Andy74tii

OK mission accomplished on that bolt.... it took a 1/4 drive 10mm socket with a short extension that I basically "threaded" between two hoses while pushing the hoses slightly apart. Now I can see I need to build up the upward facing part of the head gasket before I put it back together. I will use some gasket sealer for that build up -- any suggestions? My choices are Permatex 1 (hard setting), Permatex 2 (non hardening, pliable), Permatex Ultra Copper high temp RTV, and Permatex Ultra Grey RTV....

Thanks for the help folks!

Andy74tii

Right Jim. This is my second go-round with this. After the first time, some of the material came off the head gasket, though it did not bend or break (I was pretty careful), so I think this might be the source of my leak. Also, I think there is some sort of technique putting it back on, such that the bolts on the bottom likely need to be tightened up before the horizontal ones to the head. I think I might have done the opposite, hence the leak....

In any event, trying to get this thing off without taking off hoses is really challenging, really it's just that one bolt. This is the first time I've taken off just the upper one, before it's always been the full deal, which involves removing all the hoses, rad, etc. Which I am trying to avoid.....!

Thanks

Andy74tii

First off, count me as a fan of the new FAQ format, well done!

Just a quick question out there --- I would like to redo my upper timing cover gaskets, and I was hopeful i could do just this (not the lower one) without removing any water hoses. There's adequate clearance on all the bolts, except for the lowest one on the driver's side going into the head. There's a couple water hoses in the way there, and it's really tight. Has anyone successfully taken their upper timing cover off without removing hoses, and if so, what's the trick? Super skinny 10mm wrench?

Thanks,

Andy74tii

If I were to do this all over again, I would take the F-Bomb (Paul W) approach. Find an original paint example that's got lots of patina, do no body/paint work, but redo everything mechanical. But that's only good if you're never going to sell the thing. As the previous poster noted, what sells best is a cosmetic restoration.....

Those are terrific photos, and congratulations! May I ask, what are the wheels on the car? That's a very clean look!

Yes, mine is an F.P.A. also..... '74tii

Excellent! I'm going to have to try that road, as I'm practically next door, here in Arvada!

Jim, in answer to your question above, I did use some sealant on the two side gaskets as well. It does not appear to leak from the sides at this point ....

Jim, I did use some of the black rtv in the corners, as described in the forum here. I also used a thin layer on both sides of the head gasket, but I think maybe not enough. It does not appear to leak in the corners, but more toward the front.

The only thing that concerns me in redoing the upper cover is getting more sealant under the head gasket, as this time I will not be removing the lower cover (maybe later, though). Any thoughts on that part? .....

Thanks,

Andy74tii

I recenty did a mild refresh of the tii, powdercoating the intake, valve cover, etc, and in the process replacing most of the gaskets, belts, and so on. Since putting it back together, I have noticed an oil leak that has been difficult to track. I have decided on a strategy, and please provide input if you think I am on the wrong track.

1. Start high, then go low. This leak is deceptive. It sort of looks like an oil pan leak, and it drips from both the front and the back. However, I did not remove the oil pan in the process other than the front few bolts that hold the lower cover. I think the drip is starting from up high. In any event, my strategy is that if I tackle the highest possibility, and the leak is gone, then Im done. If not, I can move lower.

2. Upper timing cover. In the process of the refresh, I removed the timing covers, belts, kfish, etc. I did not remove the head gasket, but in the process, the head gasket lost a bit of material, though it did not bend or crack. My feeling now is that perhaps I did not build up the material on the head gasket with the sealant, AND I may not have first tightened the bolts coming from the top of the cover down into the lower cover.... instead I may have tightened up the bolts going into the head first.... In any event, I think this would be the first item to tackle, as there's no massive process involved as there was in removing the lower cover ( crank pulley, kfish, belts, hold crankshaft in place, etc. etc.). If I can fix it here, it's just a matter of removing the upper cover. If not, .....

3. Move down to lower timing cover.

4. Oil pan

Guidance is welcomed....!

Thanks,

Andy74tii

I had my car repainted with Glasurit around 11 years ago, and it has held up remarkably well. I agree wholeheartedly with the other posters about preparation being the most important factor. However, all else being equal, glasurit was the original paint brand on these vehicles, I don't think you could go wrong with that choice....

hth

Andy74tii

Add me to the list who have used the Rob Torres refurbished part (I also sent my worn one back to him for recycling). Mine was even more worn than Jim's -- much less than half the material was left after the groove. Note that the reason you need to go to Rob for this is that the part CD identified is not this part. This part is NLA as far as I know.

I thought about doing something creative, like JB weld or a sleeve, as has been done here, but I am nowhere near as talented a fabricator as this owner, and likely would have screwed things up!

Andy74tii

My 74 tii has the SR440x starter (the M3 one), but it's pretty similar to the new version of the 71 you have there. I think there are two possibiliites on mine for that wire, one terminal being above the other. On mine, the lower one works, and the upper one does not. Hope that helps

Andy74tii

Hi I am looking for a good piece of beltline for passenger side door, if you have one. I am local, so can come over and pick up.

Thanks,

Andy74tii

Arvada, CO

I agree with the post about trying to find a paint area that has not been exposed. As the owner of a turkis car, I agree that photos don't really work for this color. That's because the color literally changes based on the lighting. It's funny, about 1/2 of the people who see my car say it's green, and the other 1/2 say blue. Again, it depends on the light.

When I had my car repainted, I just used the BMW code you mentioned, and I used Glasurit paint. I have an original turkis car, but it had been repainted poorly once before, and I did not really trust that paintjob as a color match.

HTH

Andy74tii

+1 Turkis. Then again, I'm biased....!

I stumbled across this slightly off topic video related to e24 Alpinas. Great quality and fun to watch!

http://www.petrolicious.com/bmw-alpinas

Enjoy,

Andy74tii

Email sent on sunroof panel, thanks!

Email sent on Eibachs.... thanks

I am old enough to recall that one of the things about the 02 back in the old days was that it was such an unusual looking car -- you just did not see many, even when they were new. To wit, this picture from Rolling Stone back in 1977. I remember seeing this, and thinking, the cool dude from Fleetwood Mac drives one, hence these must be cool....

That'll buff right out!

.... it's a WMB....

Great day in Colorado today and I finally got the tii back on the road, thanks to the excellent suggestions of some FAQers re Mark Hutto. Great guy and highly knowledgeable, he was able to undo the poor tuning of another shop on my KF pump, and this thing is running better than it ever has! I highly recommend him, and turns out he lives about 2 miles from me!

My summer spruceup included powerdercoating the intake, valve cover, plenum, etc., new water pump, hoses, clamps, new KF plastic lines (except #1), etc., etc.

Andy74tii

Thanks Mike and Tim, agree with you. While I had the alt out, I did change the original bushings to some red urethane ones I got from bavauto a few years ago. I will say it was somewhat difficult to get those in there, pretty tight fit!

I will retighten, and see how that works.

Thanks,

Andy74tii

You definitely have a problem there, as you can see from the solder break in the line down towards the bottom of the picture. The good news is that it is fixable. As I recall, Curt would replace that broken solder line with a wire, just soldering from one point to another, connected by the wire. I think there is a thread with a photo on this site somewhere.

hth,

Andy74tii