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bill.in.mt

Solex
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Everything posted by bill.in.mt

  1. #4 is a spacer to keep the grille from scratching the paint on the front panel.
  2. One clunk or a series? At all speeds, in all gears? Only when accelerating? If it is just one clunk as you start to accelerate, see if the exhaust pipe is hitting the side of the differential.
  3. You are focused on the trunk lid, but if the biggerl problem is exhaust fumes, you need to look further - how are the fumes getting in the trunk,and then how are they getting into the cabin? It seems unlikely that they would be going from the tailpipe into the crack under the lid, and then into the cabin. Look under the rear seat for rust holes, and in front to see if what you are smelling is fumes from oil dripping on hot parts or something like that. The more common complaint about trunk odors is a raw gas smell.
  4. anti freeze might be dripping from one of the heater hoses? Check level in radiator - a leak shouldn't cause an increase in temperature unless the fluid level is lower. anti freeze might be dripping from one of the heater hoses? Check level in radiator - a leak shouldn't cause an increase in temperature unless the fluid level is lower.
  5. Emergency brake off and cable relaxed?
  6. Be aware that you can't "snug it down" with the vertical bolts until you loosen the horizontal ones.
  7. It depends on where the leak is. If it is below the head gasket, you might need lots of stuff, including a head gasket possibly. If it is on top of the head gasket, the two upper chain cover gaskets and a dab of gasket sealer in the corners should do it. Be sure to tighten the upper cover bolts in the correct sequence.
  8. There are 2 possibilities. One sender is longer than the other. The tii had a deeper tank, and longer sender. If your sender reaches near the bottom of your tank, it is the right length. The short one will work in a tii tank, but won't pick up the last 1/3 tank of gas, so it will show empty and you will come to a stop, when there is still gas in the tank. The tii sender won't fit in the wrong tank.
  9. You can get them in with soapy water and a press. You can rig up a bolt, nut and big socket as a sort of press.
  10. No, it will work better. More CCA = more time to crank the engine until the battery runs down.
  11. Most of it will be obvious as you dismantle stuff. If there is a gasket, match it and replace it. There will be some extra o-rings and stuff that go nowhere, in all likelihood. They may be included for other models or for stuff you don't end up taking apart.
  12. You could also try suction on the bleed screw and see if that gets things moving. Harbor Freight sells a cheap suction bleeder tht works OK.
  13. Be careful coasting with the engine off that your steering isn't locked - keep the key in the "run" position.
  14. I don't think the vacuum advance on the distributor is a factor with a poor idle, unless the plate is stuck in the advanced position. It is designed to advance under acceleration, so it would affect performance at high speed rather than idle. A vacuum leak could be a factor. spray carb cleaner or wave an unlit propane torch near vacuum hoses and ports (have a fire extinguisher handy, although I have never had trouble doing this) and if the idle picks up you have found the leak.
  15. Second the need to check your idle jet. Blow it out and see if the idle speed improves.
  16. the ground for the directionals is the housing touching the body of the car, so you are getting a normal condition when the bulb has to touch steel to work.
  17. On early 2002s the tach wire is black and goes from the distributor.
  18. you can separate whether it is engine or further back by determining if it happens when you are coasting with the engine off vs. sitting still with the engine on.
  19. Could you drive it part way out and then cut off the head?
  20. If it were an earlier 2002, the first thing to check is that the headlight switch is not rotated all the way to the "dash lights out" position. Do 1976 switches operate the same way?
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