Jump to content

percy

Solex
  • Content Count

    215
  • Joined

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

54 Excellent

About percy

Profile Information

  • Gender Array

Recent Profile Visitors

1,246 profile views
  1. Feldspar (as found in bon ami cleaning powder) is unlikely to provide the same clarity as a new windshield. That said, it is a relatively inexpensive alternative that might provide "some" benefit. Cleaning POWDER not Cleaner. http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/carcare/all_use_bon_ami_on_windshield.html
  2. I Not all brand new master cylinders are perfect and this is likely true for second hand hydraulic parts. We encountered a similar problem with installation of two new master cylinders for a different make vehicle, albeit ATE units. The only available replacement unit (rebuilt) worked well out of the box and oiled wrapping paper. I do not often replace master cylinders. However, I would be inclined to bench bleed most if I have reason to suspect the unit has been sitting and possibly prone to drying out due to unwanted environmental exposure or poor handling. But I am probably in the minority. It can be slightly messy, but to the extent it may prevent a "dry start", it could not hurt. You did not describe your bleeding method. In you situation I would consider bleeding with a helper pumping the brake pedal rather than other methods to possibly eliminate a concern within the cylinder bore or a slightly deformed piston seal/s. However, since you have driven the vehicle, it is likely that you have achieved the same result, in which case I would R&R the master or reinstall the old unit. For obvious reasons, if your older unit worked well and maintained pressure, why not give it a go? Of course, if the bore is sized differently, pedal effort and travel will be different too. Naturally, if you have a downstream system leak (or weep), e.g., calipers, wheel cylinders and/or flex lines - your next action lies in that direction.
  3. For obvious reasons, smaller idle jet orifices are more prone to collecting smaller land masses, meteorites, flotsam, jetsam, occult rtv, dryer lint, penguin feathers and mineral deposits. .
  4. Removing a small measure of oil might be just as easily accomplished by removing the oil filter and draining it. This also deters the compulsion to examine what is left in the drain plug and . . . cleaning it. Likewise, if the plug has has an embedded magnet, removing the plug invariably leads to the task of examining and removing any extraneous ferrous particulates. In the end, removing the oil filter is perhaps slightly less messy, but adds a wee bit of control.
  5. It's been said that there are many ways to skin a cat and probably just as many ways to remove a fastener. Not only can you move the steering linkage for better access, per dlacey, but not difficult to attack the problem from above with suitable extensions and maybe even a flex joint or two. And then there are crows feet . . .
  6. We criss-crossed the US for many years in our '73 - without incident. Most of the extra provisions (tools and mechanical parts) proved to be unnecessary dead weight. (The tools came in handy when helping other motorists, or if I felt compelled to perform an impromptu oil change or check brake pads after traversing the Rockies.) I distinctly recall being surprised by how much the ride height changed when all of the tools and parts were unloaded during a move and this undoubtedly affected handling and fuel economy. Obviously, with the benefit of hindsight, I might not have carried so much extra weight. But there is nothing like being prepared, or is it over-prepared? Nowadays, we feel a little differently about driving 45+ year old cars on extended trips. Not to deter your plans, but our older cars often receive too much attention, some of it unwanted. (I recall a hotel desk clerk's messages about someone interested in "viewing" and "driving" our car - and whether we were interested in selling. None of those suggestions were particularly appealing, nor were the smudged handprints found all over the car, the next morning - especially the door handles and and trunk lock area, and the tweaked wiper blades.) Of course, this type of attention (respectful and not-so-respectful) could happen anywhere and at any time. But, if you are in a hurry to leave a hotel or restaurant, don't be surprised by a few unplanned distractions. Naturally, travelllng in a pack has many advantages, including watchful eyes and welcome camaraderie. Last gas station visit: "My Dad used to drive a Corvair - just like yours."
  7. Per your observation, not all idle solenoids are identical and interchangeable, nor are all Weber twin-choke downdraft carburetors identical. For example, idle solenoids found on some OEM Weber carburetors used on '70s Italian cars may not readily interchange with some aftermarket Webers. Then there are examples of manufacturing "issues" that could result in any mass produced product. I recall someone showing me an incompletely machined jet that had to be more fully drilled to make it functional. In other words, you could have the wrong part or even a defectively produced right part. This is probably old news, but consider re-reading this thread. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/165520-weber-3838-best-lean-idle-procedure/
  8. I would imagine that there are just as many ways to perform mount replacement as there are '02 shadetree mechanics. Although I haven't performed this task in a long while, I recall being forced to improvise in the field due to unanticipated inclement weather. (The strut mount bearings were so severely worn that it was causing the strut to bind.) I removed the tire and wheel and compressed the strut with the jack to expedite tightening the spring compression clamps. Then later removed the same jack in favor of supporting one side of the subframe with a jackstand. With the strut slightly compressed, and with the upper mount nuts removed, it was fairly simple to carefully place a foot on the rotor hat assembly and carefully manipulate the upper portion of the strut from under the fender so that replacement strut mount could be fit on top of the strut and everything (new mount included) reinstalled. Some shortcuts are not for the fainthearted and I am not sure I would recommend this method for everyone, but it worked in a pinch on the roadside and maybe a couple of times thereafter. If I remember correctly, my two biggest concerns were compressing the gas strut and avoiding any contact with nicely painted fenders. I used some kind of strapping to slightly compress the gas strut and a moving blanket to protect the paintwork. Obviously, the vehicle condition and its equipment could change the equation. I am fairly certain I witnessed someone use a similar method to replace or reinstall the strut washers (between the upper spring perch and the strut mount) with the vehicle elevated a foot or two but with the wheel attached. With enough muscle, it looked easy enough. For illustrative purposes:
  9. I'm confused as to why you pictured the ball joint assembly with arrows pointing toward the three nuts. I have never found it necessary to remove the joint to replace the upper strut mount, even with gas shocks.
  10. While I agree that maladjusted ignition points would not affect just one cylinder, worn or maladjusted points could certainly affect the engine operation so that the engine "feels" like it is running on less than all four cylinders. But in answer to your original question, why not simply remove the distributor cap and check the points gap yourself? Alternatively, there is always something called a dwell meter that serves a similar purpose. Ignition points may not be that popular now, but they were ubiquitous and reliable for decades. That includes the entire Type 114 production run. If I am not mistaken, recommended maintenance for ignition points was every 10,000 miles and your owners manual or similar describes how to adjust ignition points. (And yes - changing the points adjustment can alter ignition timing.) Ignition point life expectancy can be shortened if they are installed improperly, the rubbing block is left dry (without grease), the points are bent, dirty or improperly gapped, the adjustment screw is left loose or, as noted by Toby, the condenser is wrong for your application or damaged. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=116997
  11. There are many reasons for a stuck brake drum. And, once you remove the drum, the reason/s will become obvious. Since your drum is not even seated due to misalignment, removal should probably be easier than you think. Driving it off a little bit at a time via drift and hammer would be my first approach. If that approach does not work, you could always try muscling it off with the help of several carefully placed pry bars or a big gear puller as depicted below. Food for thought? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OqYsyJ57cY
  12. A lot of hard work . . . Ahem. Test drive with door not fully closed? And . . .
  13. Maybe, maybe not. These "adapters" could serve more than one purpose. Anti-foulers?
  14. The plugs clearly indicate a rich mixture and what appears to be oil residue. Changing: carb settings (leaner), plug heat range (warmer) and ignition timing (increase) are all things to consider as "low compression band-aids". You mentioned the smell of burning oil. Previously mentioned small oil leaks could account for this, but so could poorly ducted crankcase blowby. The valve cover vent was typically ducted into the airfilter housing. If, as you suspect, the engine is producing excessive blowby and/or the crankcase is venting in or near the engine bay, this could account for cabin fumes. Obviously, the impact of blowby can be mitigated by venting as far away from the cabin as possible (lengthy downdraft tube), or via an engine rebuild.
  15. I agree with other posters that the compression numbers, in and of themselves, indicate an engine in "fair" health, but not necessarily in dire need of hospitalization. You did not otherwise describe the state of the mechanicals, e.g., oil leaks, last repairs, etc. The fact that you performed the test with the engine warm and after valves were adjusted, is clearly a good thing. But, that also presumes the valves were properly adjusted on a (typically) cold engine. (Tight valve lash settings could easily account for some lower compression numbers.) The smell of burnt oil may obviously indicate oil that is finding its way into a combustion chamber. However, it may also come from a simple oil leak, that drips onto a hot exhaust component. Compression numbers are merely one of many engine health indicators. How accurate is your gauge? Do you get the same or similar measurements when the test is repeated? When confronted with a similar situation, I would look closely at spark plugs and place less importance on the compression numbers if, for example, the engine performed "relatively" well, no misfiring, acceptable fuel economy. Conversely, fouled spark plugs and rough running, viewed in conjunction with low compression numbers - speak for themselves.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.