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Excessive Slop With Worn Trunk Latch


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I've got exhaust fumes that I'm pretty certain are coming from the trunk.  I've installed a new trunklid seal, but I'm not able to properly adjust the latch due to too much wear in the pin on trunk side, the latch mechanism, or both.  When I adjust the bracket on the trunk lid so that I don't have to slam it down with excessive force, the lid will move up and down about 1/4".  Are these parts available?  Other tricks for adjustment or repair?  As it is now I would need to add quite a bit of foam either under the lid or under the new seal.

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The Trunk Lock (the part that goes on the trunk lid P/N 51 24 5 476 145) is available from someone like Blunt (blunttech.com).  Likewise, the Lock that is mounted on the body (P/N 51 24 5 476 142) is also available.  Any BMW dealership parts dept. can also get them for you.  I got a very good condition (P/N 51 24 5 476 142) unit on the Parts Wanted section of this board a couple of months ago - a less expensive transaction.

 

Bob Napier

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The part number 51 24 5 476 145 is the tumbler with key, but I'm thinking I might need the actual latching mechanism.  Most likely this part is okay, though.

 

I found 51 24 5 476 142 listed on BMW Parts Giant as something called "Plug" for $20, but they don't show a photo.  Is that what's mounted under the trunk lid?

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Here's a link to the factory diagrams of the parts you're looking for.  Scroll down for the P/Ns.

 

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/114-Sedan/USA/2002-M10/L-A/feb1975/browse/bodywork/#tailgate_rear_spoiler

 

I think one of my earlier P/Ns was incorrect.  The other one you're after is: Catch Bracket  P/N 51 24 5 476 140

 

Bob Napier

Portland, OR native and UO Grad

Edited by Napes
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You are focused on the trunk lid, but if the biggerl problem is exhaust fumes, you need to look further - how are the fumes getting in the trunk,and then how are they getting into the cabin? It seems unlikely that they would be going from the tailpipe into the crack under the lid,  and then into the cabin. Look under the rear seat for rust holes, and in front to see if what you are smelling is fumes from oil dripping on hot parts or something like that. The more common complaint about trunk odors is a raw gas smell.

Bill in MT

1969 and 1970 2002s

1988 735i

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Here's a link to the factory diagrams of the parts you're looking for.  Scroll down for the P/Ns.

 

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/114-Sedan/USA/2002-M10/L-A/feb1975/browse/bodywork/#tailgate_rear_spoiler

 

I think one of my earlier P/Ns was incorrect.  The other one you're after is: Catch Bracket  P/N 51 24 5 476 140

 

Bob Napier

Portland, OR native and UO Grad

 

That's very helpful, I hadn't found those diagrams before.  It does look like what I need are parts 8 and 9 to completely refresh it.  The catch bracket might be enough.

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/114-Sedan/USA/2002-M10/L-A/feb1975/browse/bodywork/trunk_lid_2

 

 

Let me know if you're heading out to the Gorge sometime. We should have a meet out here, maybe along with the vintage show and hillclimb at Maryhill in October, if not before.

Edited by dcmackintosh
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You are focused on the trunk lid, but if the biggerl problem is exhaust fumes, you need to look further - how are the fumes getting in the trunk,and then how are they getting into the cabin? It seems unlikely that they would be going from the tailpipe into the crack under the lid,  and then into the cabin. Look under the rear seat for rust holes, and in front to see if what you are smelling is fumes from oil dripping on hot parts or something like that. The more common complaint about trunk odors is a raw gas smell.

 

Thanks for the reply.  I have taped over or plugged the holes I could locate between the trunk and cabin, but I think there are some paths that I can't find.  The trunk also seems to pull a significant amount of dust when driving.  I haven't removed the back seat yet, I need to do that.  When I have had the trunk lid very tight (slamming very hard) there seems to be less fumes.  One thing I could easily try is taping around the gap as a test to see if that stops it.  The engine is clean and has no exhaust leaks, so I don't think it's coming from the front of the car. 

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