engine and drivetrain Body alignment-Update

[jerry]

hi folks,

i've made some progress today on my T-boned driver's side door. most of the time was spent preparing for the jacking point, trying to ensure that the loading was shared between the transmission tunnel and the passenger's side kick panel. it's not pretty but so far it's held up as shown in photo1. i've got a tremendous load on my screw jack (the hydraulic bottle jack didn't work horizontally, btw). i'll leave it under load overnight.

a trial fit of the door revealed that it lines up at the bottom rear and sticks out about 3/8 - 1/2 inch at top rear as shown in photo. i'm closer to straight but not there yet and am seriously considering stopping now. the front fender support is still off by half a bolt as shown in one of the photos.

it appears that i MAY be able to reshape the door to fit better by cutting the top support (photo attached) and twisting the door slightly to improve fit. before i do this i will move the jack and push at a lower location for a look-see.

as always, i'm all ears (eyes) as to suggestions.

thanks in advance.

now i'm off to read my Sears Mig Welder instructions.... (thank you Craigslist).

[dubois]

see nothing wrong with your set up, actually quite ingenious. Try to pull the pillar so the door fits w/o having to twist it, or you could be fighting that door in the future. This is probably one of the toughest pulls because tight tolerance due to door fitment. plus the lever arm effect between the hinges to the latch. If you can get this one done, the rest of them are easier.

[dubois]

looks like you are able to pull the pillar with the door on, and thus able to check your work as you push. Make sure that the door latch striker on the quarter panel pillar is disconnected or loose, this will ensure that it (the striker) is not adding another variable to the problem by putting the door in a bind. Check the door position by slightly pushing it closed. Finally adjust the striker position (when you are done pulling the pillar) by finger tightening the striker, close the door on it (it will push the striker where it belongs) open the door and tighten it.

[Martin]

Looks like most of the load is being placed on the tranny tunnel and not the other pillar. I agree, try not to cut and re-weld the door if you can help it. You're almost there. Great job!!

[Guest Anonymous]

i'm happy to say that all the effort, has paid off. the slight outward bow at the top will be compensated by the door latch. it does not appear to deflect the door at all and will merely press slightly more against the rubber door seal. i don't want to push my luck anymore. the sound of metal straining is NERVEWRACKING. the difference is probably due to the SLIGHT deformation at the bottom hinge and i have no way of applying force at the appropriate location.

i'm stoked and look forward to the next phase of work which will include all new steering linkage, bushings, brake upgrade, struts, battery relocation, rubber all around, headliner, reupolstery, Becker Mono radio w/ single speaker, carpet, spare tire well replacement, and my attempt at bodywork.

btw, this will be car No.2 that i've done this to, but i hope to keep this one. the last one i kept for 13 years.

VIN 2576240 shall roll again for years to come...

[Ricola]

Jerry, I admire your passion, but your in over your head. Do yourself a favor and spend $ 400.00 with a shop and have the car pulled. You can push the side out the way you are going but you will soon start to move the other side. When you do it will be too late. When a shop sets a car up to pull the cowl often a forward pull is also required as the front will sway causing a banana effect. Be careful...