alarm/keyless entry and power lock install questions

[supark]

Got an A1electric central locking system and a DEI Avital 3100 alarm for the 2002. The power locks were pretty easy to install. I also got the door lock button which was also a no brainer.

What I'm finding though is that the alarm has more capabilities than my car really is able to support. Looks like one of the previous owners cut out the door open switches (the ones in the door hinges that would alert the alarm that the door is open). That would pretty much negate the use of the green and violet wire in the alarm harness.

My first question is, if I don't really care about the door sensors, do I need to wire those in to make the alarm work? It just wouldn't go off when the doors open right?

Also, where is the best place to wire parking light wire (white) and the interior illumination relay (black/white). I might actually end up skipping the latter if I have to wire a separate relay to illuminate the interior lights...

Lastly, what are you guys using for rubber grommets when you're running wires through the doors?

Orange: optional sensor or accessory

White: parking light wire

White/Blue: optional accessories

Black/White: Interior light illumination relay

Green: Negative door pin switch

Blue: Negative trunk pin (optional)

Violet: Positive door pin switch

Black: ground

Yellow: Ignition input

Red: constant power

Red/White: optional

[DennisR]

I just finished up installing the Avital 3100L with a MES central locking system on my 76'. After some head scratching, much wiring diagram scanning and some questionable experimentation, I decided to connect the "parking light flasher" (white wire) to the one of the wires coming from the back of my headlight switch. The wiring for the left and right sides of the car are split into two circuits. The easiest place to find all the wires you need is behind the dash at the headlight switch. I removed the gage cluster (which led to a thorough cleaning of the gauges and a rattle can rebuild for cleaner light reflecting surfaces plus the addition of a couple of extra ground wires- but that's another story. . . ). There's a terminal 58R and a 58L marked on the headlight switch. I experimented by jumpering a (fused 10 amp for testing) wire to each of the terminals behind the switch. It seemed to me that there might be a way to incorporate a relay into the system that would allow both the Left and Right sides of the system to flash but in the end I picked the wire from 58L to tap for the flash. Now when I activate the alarm/door locks both the front and rear, driver's side, parking lights flash.

I struggled with how to get the door locking wires through the A pillars and into the doors. I bought a set of billet aluminum looms that ended up being just a little too small for the door locking wires and the speaker wires. Not wanting to have a zillion holes in my car, I opted to use a smaller diameter rubber grommet in the A pillar and a larger one on the door side. I used heat shrink tube to combine the door locking system's wires with the speaker wires (so it all looks like one cable). The smaller grommet holds the wires securely in the A pillar and the larger one (in the door) allows for some "sliding" as the door opens and closes.

I never did wire the interior illumination light as the car uses a grounding switch at the door to light the dome light. I figured it was way too much trouble to run a separate wire with a relay all the way up to the dome light. Maybe someone else here has done it and there's a simple solution. . .

And finally, I don't know too much about your door switch issue. It seems like it should all work without that wire connected although the documentation that came with my kit indicates that the GREEN wire on the main harness is one of the "must be connected" wires. You might want to experiment by pulling the switch out of the A pillar (if there's still a switch there) and just connecting the green wire to one or the other doors.

My system has been installed for about a week now and I'll have to admit it's pretty nice. I set it off once already by closing the trunk lid a little too hard. So I'd say the alarm feature is pretty right on (beware rollerblade stealing rascals from the neighborhood!).

Good luck with the install and I'll be watching your thread to see if/how others have worked out the bugs.

[yeewiz]

For my 02, I have a DEI unit but without the alarm. But I did use the starter kill feature. I've installed the DEI alarm unit in my truck. Your guess is correct, if you don't want to alarm the door, don't wire up the lead.

As for the grommets, I just used standard Ace or Home Depot ones. Here's a pix of the passenger side. The door grommet is the next size up from the body side grommet so the DEI wire slides nicely in and out of the door.

BTW, you might want to consider KISS, you'll hear the clunk of the door lock actuators go on so you might forego the visual parking light confirmations, just an idea

[supark]

Awesome thanks guys - all very helpful. Decided to go without the dome light and parking light wires. Now I'm actually trying to decide if I want to even go without the starter interrupt as well...

The previous owner ran a wire over to the ignition system for an aftermarket stereo so that saves me a little work. Just curious, what is the usual source for ignition on input?

[DennisR]

I just sorted out an "ignition on" wire from the wire bundle originating from the ignition switch and used a trailer splice to tap in. So far it seems to be working just fine. . .

I'm curious, where did you end up mounting your interior door lock button?

[supark]

I just sorted out an "ignition on" wire from the wire bundle originating from the ignition switch and used a trailer splice to tap in. So far it seems to be working just fine. . .

I'm curious, where did you end up mounting your interior door lock button?

Just finished wrapping it up for the most part. For some reason the passenger side door panel was a breeze to get back on, but the driver side was stupid hard.. Still couldn't get it perfect - wondering if there's some sort of trick to it..

Ended up just using the ignition on wire from an aftermarket radio install in the car... I hope it's the right one haha. Getting things routed in the center console I managed to unplug the hazard button and after driving around with non working turn signals, realized that they don't work when the hazard button is unplugged - another 2002 quirk

My car had a bit of a hackjob center console to mount the aftermarket radio player, so decided to redo it with some vinyl and wood. That's tomorrow's project.. pics to follow!

[PatAllen]

i suggest that you should wire up at least one of the door input wire even if you dont use the alarm section, if you have to learn something on the unit (lost keyfob or features change), the unit must see a door open during learn step sequences. Have the VALET and the ignition input wire also wired for that purpose.

just a suggestion... (i work for DEI as electronic engineer/software programmer especialy for theses...)

[DennisR]

i suggest that you should wire up at least one of the door input wire even if you dont use the alarm section, if you have to learn something on the unit (lost keyfob or features change), the unit must see a door open during learn step sequences. Have the VALET and the ignition input wire also wired for that purpose.

just a suggestion... (i work for DEI as electronic engineer/software programmer especialy for theses...)

Hi Pat,

Thanks for writing in on this one. I just knew there would be someone out there with the inside scoop on these systems. Do you have any suggestions for the other issues we have been talking about?

1. Is there a way to connect the right and left parking light circuits so both sides will flash on a 2002?

2. How about a tip on how to hook up the relayed circuit for the interior dome light?

Thanks and I really do like the whole system. I get a little smile on my face every time I use the remote to lock my doors

[PatAllen]

i suggest that you should wire up at least one of the door input wire even if you dont use the alarm section, if you have to learn something on the unit (lost keyfob or features change), the unit must see a door open during learn step sequences. Have the VALET and the ignition input wire also wired for that purpose.

just a suggestion... (i work for DEI as electronic engineer/software programmer especialy for theses...)

Hi Pat,

Thanks for writing in on this one. I just knew there would be someone out there with the inside scoop on these systems. Do you have any suggestions for the other issues we have been talking about?

1. Is there a way to connect the right and left parking light circuits so both sides will flash on a 2002?

2. How about a tip on how to hook up the relayed circuit for the interior dome light?

Thanks and I really do like the whole system. I get a little smile on my face every time I use the remote to lock my doors

yes you can do that all. It is still quite mysterious why the german engineer seperated theses circuit. Once "powered" they are not seperated anymore, ie, connected to the same source. Go figure. Some cars where equiped with a unique feature so you where able to lighten up only one side of the car...not sure when the 02 stoped to have it, i know some had it...

The hack way is to simply connect both circuit together, which works perfect...

The correct way is to use 1n4004 diodes (1n400x series), with the band of the diode going to each parking circuit. Tie together the other side of the diode and connect to the white wire parking output. Make sure you have put the fuse on the unit so it will send +12v (yu can put it to send -ground)

Note that theses diode can support 1amp maximum for brief periods otherwise they will heat up and eventualy burn. they do smell baaad when they do so.

For the dome output, you will need a common automotive relay since the open collector ouput of the unit can barely drive more than .5a, and is limited with a 10ohm resistor (the idiot proof security).

*85 to the negative dome output of the alarm system

*86 to a +12v constant source, fused if possible

*30 to ground

*87 to the dome light door switch (make sure you dont use the chime circuit...)

hth...

[DennisR]

Thanks for the detailed instructions Pat! I just reinstalled all my under-dash trim panels yesterday. Now I'm going to get to dig back into my car to make these adjustments. I'm excited about getting things dialed in and fully functional so this is VERY COOL!

Just to clarify, when you say:

For the dome output, you will need a common automotive relay since the open collector ouput of the unit can barely drive more than .5a, and is limited with a 10ohm resistor (the idiot proof security).

*85 to the negative dome output of the alarm system

*86 to a +12v constant source, fused if possible

*30 to ground

*87 to the dome light door switch (make sure you dont use the chime circuit...)

*85 to the negative dome output of the alarm system - Is this the Black/White wire marked interior illumination(-) 200 mA, that I see in the instruction booklet's wiring diagram?

*87 to the dome light door switch (make sure you dont use the chime circuit...) What is the "chime circuit"? I'm thinking that you are talking about taping into the same wire that I used for the negative door pin switch/green wire=door trigger input

and finally, where might I find the diodes you speak of for isolating the parking light circuits? Radio Shack???

Who knows maybe when we're done this thread can be added to the FAQ work on door locks and alarm systems that others here have done. When I get back into it I'll be sure to take some photos to document the fine points.

Cheers!

[PatAllen]

black/white...yes

chime circuit...there i two wires that goes to the driver side door switch. only one will turn on the light, the other is the chime circuit to let you know you forgot your keys.

for the diodes, yes, radio scrap or any electronic store like that... Digikey, Mouser, Allied,...on the internet too, e-bay,...

theses can be buy by train lot and cost fration of cents. i have myself a roll of 1000pcs that i paid like 10$ few years ago.

1n4001 also does well, the last digit is just the maximum voltage rating, which the 12v of the 02 wont reach ever wathever 1n4000 you get.

[yeewiz]

Dennis, this is what A1electric said when I had a similar issue on the truck:

"I think we used to use 1N5400 diodes. I believe 1N4001 will work fine too,

they're just smaller and more delicate."

I used the 1N4001, get them at Radio Shack

[DennisR]

As for your door panel replacement, just keep chanting the matra "patience and alignment, patience and alignment. . . "

First get the top into position and then persuade it down so the clips engage over the door metal at the window.. the window crank and door handle attachment points should line up when the panel is down correctly.

The next part was the tricky part for me. I managed to break 3 or 4 of the little green plastic clips (unfortunately, the door panel had to be removed again so I could replace the clips I had broken). I finally gave in and laid on my back on the garage floor to visually align each of the remaining intact clips. Once they were properly aligned they pressed (not pounded. . . ) into position with little or no trouble.

I repeat, "patience and alignment. . . "

good luck!

[DennisR]

black/white...yes

chime circuit...there i two wires that goes to the driver side door switch. only one will turn on the light, the other is the chime circuit to let you know you forgot your keys.

for the diodes, yes, radio scrap or any electronic store like that... Digikey, Mouser, Allied,...on the internet too, e-bay,...

theses can be buy by train lot and cost fration of cents. i have myself a roll of 1000pcs that i paid like 10$ few years ago.

1n4001 also does well, the last digit is just the maximum voltage rating, which the 12v of the 02 wont reach ever wathever 1n4000 you get.

Well I had some time this morning and decided to go for diode install so that all of the parking lights flash when I use the remote to unlock/lock the doors. I was able to buy two of the 1N4004 diodes from Radio Shack for $1.08 (well within my restoration budget!). I soldered them into the system as you suggested and AhHa! it works like a charm High fives all around!

While things were apart I was also able to install a new stereo head unit as my old one's CD player was non-op. So now I have good tunes and awesome blinking lights!

Next break in the action I plan to tackle the illusive dome light relay challenge!

Thanks to all for the help. . .