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dcmackintosh

Solex
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Everything posted by dcmackintosh

  1. Damn, I wish I was going to be in town!
  2. One more, same road. I've only been able to take static shots before, but I Shanghaied my daughter into making some passes for me.
  3. My restomod 2502 in the Hood River Valley orchards on Friday. Click for larger.
  4. I've taken static shots of my car here around the Gorge, but my daughter was home for spring break and I had her make a few passes for me on East Side Road just south of Hood River today. Best viewed full screen as a slideshow. Check them out if you like. http://www.dmackphoto.net/Columbia-River-Gorge/2502-East-Side-Rd/
  5. Stunning car! Drive it down to Hood River and visit my M20 '72 Inka sometime.
  6. I have no stock car numbers, but as a data point, my '72 M20 swap car with IE glass hood and no front bumper is 1,300 lb on the front axle and 1,200 lb on the rear, with me (190 lb) and a full tank of fuel. While my motor is stock except for intake and exhaust and I wouldn't mind a bit more power, I'd try hard to not add weight to get there. With my limited electrical skills, I appreciate how little wiring is in the car too.
  7. I'm not a big fan of the wheels, but they would be easy to clean, and I think the car looks great. I'm not in the market for another myself, but I could check it out for someone on a weekend sometime.
  8. Wow, I love those wheels in 7x13. Even if I could find them here I'd have to go back to a stock front front brake setup, which I don't have, though.
  9. It would look super cool, though! Absolutely, the moment of inertia of rotating components will effect both acceleration and braking, much more than the same amount of weight placed elsewhere. I think the biggest benefit to F1 to going to larger rims and low-profile tires would be to suspension development. Those tall tires are big springs, with damping built into the construction, but no real control over it by the team. The suspensions would have to be completely rethought, at considerable expense, but I think the gains would be significant. Introducing a change in the rules like that would be a tremendous hardship to the less well funded teams, though.
  10. It appears that F1 regulations require 13" diameter rims front and rear. The designers don't get to choose what might be faster. The maximum tire diameter is also specified and I imagine that the tires are designed to that limit. http://www.formula1.com/inside_f1/rules_and_regulations/technical_regulations/5277/fia.html With larger rims one could use larger brake discs, which I expect would be advantageous, but of course these are also limited. No ABS is also a signicant limitation, no matter how skilled the driver he or she can't control each wheel independently. http://www.formula1.com/inside_f1/rules_and_regulations/technical_regulations/5261/ I don't know what the reasons for these size limits are, I would think that perfomance could be gained by running larger rims and brakes. Of course comparing what is desireable in an F1 car to any road car is fairly silly in any case.
  11. Thanks for the reply. Sensor is probably the correct term. You're correct that it only has one lead. I'm not sure how it works internally, but it's obviously intended to make that wire a ground at the desired temperature. I may have to pull it to determine the threads.
  12. My '02 received an M20 conversion two owners ago, and I've had a few minor things to sort out. Since I got the car a few months ago the electric pusher fan always came on with the ignition and I thought it must have just been wired that way. Yesterday I noticed that it wasn't coming on at all, and the temp did climb past it's usual position (parked at 180F on the aftermarket gage). I know next to nothing about electrics, but I did poke around and determine that there's a relay (top right of the photo) which had switched power, and a thermo switch on the aluminum radiator. After cleaning the spade contact on the switch and some wiggling, the fan did come on with the ignition. It also comes on if I touch the wire to the radiator. The switch appears to have failed closed, at least most of the time. It also appears to have teflon tape on the threads, which doesn't seem like a good idea, unless the coolant is enough of a ground. I'm trying to determine if the switch is something I can just pick up at NAPA before I drain the radiator. It's located next to the hose at the thermostat outlet (I assume). There's also a radiator hose at the same side on the top (the return?). The rad cap drains to the ground (no overflow tank), if that matters. Would it be easy to get a matching part without pulling this one? Does a 91C switch sound good here? What should I use on the threads? Any other tips? Thanks!
  13. By the time you get the second one in you'll have figured it out, and you may still have several fingers.
  14. I've found a couple of nice pieces of 2002 art and I thought it would be nice to start a thread. Post an image along with a link to the artist's site, or how it can be purchased. I found this through Petrolicious today. Emmanuel Margault.
  15. I've also got a '94 Miata with stock motor and Flyin' Miata suspension, which I bought to teach my older daughter to drive about five years ago. It's a much more modern, more comfortable, sweeter-handling, and safer car than my '72 M20 '02. Also cheaper. My younger daughter can start learning to drive it in another year or so. My '02 is much less suitable, but a later one that's closer to stock would be closer. I almost always choose to drive the '02 unless I want some sun.
  16. I just use some cheap 3/4" nuts over the studs as spacers, very easy. I like the idea of adding a lever to turn the drum while adjusting, though.
  17. It's hard for me to imagine that one of those springs would go bad, we're not talking about bending a paper clip here. I would compare the distance between the ends of the one that you think is bad vs. the other one or have someone measure one that's not installed for you.
  18. The torsional spring constant formula is given under A.4 here. Whether or not you have reason to calculate it, it may be of interest to note that the stiffness is directly proportional to the inverse of the length of the bar or tube, and proportional to the 4th power of the diameter. For example, going from a 1.0" to a 1.25" bar increases the stiffness by a factor of almost 2.5. The effective linear spring rate applied by the end link is also directly proportional to the length of the lever arm, of course. The shear modulus for carbon steel is 11.2 x 10^6 psi.
  19. I expect those bars have very close to the same stiffness as a 1-piece bar of the same size tube or rod and geometry. Even with a 1-piece bar, torsion of the center section has a much softer spring rate than bending of the arms (I admit that I haven't calculated it). Possible adjustments would be changing the length of the arms or the diameter, wall thickness, or length of the transverse torsion spring.
  20. The light weight is what makes an '02 so great to drive, but power rear vent windows would be cool, since those are the ones that aren't really easy to actuate while driving. My 2004 Toyota Sienna van has them, but they regressed to manual levers in the new ones.
  21. Nice looking '02 and early 911s! I've always loved the Gulf colors, I'm tempted to add the blue to my (not originally) Inka '02.
  22. I can't explain why I think these steelies so good, but I do. I'd love a set in 15x6.
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