Scruffy 1602 progress and tach (and general) wiring questions

[ratty1602]

Making slow and steady progress on the very scruffy 1602 project. I reinstalled the shifter plate but not really happy with the shifter at all, I'm considering other options like an upgrade to the later style and switching over the whole mechanical clutch setup to hydraulic master/slave. (Knowing modifications to pedal box will be required)

 

 

Pedal Box - removed and in the process of rebuilding. Will likely convert this to a newer style pedal box and hydraulic clutch.

 

 

Exhaust - got rid of the DIY exhaust that was just a resonator ending about mid-way down the length of the car. IE isn't too far from me so I picked up their SS exhaust. I did remove the OEM flange to clamp it to my (looks home made) downpipe. Eventually I'll have someone weld all this up but for now clamps it is.  (Don't mind the HF jack stands backed up by ramps (also backed up by jack).... Safety Third!)

 

Instrument cluster - I picked up an instrument cluster from a 69 '02, which is in my better shape than the original...   it did not seem salvageable and had been 'modified' with an aftermarket tach. The tach does not work, which is not surprising as the car had previously been on Pertronix and has been returned to points. I'm trying to figure out what's happening in the engine bay with the coil wiring....  Maybe someone has seen this setup? I'm not sure I see a black wire for the tach in the engine bay, but I don't know what has been hacked apart or removed. 

 

 

Questions: 

 

What is #1?

 

#2 and #3 come out of the harness, nothing is plugged into these connectors

 

#4 goes to a terminal on the white insulator looking thing on the picture below (there marked #3). It comes out of the main harness.

 

 

 

 

Any comments or insight are appreciated....  the Haynes wiring diagram is only getting me so far.... 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stevenc22]

The white rectangle is a ceramic resistor. The electrical circuit needs three ohms of resistance. Your black coil has less than 3 ohms, so the resistor is in place to make 3 ohms total. If you switch to a blue coil, a blue coil is already 3 ohms and no ceramic resistor will be necessary.

 

[HBChris]

#1 is the wiper relay, ceramic part is the ballast resistor as mentioned earlier, there should be a relay to bypass it during starting.  No Year stated but from your switches you have an early 1600 which should have silver dollar gauges, you now have later style cluster.  Tach wire should come from distributor, same plug as condenser I have think, be sure you have power and ground behind the tach gauge plus the black wire hooked up.

[ratty1602]

1 hour ago, HBChris said:

#1 is the wiper relay, ceramic part is the ballast resistor as mentioned earlier, there should be a relay to bypass it during starting.  No Year stated but from your switches you have an early 1600 which should have silver dollar gauges, you now have later style cluster.  Tach wire should come from distributor, same plug as condenser I have think, be sure you have power and ground behind the tach gauge plus the black wire hooked up.

 

The cluster I took out was actually identical to this one from what I can tell, but with an aftermarket tach. Not sure if that's to replace a clock or not, but the whole cluster wasn't worth saving. Then again no idea if that was the original cluster since I have little history on the car. This cluster I'm told is from a '69, my 1602 is a '70...

 

I don't see a separate wire behind the cluster (the black wire?) Just the round plug and the various switches and cig lighter. The tach on this new cluster is connected to the three prong plug on the back of the cluster. I'll take pics when I get a chance to pull it again.

[ratty1602]

1 hour ago, HBChris said:

#1 is the wiper relay, ceramic part is the ballast resistor as mentioned earlier, there should be a relay to bypass it during starting.  No Year stated but from your switches you have an early 1600 which should have silver dollar gauges, you now have later style cluster.  Tach wire should come from distributor, same plug as condenser I have think, be sure you have power and ground behind the tach gauge plus the black wire hooked up.

 

 

Actually looking at that cluster that came with the car it might be a '76 cluster? If that's the date stamp.

 

 

[tahoedon]

#1 is a thermal type switch which allows the wipers to make a couple of passes when you hit the windshield washers.  When I removed the clock on my 1600 and added a tach (stewart warner, the bmw ones were to expensive for me back in 1969) I just added the wires according to the instructions.  I assumed that my 1600 did not have the wiring already installed for a tach and I still don't think it does.

[tahoedon]

Also before modifying your pedal box for a hydraulic clutch set up,  you should check to see how easy it is to add a slave cylinder to the transmission since the 1600 transmission is not set up for the slave cylinder.  I converted to a hydraulic set up when I added a five speed.  I used the pedal box from a 2002 and in so doing I used the 2002 brake booster and eliminated the remote booster that the 1600 originally came with.  I would not have gone to the hydraulic set up if I did not add the five speed.  I liked the simplicity of the manual clutch and it worked fine as long as I kept the ball pushing against the throw out lever greased up.

[HBChris]

Your circuit board is definitely much later.  68/69/70 cars had the silver dollar centers in the gauges, yours is late 71-73, 74-76 had the cross hairs added to these same dials.  I added a tach to a car that had a clock and the black wire was there behind the cluster but not attached although it was a 74, probably had tape covering the spade terminal as well.