Andy74tii

NO LONGER FOR SALE> 2 rare Cromodora CD-32 wheels for sale. These were professionally bead blasted then painted with Glasurit Polaris. 13X5.5, offset 18, 4x100 bolt circle. No center caps, no bolts. These are very light at 8.5 lbs, due to being a magnesium alloy. These have not been mounted since refinishing, but some chips on the rim due to stacking and storing. $150 per wheel, plus shipping from Colorado. I am selling these to try to partially finance purchase of 15 inch wheels, likely BBS RM, RA, RS or RZ, so if you have any of these, I'd be interested in a trade.

Many thanks,

Andy74tii

I agree with Bimmerhaus UNLESS it's a tii. They have not a clue in that regard. I brought mine there to get a tune to pass emissions and they had to get the guy who worked at the emissions place (across the street) to show them the 'verboten' screw which they promptly adjusted. I've had trouble with poor gas mileage and running rich ever since.

A few years ago, a shop attempted to tune my tii and they said they altered the mix by fiddling with the so called "verboten" screw on the KF. I have not touched it since then, but am now in process of sorting a few issues out and am thinking I will need to adjust the mixture across the range (as per Macartney book) using that screw. In looking at this, I am trying to figure out how to access the dang thing with a 3mm allen wrench, and it seems nearly impossible. Is there a trick to this that I cannot see? Let me know how you were able to access it.

Thanks!

Andy74tii

This is an esoteric request, but I am tired of the expansion tank in my tii falling off all the time. I need the part identified in this diagram, as #6. It holds the expansion tank in place, and is part 16111105249. Long shot, but anyone got one of these?

thanks,

Andy74tii

William, so glad no one was injured, but sorry to hear about this! I have greatly enjoyed your posts and also your emails to me relating your enthusiastic knowledge about all things tii. I am sure you and your beloved Tip Top will recover. Great news about the baby, in any event!

Sorry, I have searched the archives, but cannot find a comprehensive answer to my question. I have a '74tii with its standard distributor and points, red coil. I would not mind getting rid of the points. Do I just need the pertronix? I often see these mentioned in connection with MSD or Crane ignition systems? What's the advantage of adding those in to the mix? Thanks,

Andy74ttt

I understood a while back that these were NLA, but wondering if they're now back being manufactured? Does anyone know, or have a source? I don't need one right now, but could in the future....

Thanks!

Here's my tii, which is an original Turkis '74. It was repainted in 2000, using glasurit, the original brand used by BMW. I think it is pretty accurate but the color changes in terms of blue to green based on the light. So, it's very difficult to capture.

I was sorry to hear about this. The guy who rebuilt my engine, Mike Perkins in Houston, also recently passed. I think the best memorial or tribute to Curt are all those Silicon Garage radiators in cars like mine. It is like a part of Curt lives on....

After re-reading the thread, and checking the web, I realized that Mike Perkins had actually passed away recently. I was sorry to learn this, he was an exceptionally knowledgeable resource, as well as a super nice guy, and he will be missed.

Here is mine. According to Macartney, this is the rarest tii color. Mine is an original 74 tii in Turkis:

I am pretty familiar with that car as well, as mine was restored essentially side by side at both shops, BMS and Casari's at about the same time. BTW, Bob's car was originally Granatrot, not Malaga. I remember Mike telling me that a lot of the AC was actually based on a Mercedes system. Since mine was finished in 2003, I have put about 60K on it, with minor but typical problems, no big issues. If I were you, I would definitely contact Mike at BMS in Houston. My experience with him (and I spent about $10K or more at that shop on a total rebuild) is that he stands behind his work.

Also, I agree with the comments about driving the car. I have found when I don't drive mine for a while, that's when I have problems. I find the more I drive it, the better it runs. Good luck!

Wow, those are really spectacular. I like the houndstooth material, reminds me of Robert Redford in Downhill Racer driving that 911S. Where did you find the material? Nice!

Thanks very much, although I will unfortunately not be at VatV. Let me know if you have those parts, though, I would be interested. Definitely the fastener is not an ordinary part. Thanks again!

I popped out the mirror and gasket on my trap mirror, as it seemed loose between the mirror head and the arm. The special bolt and spring washer are solid rust. Does anyone know of a source who actually sell those parts without getting the whole mirror? Thanks!

Hi, is there a good source to get the old style flat lens (Hella) H4 headlights with replaceable bulbs? Thanks!

Bill, I need to update my profile, seeing as I am no longer in Houston, but rather Colorado!

andrewgrout@comcast.net

Hi there, I think we went on a group drive in colorado a couple of years ago. You might remember my car, a Turkis 74 tii. It was actually built in December '73.

Hi there, I think we went on a group drive in colorado a couple of years ago. You might remember my car, a Turkis 74 tii. It was actually built in December '73.

OK, I missed that page on the Max site! I was looking in the fuel supply area... Nice find on the Pierce Manifolds site. Looks like you can certainly get the raw materials there for much less... thanks!

Hi folks, it's been awhile since my restoration, and I am thinking about refreshing some of my tii parts. Is there a good source for the tii linkage that is somewhat reasonable in cost? I don't even see it on the Maximillian site, where I spent $10K or so a decade ago....

Does anyone out there know if this is really a direct replacement for the tii? Or does it require modifications in wiring, etc., per the Keith Kreeger method? Let me know if you know. Thanks,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Delphi-FUEL-PUMP-bmw-2002TII-72-74-73-1973-part-auto_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e59faf428QQitemZ130358637608QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Andy74tii

But I occasionally browse ebay and other for sale sites and if I see a tii, I will save the pics (if allowed) and record the serial number. So, I have a small database of tii's that have been for sale.

This one has the same serial number as one I captured on 4/27/2005. It looked pretty good back then, so I would assume it's been pretty well taken care of. I attached a few pics. HTH.

Andy74tii

Thanks for the tips, guys. Keep in mind that this car was a total restoration six years ago, and at that time, while engine was out of car, the clutch was new, transmission rebuilt, engine rebuilt, pedal box rebuilt, etc. In looking at the pedal box, it still seems pretty pristine. I even had all the hardware yellow zinc replated, and it looks good. It looks like all is well under there, but I will take a look at the clutch fork, but not yet ready to take the tranny out! Thanks again!

Hi, I recently replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders, then bled it. For a few weeks, the clutch has worked fine. Yesterday, however, the clutch pedal started to get stiff again. I just tried bleeding it again, but no change in the pedal. What is the problem when you have a clutch pedal that takes a lot of effort to depress? When I bleed, fluid does come out, which indicates there is hydraulic pressure in the system .... ?

Thanks,

Andy74tii