Cylinder Head NorCal

[Reza Taheri]

Hi all, I'm looking to rebuild the top end (hopefully that's all) in my 74 with 32/36 Weber carb.

 

I did a lot of reading on the process and am now planning my parts list. I know I have to pull my head before I know all that I need, but I know for sure I will need a machine shop. Any recommendations near Sacramento? Does anyone have a rebuilt head you decided not to use?

[Conserv]

Just be cognizant of the type of head on your engine. It’s generally important because the head must work with the pistons installed in the block. The three head types on 2-liter ‘02 engines are 121’s, E12’s, and E21’s.

 

If your current head is original to the engine, and the engine is original to the car (engine number = car’s VIN), it is a type E12 head. This is perhaps the most common head kicking around now, but you need a good one: not too corroded, not too warped, not too thin, not cracked. Lots of nearly-50-year-old heads will fail some or all of these tests!

 

The type and casting date of the head are cast into its left (intake) side, generally between the third and fourth intake manifold runners.

 

Here’s an article that might help you identify your car’s engine block and head:

 

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

[Reza Taheri]

Great information! I believe it is an e12 but I will double-check.

 

Given everything you just said, do you think I would just be better off repairing what I have? My engine isn't blown, I just have leaks and I'm seeing smoke now. Plus I swear I hear a timing chain rattle, so this is more preventative (hopefully) than catastrophic.

 

The car mostly sat for 30 years before I basically inherited it. I've had a good time for about 4 years now with little more than a valve adjustment. I've done suspension, fuel, exhaust, but little on the drivetrain. 

[Conserv]

On 3/30/2022 at 11:26 AM, Reza Taheri said:

 

Given everything you just said, do you think I would just be better off repairing what I have?

 

You go with the best head you can find! So… is yours not too corroded, not too warped, not cracked, and of adequate thickness? You really can’t answer this question until your head is off, cleaned, and, perhaps, stripped down. These heads are all 40-50 years old and most are showing their age.

 

When the head comes off, you’ll also have an opportunity to see the block, well, at least the tops of the pistons. The condition of the pistons will be one indicator of whether the bottom end is usable as is, or needy!
 

A leak-down test, and a compression check, before you remove the head, however, may help evaluate both the block (well, piston rings) and the head.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

[Reza Taheri]

I think I found a good shop in Auburn, CA, M45 Automotive. They mostly do Subarus, but Subarus blow heads so often that I feel they must know their stuff.

 

Pulling the head seems relatively straight forward, but I'm a little concerned about the timing chain. Does anyone have any wisdom to share?

 

Also, any recommendations on head gaskets? Ireland Engineering seems to have a few options. Is that something the shop will recommend after seeing the top end?

[jfahuna]

Read conserv post twice 

Have rebuild e 12 cylinder heads in stock.

Can bring up for Brisbane if paid in advance.

 

Best call 8182030639