Andy74tii

Esty and emmodg, I can't argue with you. I too have a problem with someone who won't list prices; you're right that makes it more like an auction than a classified. All I was saying was that he does actually have the stuff.

I have personally met Bryce and been to his place here in Denver, and can tell you he does have all these parts. I don't think he's a scammer or spammer. On the other hand, I would agree that it is annoying that he doesn't put prices on his stuff. I think he is trying to get the best prices he can, using this technique. On the old faq, wasn't it required to post a price? Has that changed?

Andy74tii

Here's mine.  5.5 x 13 Cromodoras, with Bavauto springs and one dot spacers in back, using Bilstein Sports...

No, I took the compressors off before unscrewing it out the opening.....

I finally got around to putting my new bavauto springs on the front, so at least people will stop asking if i have a dead body in the trunk (I had the rear ones on)

I will confess I have a fear of the three special strut bolts, based on the fact that I broke one off last time I had the struts out, and it took me weeks to figure out out to get the broken parts out. So I was willing to do practically anything to avoid touching those three bolts, and thus had to figure out how to get the springs out and new ones on with the strut in place.

I will say this -- I have seen a few posts where folks have indicated they just compressed springs, undid the 3 top bolts, undid the swaybar links, and voila, the strut was able to swing out under the fender. For me, this did not even come close -- I still needed a good 3 inches clearance, and I even undid the tie rod ends. I did not go so far as to remove the angled bars (not sure what those are called); maybe that is the trick?

In any event, I did find a way to get the springs off through a unique technique I will call the "corkscrew." Essentially, I pulled off the strut bearings, and all the spacers and washers as well as the top of the strut housing, all underneath the fender. Then, I basically "unscrewed" the spring up through the opening in the top of the fender where the strut bearing had been. I then "screwed" the new spring down through that same opening. I then mounted the strut bearing to the fender, and pushed the strut down as far as I could and guided the top of the strut up through the bushing in the bearing.

I don't really recommend this approach, but if you really do not want to take out the struts, like me, and you cannot find any way of swinging the strut out under the fender (also like me), this might work for you.....

Andy74tii

I say definitely keep as is.... I remember when I was first looking for an 02 in '77-'78, I drove one exactly like this, polaris with blue. Had about 20K on the clock, and ran like a dream, probably still the nicest 02 I've ever driven, mainly because it was practically new. But I remember the guy wanted something like $6,200 for it, which as I recall was more than it had sold for new. Some of you might remember when the 320i first came out, the late 02s became a very hot commodity, and I remember ones with very low mileage were selling for more than the 320is.

Nice car!

Andy74tii

The thing I like about turkis is that I can respond to this post, yes, it is a green car. I can also respond to another post about blue cars. Yes it's also a blue car. In the two pictures I posted, in one it looks more green, in the other more blue. Depends on the light....

Mike, yes it's an early 74, number 675 (Dec. '73)...

Mike, now you have seen a squarelight Turkis (original); this is my '74 tii.

So, here are a couple of pics I took tonight with the Bavauto red springs in the back only (fronts are still stock) with Bilstein Sports.  This is with the aluminum spacers in the back.  I really like the ride a lot with the bavauto/sport combination.  The softness I've heard with the bavautos seems to be moderated somewhat by the stiffer sports shocks....

Anyway, what do you think of the stance in back?  To me, it's about right, maybe just a tad low, but it feels great driving... I'll change out the fronts shortly....

Thanks,

Andy74tii

PS, I would really like to see the info about the adjustable spacers in back!

Thanks skip, i did it just now and it looks a lot better!

I recently put some new springs on and I'm a little lower than I would like in back. I have one dot rubber spacers in the back, and will probably get some 3 dots. Before I do that, though, I wonder if anyone has ever tried to use the aluminum spacers from the front struts (usually discarded) in the rear, above the rubber spacers? Seems like that could work, and would give another option. Has anyone tried this with success? Anything to watch out for?

Thanks

Andy74tii

I'm 55 and my 74tii is turning 40 this December.... this is my 3rd 02, starting in 1980 with a 74.....

thanks CD and all!

Quick question -- when changing rear springs, is it required to disconnect the cv joint at the wheel? The last time I did this, the car was completely apart anyway, so it was not a question. Is there any harm to changing springs out if you do not take out the CV joint?

Thanks,

Andy74tii

Me too. Scammers.... grrrrr....

As long as you're following the procedure of letting the pump prime for 10 secs or so prior to engaging the starter, you're good. Sometimes they do take that long, these tiis. However, I will say that when I went to the M3 starter from the original, starting the tii became infinitely more satisfying. It spins faster, and seems to have shortened the starting time considerably. I have to say that this was possibly the best upgrade money I ever spent on this car.

Thanks,

Andy74tii

I am a huge fan of anybody who gets into the business of helping to keep our cars on the road.... thank you!!

Andy74tii

Guys, thanks for the suggestions. I've checked with World (Upholstery) and GAHH now, and they do sell the correct vinyl (perforated), but do not do the heat sealed seams unless you purchase a full set of the front seat covers, which I do not want to do. I am checking with SMS, and will update when I hear from them. So, unless I want to completely redo the fronts, my only option would appear to be finding a decent used rear seat cover, and using that material, as has been suggested in the past. My only concern about that is that I assume using 40 year old material will likely result in the same situation (torn) relatively quickly!

Thanks again,

Andy74tii

Hi, quick question. On my cold start wiring harness, I no longer have the plug to the thermotime switch. Instead I have individual connections (one is black/white, one is brown/black). The manual says the brown/black goes to the W terminal on the switch, but I cannot identify which terminal that is. Can anyone tell me which terminal the brown/black wire goes to -- driver side terminal or passenger side?

Thanks,

Andy74tii

So, the seat cushion material on my 74tii passenger side has finally split. Many years ago, I got material from World Upholstery to match (heat sealed pleats) and had my upholsterer do the sewing. Unfortunately, according to the person I talked with at World today, they no longer do that, they only want to sell me the full driver and passenger seat kit. Is there another source who sells the heat sealed material?

Thanks,

Andy74tii

WTB sport springs, either Eibach, H&R, IE or other aftermarket springs. Let me know what you have and price.

Thanks!

Andy74tii

wow, that is just about the coolest thing I have seen on this forum in a very long time! congrats both on the gift and also the excellent taste of your wife!

So, getting my tii up and running for summer, it seemed like it was running way rich and flooding out. I kept having to take out the plugs and clean them, then it would run ok for awhile, then bog out, etc.....

So while i'm looking at this, I start looking at the linkage, and I see the 85mm link is bouncing around. I replaced this piece over the winter, and somehow it had gotten loose and you could see the tightening nuts bouncing around. I checked it on my 85mm gauge (purchased from William on this board, thanks!) and it was pretty close, just loose. Tightened it up and car seems to be running fine now.... except the warmed up idle is just a tad high.

My question is -- should I go through the synch procedure again, and reset the idle screw and enrichment screw in the tuna can? when I last did this, the link was definitely at 85mm.

Thanks,

Andy74tii

Nice! I would like to see them once on your car as well. They look great!