engine and drivetrain automatic and carb; bogging down

[ChuckR]

here's a question on my stock '69 automatic, used to run the original single barrel solex - and i used to be able to 'chrip' the tires from a stop, or at least it was very quick and agressive. The engine is very healthy, just did compression check and all is good with it.

that carb was leaking gas and had other issues, so I installed a Weber 32/36 progressive two barrel, and now it's a dog on acceleration from stop. if i slam on the gas, it tends to choke it and it bogs down, if i'm more gentle it still bogs a bit, but at speed that car is very quick to accelarate and is responsive.

any other automatic owners with similar setup?

is there an adjustment for the carb-it's box stock? or the tranny-can it be adjusted to stay in 1st gear longer?

thanks, chuck

[c.d.iesel]

...my WEBER perscription:

32/36

Float Level 40mm

PRIMARY

idle 60

main 140

air correction 145

SECONDARY

idle 55

main 170

air correction 175

....keep in mind that depending on how high you are (above sea level)and ambient temps, extreme cold or hot either way, these settings may need a half to full jet size up or down on Main & Air Correction.ALWAYS keep the AIR Correction jet size larger than it's mated Main jet (170 main - 175,180,190 air Corr.)

Adjust throttle control shaft (carb to firewall shaft)so it is level and straight - inline with carb, adjust with piviot bracket on firewall. Then adjust rod end (on rod coming up from pedal box to control shaft)to achieve full throttle opening on carb stop when depressing gas pedal and you looking at rear of carb to confirm full opening.

DO NOT PRESUME 'a stock rebuild" ????

this carb is so simple, but even simpler for someone to s_ _ _ up !!!

BUY & READ any of the books about WEBER carbs

>>>>>>>>>>>>>----------<<<<<<<<<<------<<<<<>>>>>>>>>------

The other major improvement is when you have the carb top section off, plug the hole in the carb that mates with a tiny brass jet in the carb top. There's only one.

Use epoxy to plug the brass tube.

It's a secondary enrichment passage, allows "course" amount of gas to be drawn on secondary opening. By closing it off you run solely on main and air correction jets. Much more precise than with passage open. Trust me, you'll grin after you feel improvement !!

-------------------------- <<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>------------

Go to Pierce Manifold link below , order "complete " carb overhaul kit, some extra top section gaskets, and order a How To Weber Book from them. You'll be an expert in no time.

^^^^^^^^^^>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

0o=oo==o0

Trust Me.

CD

76 2002 # 2743711

I what to hear how big your grin was after these changes

Link: one stop WEBER store: PIERCE MANIFOLD

Link: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/mid.html

[Guest Anonymous]

I am going to go out on a limb and suggest that your jetting may not be the source of your problem. What you have described has happened to me on a couple of occasions involving that same carburettor. It is rather simple really, and involves a loose or rotated tube that sits in an auxiliary venturi. If you are familiar with what I am trying to describe, check to see that your's are fixed in the proper direction and stop reading now. If my description/explanation leaves you confused, keep reading and maybe it will make sense.

Looking at your carburettor from the top, with the choke open, you will notice that each carb barrel has an object/obstruction in the direct center of each barrel. I believe this part is labeled by Weber as an "auxiliary venturi." Going from memory, if you look at the dead center of that venturi, you will note a small brass tube sitting horizontally between the middle circle/ring. If your carb is new, the tube should appear to be shiny brass. If the carb has been exposed to the elements, including crankcase fumes, it will appear dark gray and may not be so obvious. These tubes contain a rectangular or slotted orifice that should be pointing downward. If you see either tube with an opening pointing towards the heavens or anywhere other than toward the ground, your engine will exhibit symptoms as you describe. Unfortunately, the Weber is not a Rolex and the tubes within the venturis are not always installed correctly or they have a tendency to rotate on their own. The fix is easy.

As I am sitting here now, I'm not sure if you need to remove the top cover of the carb to access the venturi tubes. The answer to that question probably turns on the size of your digits or instruments. In any event - IF you see one of the tubes is upside down, it is probably a good idea to remove the top of the carb (6 screws plus removal of 1 e/c clip from the choke assembly. The venturi's pull right up (they are secured by gravity). Rotate the tube to the appropriate position with your fingers or with a gentle application of some needlenose pliers. There is no obvious means of crimping the tube so that it remains in place for it is, I believe, a friction fit. But for our purposes, you might consider using a tooth pick and some fuel resistant adhesive on the edge between where the tube meets the body of the venturi. I think I have used Aviation Permatex but for all I know, one drop of crazy glue might do the trick.

Good luck and let us know if and how you cure your problem.

After spouting off,

[Guest Anonymous]

As a post script to the above reply, I have since noticed CD's diagram has an"auxiliary venturi" listed as "no 10." The pic on the right has a vague image of the tube to which I have referred. I am sure there must be a picture of the top of the Weber 32/36, but I am unable to find one at present. You will know it when you see it though.