blinker relay doesn't look at all like the relay described. I've changed bulbs so that isn't the problem. Suggestions?

4. What is a safe RPM for high-way cruising? I put in a 4 speed when I did the auto to manual swap. It has a rebuilt head, but unknown lower end. I'm pulling about 3,500 RPMS at 65 mph. I must have the 3.64 gear ratio, by using the FAQ calculator. So at least that is good news. I know, put in a 5 speed.......

On a positive note, I didn't have any over-heating problems, even though it was 90+ degrees, and I was in stop-go traffic.

Thanks,

Glenn

[phocus]

Hi wake74, As I see it you don't have any problems at all, just drive it.

[ponyboy]

Well, on my solex maual choke, I can adjust the manual choke rev by pulling the choke inside the car. So... in order to adjust the choke for you, like mine, I would suggest considering adjusting where the choke cable attaches to the choke linkage on the carb. You say the choke doesnt effect idle, ao maybe you can pull the cable some more where it joins the carb choke linkage so there is less play, thus causing the choke to engage more aggressively when pulling(turning on) the choke inside the car...

as far is the light for the blinkers, dunno.. maybe someone else here does on that one....

You need to replace the trunk lock or get a key made for it as the key for it is different than the ignition key...

They have them at 2002ad.com, I think bavauto.com, but I recommend contacting the member on here named BLUNT. BLUNT will get you the best deal on it most likely...

for the doors, the ignition key is supposed to be the same. At 2002 ad, Jose there sold me a door handle and adjusted it so that my ignition key opened it. You should look into getting somebody to do that on your door handles like a locksmith or a 2002 specialist like Jose at 2002ad.

Good Luck, Lance

[JohnW]

There's a relay under the dash for the blinker light, IIRC. I've had three 02s and that interior blinker light worked in none of them. I think that part is still available, relaitvely inexpensively. I probably should replace mine ...

[Benz02]

The shaking could be a vacuum leak or a tight valve, maybe timing. My guess is that it's something simple...it usually is with these things (as we know and love).

The door lock situation is kind of messed up. I say either replace your doors handles and trunk lock, or have keys made for the existing ones--whichever's cheaper.

As for the blinker light, it sounds like there's a break in the current to the dash light. I'd take a test bulb and check the wires from the turn signal stalk...whichever one is going to the dashlight is probably the culprit. Be careful when removing and replugging the 12 pin connector (if you have to).

Any RPM are good at highway speeds (assuming everything's running properly). My philosophy is that the Germans build their cars to run hard, so have no fear! I've cruised at 80 for twelve hours straight in 90 degree heat and never saw my temp needle go more than halfway. You'll probably get the best mileage right at 3500 or so, even 4000. I average about 25 mpg that way with the 4 speed and 3:64.

Benzo

'71 Verona

[wake74]

Well, on my solex maual choke, I can adjust the manual choke rev by pulling the choke inside the car. So... in order to adjust the choke for you, like mine, I would suggest considering adjusting where the choke cable attaches to the choke linkage on the carb. You say the choke doesnt effect idle, ao maybe you can pull the cable some more where it joins the carb choke linkage so there is less play, thus causing the choke to engage more aggressively when pulling(turning on) the choke inside the car... "

My Weber 32/36 is different than this. Adjusting the cable won't make it choke any more. There is a mechanical stop built into the carb, that stops the idle speed cam from going any further. It stops just after the choke butterflies close 100%.

[chrome68]

it may acualy be cheaper to just have the doors re-keyed, than to make a key. dunno why, but it was for me. I also took it out and brought the lock to them with the ignition key. wichever way you do it. it should be pretty cheap to have working locks. does the key fit and not turn? it may simply be frozen. mine was on one, the other had a worn out tumbler. the trunk takes a different key shape. good to see more daily drivers. got points? if so seriously consider a crane or pertronix ignition, and you wont have to deal with any timming or points issues once it's all been set. best upgrade for the money you could do. rpms? depends on how your motor is tuned. my 1600 holds a steady 6.5 rpm without problems, it's me that holds back. my girlfriends 02 auto does fine at 5, saving room on the pedal for passing. I've found that on a daily driver, it's good to get the door/ dome switches working, and mabe install a dome in the trunk, if you do much night driving. blinker sounds like a bad or loose wire to me too, However it could be the wrong bulbs in the blinkers themselves. if it's the wrong volt or watt the indicator only blinks once, sometimes not at all, but the signals outside still do lots of the time. if not that try grounding it seperately. if no workie, dig around with a test light I suppose. shaking... how bad? most 02's shake, many causes can be found on here and checked/ fixed at your leisure.

[cowlum]

I disabled my door locks (removed that small rod connecting the lock to the latch) and installed central locking controlled by an alarm. Its rather cheap and much more secure. I put the battery in the boot so that if the battery should fail I can unlock the boot with an old fashioned key and connect up the jumper cables providing the locks with power. Three years later and i have not yet had todo that. + clicking a button on your key ring is soo much easier when you are carrying stuff, its raining or when you are blind drunk (kidding:)..

[Lorfjord]

my trunk lock doesnt work properly either, so its never locked. I have a bunch of junk in there, new balance 991s is the most expensive item. Its all still there. I dont think people assume thats its open.

for everything important....golf clubs and shoes, they live behind the back seat.

I just keep the old New balance 991s in the trunk in case she stalls and I need to walk.

[BarryA]

Choke: should do two things when you pull the cable - 1) close the choke butterfly, and 2) increase the idle speed, via a "cam" of sorts in the linkage that causes the main linkage to open part way. A cold engine needs both more fuel and a faster idle until it warms up, so I'd check the linkage and try to see if something's out of adjustment.

Keys: As mentioned in another post, the door and ignition locks share a key - since you have a working ignition lock/switch, you should be able to have the door lock cylinders rekeyed to match at a reasonable cost. If you don't want to tangle with it yourself, it'll be cheaper if you take the handles off and deliver them to a locksmith along with an ignition key.

Trunk lock is a separate key, so no reason not to replace the lock/latch with a new or used one that's already got a key.

[wake74]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. To address a couple of specific comments:

1. Choke. My choke has no way to adjust it. It is functioning as it should, it closes the butterflies, and adjusts the throttle slightly (1/8" or so away from the idle screw), increasing the idle. However, when I pull the choke when I first start the car, the car dies immediately. Keep in mind, that it has always been 75+ degrees, even in the morning here in SC. Since it runs rough until warm, with-out the choke, I'd like to figure out what is wrong.

2. Locks. New trunk locks are available but they appear to be $100+. My ignition key fits both door locks, but won't turn. Since the locks on the inside of the doors, don't appear functional either, I'll take the door panels off over the long weekend, and see what is wrong. Maybe the locks are just frozen.

Thanks again!

Glenn

Two days in a row, no breakdowns, but a minor oil leak has me marking my spot at the office

[chrome68]

If your key fits & doesnt turn, I'm willing to bet some good thin lubricant (not WD-40) but something like tri-flow, will unseize the mechanisms& tumblers/springs. Just give it a good dose and firmly but not forcingly work the key around in it. one of mine took 3 days of off and on keying before the oil penetrated (rust?) deep enough to unfreeze it. undo your door pannels very carefully, as not to break any plastic clips and sheck all your internal linkage as well. use thicker grease on those. worst case scenario, you take out the door button and have it keyed, or you can pay them an extra 50$ to take it out for you. if you do take them both out, be sure to label them, as they look quite similar. I got mine dirt cheap at an auction this way.... they couldnt start it when it was time to drive it to the podium, and it waqs in the "dead row" at the next auction. being a regular, I had heard it run great on a preview day. only other bidder was a auction worker (yes they can bid) and he drove my price up to a whopping 200$ might be able to recover that $ just with the bbs wheels & stuff I found in the trunk. long story short, only thing wrong w/ it was a few sticky locks, that havent given me any trouble in 4 years since I lubed them all and unfroze 2. if it sat outdoors for any length of time, the keys and locks may be just fine and merely quite stuck from never moving out in the elements.

as for the choke, perhaps you have a rich mixture, causing it to flood when the choke is pulled. mine has a solex, but I have a similar issue. In warm weather, I only need to pull it out mabe 1/3 max, or it floods. mine's always prefered to run rich for one reason or another.