lunarkingdom

My glass reads: DURO-GLAS-1F LIZ.SEKURIT ^^^ D 291 **************** DOT28 M101 AS2 SOLID TEMPERED TF M101 is specifically what I was looking for, it is clear glass, DOT28 means it was manufactured from 1973 or later, my car is a 1974 and it also has TF so to add to visionary's notes TF does not stand for a single date. I would say that there are no differenced between my 1974 glass and his 1976 glass so possibly in 1973 when they went from "DOTXXX" to "DOTXX" they made the same clear glass for the rest of their production years. Depending on "when" in 1973 they made the change, one could also speculate that it is possible that all square taillight cars came with M101 clear glass. It would be interesting for others to chime in on what original glass their cars have.

Thank you Visionaut, I quoted the information from your linked thread below: Liz. Sekurit means Licensed Sekurit glass. Sekurit was the original trade name Saint-Gobain applied to their invention of laminated auto glass in 1929. The manufacturer of this rear window was Vereinigte Glaswerke (VEGLA), a German subsidiary of Saint-Gobain. It eventually became the current Sekurit Saint-Govain Germany. Note there's no BMW Roundel at the top of this bug. This lack of the BMW logo in the bug normally indicates it’s replacement glass. Duro-Glas was a trademark used for VEGLA’s licensed Sekurit laminated and tempered auto glass. Delodur was another. 1F is the specific version used. DOT28 - All the Auto Glass Mfgrs are assigned a registration number by NHTSA. 28 was the number for Vereinigte Glaswerke (VEGLA) of Porz, Federal Republic of Germany. The required placement of DOTXXX in the window bug went into effect April 1973. M1010 - M numbers are manufacturer glass model types (but NOT the part number. Two different parts can have the same M number.) 101 is the manufacturer model type for this rear window glass. The last trailing digit in an M number indicates if the glass is tinted or not. 0 indicates its clear, 1 would indicate it's green tinted, 2 that it's bronze-tinted, and 3 would be blue-tinted). FWIW, all my 76ers side glass is BMW Duro-Glas original green-tinted - and they all carry M101 (10 is the type ID, and 1 shows its green-tint). AS2 - Indicates this glass has at least 70% light transmission but it doesn't pass all the impact tests like AS1, which is required for use in windshields. AS3 designates the glass passes less than 70%. All my tinted side glass is also AS2. TF - ? I think this might be a Date Code, but I'm not 100%. All my BMW Duro-Glas side glass also carry the code TF, as does this rear window. So maybe TF = May (F) 1976 (T) production? Maybe not, but If so, then even though this rear window doesn't have the BMW logo in the bug, perhaps it's also original? My glass reads: DURO-GLAS-1F LIZ.SEKURIT ^^^ D 291 **************** DOT28 M101 AS2 SOLID TEMPERED TF M101 is specifically what I was looking for, it is clear glass, DOT28 means it was manufactured from 1973 or later, my car is a 1974 and it also has TF so to add to visionary's notes TF does not stand for a single date. I would say that there are no differenced between my 1974 glass and his 1976 glass so possibly in 1973 when they went from "DOTXXX" to "DOTXX" they made the same clear glass for the rest of their production years. Depending on "when" in 1973 they made the change, one could also speculate that it is possible that all square taillight cars came with M101 clear glass. It would be interesting for others to chime in on what original glass their cars have. I will be posting this same post in Visionaut's linked thread to hopefully continue the discussion over there. Thanks again Visionaut!

Who sells new ones?

I have a whole box of the T Bolt style clamps on the boat leftover from me ordering to many and a few sizes that were wrong, there are probably 30-40 of them in there. I should have most if not all of them already. Thanks for the reminder though!

Pretty sure radiator comes straight out on bottom. Blue looks great, just ask my dual vortec's in my boat how they like blue silicone hoses after I did a top end rebuild on both of them: 410372514_6789590191110451_9004430152922070757_n.mp4

Engine bay, block, subframe and possibly valve cover are going to be black so I would not mind the contrast and looking for longevity on a budget. Silicone lasts longer and the IE kits are 100 bucks less which is why I am looking at them. I just spent 1300 on breaks, break lines, drums, rebuild parts for the front subframe and a bunch of undercoating and refinishing supplies and the wallet is running dry.

If you have a car port with a solid beam you can get away with a decent lever hoist puller, or just jack the car up high and use jack stands then drop the sub frame with a couple jacks.

Hey guys, I am trying to order a complete set of coolant hoses and I have a 1970 2.0l motor with a 121 head. Ireland Engineering has a couple sweet looking kits but I am unsure which one I need for the intake manifold I have. Pictures of the engine I am going to use below: Silicone Coolant Hose Kit – 2002 Early (1 Barrel Carb) – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each Kit Silicone Coolant Hose Kit – 2002 Late (2 Barrel Carb) – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each Kit

double disregard

If you have a newer iPhone with the 3 picture lenses you can 3d scan it yourself. Lots of info out there to be googled I only know about it because my friend at work did this recently and it worked pretty good. I think you still have to model the scan by hand but it is a great template and makes it super easy. If you do make a decent one please share it on thingiverse so everyone with a 3d printer can make them.

I know kind of lame question, I am 90% sure they are clear but I have nothing to compare them to. Before I make a WTB post I need to know what I have.

I posted that I already ripped them out as they were damaged so I missed the opportunity to do this.

If the information Mark gave me a couple of posts ago is true and I can still use my cam pump to move fuel from the gas tank to the engine then if there was ever a break in the fuel line behind that pump and the pump kept pumping it would evacuate the line instead of evacuating the tank of gas like a rear mounted pump would. I am speculating and would love to hear if I am incorrect for sure. I do not want an unsafe car but I also would like to avoid having to run the blue and clear plastic lines again if possible. If the metal line ends up being rusty or damaged I would rather put a new metal line as most if not all of my classic cars had a single hard line to the motor from the tank.

Make sure it actually dries or you will have a big mess to clean up, I actually bought a quart of some seam sealer on amazon for like 50 bucks, read up on it before I used it and could not use it. The stuff I got at Napa was 50 bucks and dried very fast. Seam sealer is great until it isn't, lol check before you apply.

When your fronts come in please share how it goes, once I know the lseat ones can be fit I will get mine ordered soon thereafter. I really like the idea of leather as they can be shrunk in places that are loose and the look on those back seats are amazing nice job! Which ones did you actually get? I am guessing the "1968-1976 BMW E10 2002 Custom Real Leather Seat Covers" front and rear, could you clarify?

Ahhhh! I currently have a fuel pump bolted to the head, your post helps me figure out that I need a pump in the rear. I think I might have forgot to mention previously that when I replaced the floor pans I ripped out the blue and clear plastic lines as they were both broken in a few places anyway. Now I need to source a rear fuel pump (with pressure sensing turn off?) so I wonder what is the best one to use? I also need to source a plate/gasket/bolts to cap off the hole in my head for the old cam driven pump. I think I read recently that an e-30 in tank fuel pump is the way to go but my memory is fuzzy.

Les, I crashed on my electric scooter 2 days ago and am stuck in a chair for a couple weeks so my skin is a little thinner than usual (literally) plus a couple fractured bones and for that I truly apologize. You asked: "and your reason for doing this is....................? The "........................" is usually alluring to the fact that whatever the answer is you do not approve. If you would have worded it differently something like: "I am curious, what is your reason for doing this?" I would have had a kind response no matter how I was feeling or how thick my skin is. Would it not have been a lot nicer of an exchange if intention was more clear for the both of us? I will try harder in the future to negate this happening again. What would be the proper response: A. Will you................? B. Will you? Best regards, Rick

This year car 1974 is exempt from smog in my state so if I wanted to I could use the hard line for main fuel to the carb if I wanted to? I will be deleting the carbon canister and or the vapor canister if they are still there.

I have a clear and light blue set of fuel lines running along the passenger side inner rocker panel of my 1974 2002 and I also seem to have a metal line going under the bottom of the drivers side. My question is which are for what, assuming the white and blue plastic lines are the send and return for fuel from the tank and might go through a plastic tank under the place where speakers go in the back window. Is the extra hard line on the drivers side already plumbed for fuel delivery? I had a scooter accident and can not check it at the moment but I did rip out the plastic lines they were in the way of repairing my floorboard so I am wondering if I need to replace them or if I can get away with the one hard line. Thanks!

I suggest you go buy a couple packs of 10 of the butt weld clamps from harbor freight they are the cats meow for joining all of that flat metal. Pick up some self tapping screws and some washers as the tops of the screws lack threads and without the washers will not make a tight fit. I bought their cheapest 30 dollar sand blaster and a 35 dollar half gallon of 80 grit glass beads and it was enough for the entire job, I hit all the edges where I would be overlapping and sealing (floorpan to trans tunnel) so it would not come back. I seriously think the "NAPA 4200 brushable seam sealer" was the cheapest and best seam seal solution, get 10 cheap brushes to apply it and slop it around fast, slow it just turns into boulders and looks crappy I had to get buck wild Picasso with it lol. Yours is worse than mine but if you go back and look at the first panel I replaced (worst one first) top of page 1 which was my passenger front you are very close to what I had to do minus the rocker partial replacement. The MVP panels had enough extra on the edges that while it looks a little funny it allowed me to not have to fabricate any firewall or trans tunnel pieces. Post a topic on it I will follow for sure, good luck it will turn out great all it needs is your extra time and attention. Good luck!!

These are more affordable than the other offerings I have seen and in leather too! Could you share pictures here as well as follow up when you get the fronts? I have a 74 and I need to redo all 4 seats including hand making all of the padding as mine is toast. I have been watching upholstery videos on how to use burlap to skin the tops then how to glue and sculpt the foam on YouTube but these seat covers are the 3rd part I have been waiting to see as well as find an affordable option like you have shared here, thank you very much for that! Look forward to seeing more from you! 😉

I suggest trying smaller wire (without rosin core, that's only for no gas AFAIK) and tip to match then just turn to minimum heat setting and tune your speed so it is hot but not blowing out the metal. You might be surprised how controlled your welds into thin sheet metal can be by doing that.

I found with my old Lincoln 100 from 20 years ago and rosin core wire from 2007 lol if I set it at A heat and 2 wire speed it handles 2002 sheet metal pretty darn good as long as you minimize your gaps. I have never used a TIG before but 25 years ago all they ever used were Lincoln MIG'S with gas for sheet metal so what I have is cheap and good enough for my small needs. Like you guys said, grinding is still in my future lol just have to be humble and "grind" through it. 😉

I have a center piece from a pre 74 car ready for me to splice in, you are correct.

I found an offer I could not refuse, a very nice 1974 body with major floor pan issues for a low price. I just finished the floor pan issues (see my other thread in this section of the forum) and want to proceed with building a 1969 style BMW 2002 on a budget with what I have.