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Oops, I didn't see the circlip! How can I remove that best?

And after that, does the slave slide out forward (to the engine) of backwards? Because backwards doesn't seem to be possible to me, I can't compress it enough and all fluid is already bleeded.

BMW 1602 (1975) - 3978554 - Fjord Blue metallic with double Solex PHH40

BMW 3.0 CSi (1974) - 4340715 - Nightblue metallic

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Oops, I didn't see the circlip! How can I remove that best?

And after that, does the slave slide out forward (to the engine) of backwards? Because backwards doesn't seem to be possible to me, I can't compress it enough and all fluid is already bleeded.

 Snap ring pliers.  There are many different styles.

 

You should be able to slide the ring to best expose the eylets   -  but   -  in a pinch, you can pry the ring out with small chisel/screwdriver.  Where there is a will, there is a way.  You may destroy the ring or the ring land in the process, but usually that does not happen.

 

 

When you say "backwards," we could be talking about two different directions.  There may be a taper on either the slave or the bell housing it fits in.

 

When you remove it, you will wonder why did it seem so difficult.  It's not,  with the right tools and know how - or if you live down the street from MikeS.  ;)

 

T244100.jpg

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I couldn't find a MikeS in my street, so I bought 'the right tool' and it was a matter of minutes now, pretty easy indeed! Thanks for the help!

I'm now also removing the clutch master cilinder and rebuilding the brake master cilinder and then I should again be ready to drive  :D

BMW 1602 (1975) - 3978554 - Fjord Blue metallic with double Solex PHH40

BMW 3.0 CSi (1974) - 4340715 - Nightblue metallic

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