engine and drivetrain Timing mark is erratic & noise is coming from timing cha

[cdsmith_2002]

I have a car that sat for years and I've been trying to sort it out. I don't have any history on it except that it was had not ben registered since 2001.

The car idles fairly poorly even above 1000 rpm. The exhaust intermittantly has a faint "pop" noise, mabye a backfire? While driving the car has a slight "bucking" sensation. The timing chain sounds noisey and the timing mark in the transmission hole dances back and forth more than I think it should (nothing to compair it to except non-BMW stuff). Before I buy a new chain/pulleys/guides, I'm hoping to get some feedback from the group. I think that the timing is moving enough to cause the poor idle/bucking symptoms. If it wasn't for the noise in the front of the motor I'd be suspiscous of the distributor. The car runs well enough that I'll drive it 25 miles to work but I know it can run much better.

Here is what I've done so far:

*electric fuel pump installed (mechanical was dead)

*compression is about 130psi but 1 cylinder requires a spoon of oil to achieve this result. I did not do a leak down, yet....

*disassembled & cleaned the Weber 32/38. Set float at 35mm.

*used "best-lean" set-up guide for mixture.

*new plugs, wires, cap, rotor button, capasitor, points

*decarboned engine with some Motorcraft stuff

*new timing tensioner piston

Thanks Guys.........

[Marty]

Pull your dist cap and rotor if you look down the shaft you should see a felt pad pull this out and put about 2 drops of engine oil down inside of the shaft, turn the shaft back and forth to work the oil in then reinstall the pad and put a drop or 2 of oil on it, that should smooth out your timing. then pull out you damper piston and soak it in solvent overnight then drain it out and shake it untill the little ball inside rattles freely reinstall and bleed it and your chain noise will probably go away.

[cdsmith_2002]

I did not know about oiling the distributor. Thanks, I'll try it.

I forgot to mention that my tensioner piston is new. I took the old one out and it measured 57MM insted of the specified 61MM. I think the noise was reduced by it is still noisey.

[Marty]

Did you bleed the piston when you installed it?

[cdsmith_2002]

Nope. What do I need to do?

[Marty]

If you look down the right side of the timing cover you'll see a little cup right where the piston comes in, fill this with oil if its not already filled and then with the tentioner cap loosened untill just a few threads hold it take a large screw driver and rock the tentioner rail back and forth untill the piston starts give some resistance some oil will probably leek out of the cap this is OK tighten the cap down and you should be good to go

[cdsmith_2002]

Got it. I did end up finding this procedure in the Intereurope Workshop manual but the Haynes does not seem to mention this requirement. Sadly the Clymer has pictures and everything. 3 manuals and I still screwed it up.......