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DennisR

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Everything posted by DennisR

  1. I know this is a long shot but do you still have these bars? I'm in the Bay area and looking for a set to upgrade. . . Thanks
  2. It's been a while since I've been able to hang out with you guys. The car is finally back up and running so I'll see you tomorrow morning in Walnut Creek. Looking forward to it!
  3. I used a couple of these and three manfrotto super clamps to put a similar rig together. . . http://www.mytoolstore.com/woods/mounts.html good luck and can't wait to see what you come up with!
  4. Hi Bob, Sorry I won't be able to make it to the rendezvous this year. I had a blast last time. I have something I have to take care of first thing on Saturday morning but I'll be heading to the show at about 10:30 so I'll see you there. I hope you are planning to bring your camera! Dennis
  5. I highly recommend George at Express Auto Glass. He did a great job on my 76' last spring and has since done 3 other cars for me. He knows 2002's and backs his work 100%. He's mobile and works in the San Jose area. Please tell him I said hello! 408-202-6700
  6. You can look all this up at: http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/calaw.html Here's a head start for you with the research I've done so far. . . I still need to run down how the BAR is going to know my car is insured as a collector car and how this information gets communicated to the smog test guy. I'm hoping that a copy of my insurance policy will sadisfy them on this point. The California Health and Safety Code, section 44011 states: 44011. (a) All motor vehicles powered by internal combustion engines that are registered within an area designated for program coverage shall be required biennially to obtain a certificate of compliance or noncompliance, except for the following: and: © For purposes of subdivision (a), a collector motor vehicle, as defined in Section 259 of the Vehicle Code, is exempt from those portions of the test required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 if the collector motor vehicle meets all of the following criteria: (1) Submission of proof that the motor vehicle is insured as a collector motor vehicle, as shall be required by regulation of the bureau. (2) The motor vehicle is at least 35 model-years old. (3) The motor vehicle complies with the exhaust emissions standards for that motor vehicle's class and model-year as prescribed by the department, and the motor vehicle passes a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks. (d) This section shall become operative on January 1, 2010. H&S 44012 F (f) A visual or functional check is made of emission control devices specified by the department, including the catalytic converter in those instances in which the department determines it to be necessary to meet the findings of Section 44001. The visual or functional check shall be performed in accordance with procedures prescribed by the department. CVC 4000.1 requires smog for vehicles of the 1976 model year and later... and; (g) For purposes of subdivision (a), any collector motor vehicle, as defined in Section 259, is exempt from those portions of the test required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 of the Health and Safety Code, if the collector motor vehicle meets all of the following criteria: (1) Submission of proof that the motor vehicle is insured as a collector motor vehicle, as shall be required by regulation of the bureau. (2) The motor vehicle is at least 35 model-years old. (3) The motor vehicle complies with the exhaust emissions standards for that motor vehicle's class and model year as prescribed by the department, and the motor vehicle passes a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks. So reading this (at least my preliminary take is this)- - Thanks to Hagerty Insurance mine is a "collector vehicle (check). - As of January 1, 2011 our cars will be "at least 35 years old" (check). - My fuel cap is functional, there are no liquid fuel leaks and, hopefully with the EFI from a 1985 318i it will meet and pass the standards for a 76' 2002. (check, check, check---I think!). As I said before, I'm still in the process of researching and there are definitely still some things that need looking into. BUT--- If it all works out, your car can have just about any equipment under the hood (from a non-stock air cleaner to EFI and, as long as it passes the functional test for a 1976 vehicle (ie. it isn't a polluter) it should be O.K. more references: CVC 259 259. "Collector motor vehicle" means a motor vehicle owned by a collector, as defined in subdivision (a) of Section 5051, and the motor vehicle is used primarily in shows, parades, charitable functions, and historical exhibitions for display, maintenance, and preservation, and is not used primarily for transportation. CVC 5051. As used in this article, unless the context otherwise requires: (a) "Collector" is the owner of one or more vehicles described in Section 5004 or of one or more special interest vehicles, as defined in this article, who collects, purchases, acquires, trades, or disposes of the vehicle, or parts thereof, for his or her own use, in order to preserve, restore, and maintain the vehicle for hobby or historical purposes. CVC 5004 5004. (a) Notwithstanding any other provision of this code, any owner of a vehicle described in paragraph (1), (2), or (3) which is operated or moved over the highway primarily for the purpose of historical exhibition or other similar purpose shall, upon application in the manner and at the time prescribed by the department, be issued special identification plates for the vehicle: (1) A motor vehicle with an engine of 16 or more cylinders manufactured prior to 1965. (2) A motor vehicle manufactured in the year 1922 or prior thereto. (3) A vehicle which was manufactured after 1922, is at least 25 years old, and is of historic interest.
  7. California law for your 76' changes on January 1, 2011. I've been researching the possibility of converting my 76' to EFI and I'm pretty sure that after 1/1/11, as long as your car passes the emissions standards, the only visual inspection it will have to pass is for fuel leaks and gas cap. Now there are a couple of "catches" but it's worth looking into. Here's the link to another post on smog stuff for us cali-folks: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,349776/highlight,/ Good luck!
  8. AWESOME! Great video and photos from all!!! Hope to see you all on the next drive.
  9. I wouldn't be too quick to unload your 76! I have one and I'm in the process of researching the emissions requirements for a possible EFI upgrade in 2011. The California Health and Safety Code, section 44011 states: 44011. (a) All motor vehicles powered by internal combustion engines that are registered within an area designated for program coverage shall be required biennially to obtain a certificate of compliance or noncompliance, except for the following: and: © For purposes of subdivision (a), a collector motor vehicle, as defined in Section 259 of the Vehicle Code, is exempt from those portions of the test required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 if the collector motor vehicle meets all of the following criteria: (1) Submission of proof that the motor vehicle is insured as a collector motor vehicle, as shall be required by regulation of the bureau. (2) The motor vehicle is at least 35 model-years old. (3) The motor vehicle complies with the exhaust emissions standards for that motor vehicle's class and model-year as prescribed by the department, and the motor vehicle passes a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks. (d) This section shall become operative on January 1, 2010. H&S 44012 F (f) A visual or functional check is made of emission control devices specified by the department, including the catalytic converter in those instances in which the department determines it to be necessary to meet the findings of Section 44001. The visual or functional check shall be performed in accordance with procedures prescribed by the department. CVC 4000.1 requires smog for vehicles of the 1976 model year and later... and; (g) For purposes of subdivision (a), any collector motor vehicle, as defined in Section 259, is exempt from those portions of the test required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 of the Health and Safety Code, if the collector motor vehicle meets all of the following criteria: (1) Submission of proof that the motor vehicle is insured as a collector motor vehicle, as shall be required by regulation of the bureau. (2) The motor vehicle is at least 35 model-years old. (3) The motor vehicle complies with the exhaust emissions standards for that motor vehicle's class and model year as prescribed by the department, and the motor vehicle passes a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks. So reading this (at least my preliminary take is this)- - Thanks to Hagerty Insurance mine is a "collector vehicle (check). - As of January 1, 2011 our cars will be "at least 35 years old" (check). - My fuel cap is functional, there are no liquid fuel leaks and, hopefully with the EFI from a 1985 318i it will meet and pass the standards for a 76' 2002. (check, check, check---I think!). As I said before, I'm still in the process of researching and there are definitely still some things that need looking into. BUT--- If it all works out, your car can have just about any equipment under the hood (from a non-stock air cleaner to EFI and, as long as it passes the functional test for a 1976 vehicle (ie. it isn't a polluter) it should be O.K. more references: CVC 259 259. "Collector motor vehicle" means a motor vehicle owned by a collector, as defined in subdivision (a) of Section 5051, and the motor vehicle is used primarily in shows, parades, charitable functions, and historical exhibitions for display, maintenance, and preservation, and is not used primarily for transportation. CVC 5051. As used in this article, unless the context otherwise requires: (a) "Collector" is the owner of one or more vehicles described in Section 5004 or of one or more special interest vehicles, as defined in this article, who collects, purchases, acquires, trades, or disposes of the vehicle, or parts thereof, for his or her own use, in order to preserve, restore, and maintain the vehicle for hobby or historical purposes. CVC 5004 5004. (a) Notwithstanding any other provision of this code, any owner of a vehicle described in paragraph (1), (2), or (3) which is operated or moved over the highway primarily for the purpose of historical exhibition or other similar purpose shall, upon application in the manner and at the time prescribed by the department, be issued special identification plates for the vehicle: (1) A motor vehicle with an engine of 16 or more cylinders manufactured prior to 1965. (2) A motor vehicle manufactured in the year 1922 or prior thereto. (3) A vehicle which was manufactured after 1922, is at least 25 years old, and is of historic interest. I'm sure that folks reading this that are not from California are shaking their heads and going cross eyed right now. But that's the price we pay for living here on the "left coast". I'll keep you posted as I find out more. . . I'd be interested to know if anyone out there has a Mega Squirted car that they have run an emissions test on and what the results were. . .
  10. Here are a couple of my images. Many thanks to Larry, Paul, Matt and the others that helped pull the day together. I'll bet Curt was smiling as as we buzzed through the twisties on Redwood Road!. What a wonderful way to be remembered. . . Thanks again for a great day/drive!!
  11. Well I had some time this morning and decided to go for diode install so that all of the parking lights flash when I use the remote to unlock/lock the doors. I was able to buy two of the 1N4004 diodes from Radio Shack for $1.08 (well within my restoration budget!). I soldered them into the system as you suggested and AhHa! it works like a charm High fives all around! While things were apart I was also able to install a new stereo head unit as my old one's CD player was non-op. So now I have good tunes and awesome blinking lights! Next break in the action I plan to tackle the illusive dome light relay challenge! Thanks to all for the help. . .
  12. As for your door panel replacement, just keep chanting the matra "patience and alignment, patience and alignment. . . " First get the top into position and then persuade it down so the clips engage over the door metal at the window.. the window crank and door handle attachment points should line up when the panel is down correctly. The next part was the tricky part for me. I managed to break 3 or 4 of the little green plastic clips (unfortunately, the door panel had to be removed again so I could replace the clips I had broken). I finally gave in and laid on my back on the garage floor to visually align each of the remaining intact clips. Once they were properly aligned they pressed (not pounded. . . ) into position with little or no trouble. I repeat, "patience and alignment. . . " good luck!
  13. Thanks for the detailed instructions Pat! I just reinstalled all my under-dash trim panels yesterday. Now I'm going to get to dig back into my car to make these adjustments. I'm excited about getting things dialed in and fully functional so this is VERY COOL! Just to clarify, when you say: For the dome output, you will need a common automotive relay since the open collector ouput of the unit can barely drive more than .5a, and is limited with a 10ohm resistor (the idiot proof security). *85 to the negative dome output of the alarm system *86 to a +12v constant source, fused if possible *30 to ground *87 to the dome light door switch (make sure you dont use the chime circuit...) *85 to the negative dome output of the alarm system - Is this the Black/White wire marked interior illumination(-) 200 mA, that I see in the instruction booklet's wiring diagram? *87 to the dome light door switch (make sure you dont use the chime circuit...) What is the "chime circuit"? I'm thinking that you are talking about taping into the same wire that I used for the negative door pin switch/green wire=door trigger input and finally, where might I find the diodes you speak of for isolating the parking light circuits? Radio Shack??? Who knows maybe when we're done this thread can be added to the FAQ work on door locks and alarm systems that others here have done. When I get back into it I'll be sure to take some photos to document the fine points. Cheers!
  14. Hi Pat, Thanks for writing in on this one. I just knew there would be someone out there with the inside scoop on these systems. Do you have any suggestions for the other issues we have been talking about? 1. Is there a way to connect the right and left parking light circuits so both sides will flash on a 2002? 2. How about a tip on how to hook up the relayed circuit for the interior dome light? Thanks and I really do like the whole system. I get a little smile on my face every time I use the remote to lock my doors
  15. I just sorted out an "ignition on" wire from the wire bundle originating from the ignition switch and used a trailer splice to tap in. So far it seems to be working just fine. . . I'm curious, where did you end up mounting your interior door lock button?
  16. I just finished up installing the Avital 3100L with a MES central locking system on my 76'. After some head scratching, much wiring diagram scanning and some questionable experimentation, I decided to connect the "parking light flasher" (white wire) to the one of the wires coming from the back of my headlight switch. The wiring for the left and right sides of the car are split into two circuits. The easiest place to find all the wires you need is behind the dash at the headlight switch. I removed the gage cluster (which led to a thorough cleaning of the gauges and a rattle can rebuild for cleaner light reflecting surfaces plus the addition of a couple of extra ground wires- but that's another story. . . ). There's a terminal 58R and a 58L marked on the headlight switch. I experimented by jumpering a (fused 10 amp for testing) wire to each of the terminals behind the switch. It seemed to me that there might be a way to incorporate a relay into the system that would allow both the Left and Right sides of the system to flash but in the end I picked the wire from 58L to tap for the flash. Now when I activate the alarm/door locks both the front and rear, driver's side, parking lights flash. I struggled with how to get the door locking wires through the A pillars and into the doors. I bought a set of billet aluminum looms that ended up being just a little too small for the door locking wires and the speaker wires. Not wanting to have a zillion holes in my car, I opted to use a smaller diameter rubber grommet in the A pillar and a larger one on the door side. I used heat shrink tube to combine the door locking system's wires with the speaker wires (so it all looks like one cable). The smaller grommet holds the wires securely in the A pillar and the larger one (in the door) allows for some "sliding" as the door opens and closes. I never did wire the interior illumination light as the car uses a grounding switch at the door to light the dome light. I figured it was way too much trouble to run a separate wire with a relay all the way up to the dome light. Maybe someone else here has done it and there's a simple solution. . . And finally, I don't know too much about your door switch issue. It seems like it should all work without that wire connected although the documentation that came with my kit indicates that the GREEN wire on the main harness is one of the "must be connected" wires. You might want to experiment by pulling the switch out of the A pillar (if there's still a switch there) and just connecting the green wire to one or the other doors. My system has been installed for about a week now and I'll have to admit it's pretty nice. I set it off once already by closing the trunk lid a little too hard. So I'd say the alarm feature is pretty right on (beware rollerblade stealing rascals from the neighborhood!). Good luck with the install and I'll be watching your thread to see if/how others have worked out the bugs.
  17. I had my intake manifold done in a light gray/aluminum then cleared over the top last year. I had them mask off the gasket surface (where the carb mounts to the manifold) so it wouldn't get powder coated. It seems to be holding up pretty well. Only complaint I'd have is that fuel seems to be leaking in under the powder coat clear and discoloring where the carb meets the manifold gasket. I think if I was going to do another I'd try to figure out if powder coating the gasket surface would prevent the "leaking" in under the coating.
  18. Sorry to hear about your car/insurance issues. Here's a link to the 2002s listed on Craig's list. You should be able to pick the ones that make your point. Good luck, http://www2.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cgi?cat=cp&itm=bmw+2002&loc=&fil=&ys=1974&ye=1976&ps=&pe=&pgs=100&submit=++++go++++
  19. Well, I'm not ready to go out anything yet. The project is not that far along. I am interested in what anyone has that fits well into the space where the battery used to be (what brackets are you using, etc). Photos would be greatly appreciated.
  20. Hey, I'm one of those viewers that interested in others experience too. I'm considering converting over to the late-model 320i injection system and would love any information regarding what K&N style filter system would work. I know folks have done it. . . K&N makes a ton of products there must be someone with an opinion/experience that can simplify the search. . . anyone???
  21. Zenon Holtz seems to have this problem figured out here: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/bmvseite/ His solution is in line with Jimk said above. I'd be interested to know if there's a fan control switch solution that can be salvaged from another model BMW (rather than building one from scratch as Zenon did). dr
  22. I just bought a set of cables from Bell BMW they were about $84.00 each: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=26 54-12-1-801-433 Left cable 54-12-1-801-434 Right cable
  23. I've had the same issue with the 3M product so I bought some of this. Haven't tried it yet but it's in my plan. . . http://classicandspeedparts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=23&flypage=flypage.tpl&pop=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
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