jackiesilva
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Posts posted by jackiesilva
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thanks for your replies. so, it sounds like there is really no way to salvage the head. if I got a replacement, how would I go about inspecting a used head (except of course obvious damage) to try to avoid other issues down the road? What kind of issues would a used head have that might not be obvious to an untrained eye? Would I need to take it somewhere to have it inspected before I buy? Should I at least look into salvaging what I have now or is it beyond repair? I can try to post better pics.
@2002iii what condition are your cylinder heads in? I'm close to Oakland.
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I finally pulled the head off my 1975 02 to further investigate low compression on piston #2 related to thread from January:
I found a sizable chunk broken off of #2 and #3 and also head damage probably from the pieces that broke off. Just wondering what my options are. Pretty sure I'll need to replace the pistons and rebore the cylinders and repair the head damage. Can anyone offer any advice as to what my options are other than replacing the pistons? Is Ireland Engineering a good brand for new pistons? Know of a good machine shop in SF Bay Area, preferably East bay, but I'll travel to South Bay for good work.
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Thanks for your replies. Eventually, I'd like to really clean up the engine bay and all the wiring (among other things). I went to the 2002 gathering in Los Gatos last weekend and some of those 2002s were in such good shape and the engine bays were just immaculate. I'm hoping someday mine will look (and sound and drive) half as good as they do.
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hmm that's interesting. I'm glad it solved your problem.
I guess another question I have is: does a valve gasket replacement require some kind of sealant? or maybe if's it's rubber, then sealant isn't necessary? I know this is different, but when replacing the oil pan gasket, we did use sealant, but yeah, cork.
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55 minutes ago, visionaut said:
Your shoulder nuts should work fine mechanically. But if aesthetics or originality matter to you, you can replace them with cap nuts . Either the kind from the hardware store with a washer or the BMW ones.
I like the cap nuts -- definitely seem to have a much cleaner look. Thanks.
55 minutes ago, visionaut said:Get the best valve cover gasket you can get. More than just sealing, you’ll be taking the cover off & on when adjusting valves, so a durable one aids reuse.
When I originally posted here, I was wondering about quality/brand name of VC gaskets. 2002iii recommended victor reinz. would you agree?
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Also, I've seen the m10 with valve cover acorn nuts, but mine came with the non-capped type. Do I need to replace them with the acorn?
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25 minutes ago, 2002iii said:
I'd go victor Reinz, the BMW one is over priced and probably not any better. A lot of the BMW parts are not as good quality as they used to be.
Thanks!
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Hi -
I'm replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 1975 '02 and I've found a few on pelicanparts ranging from $7.25 - $20. The most expensive was the $20 BMW gasket. The Victor Reinz and MTC gaskets were around $10. Any reason to pick one over the other? Is the genuine BMW gasket preferred?
Thanks,
J
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4 hours ago, jackiesilva said:
Edit: I think I ran the test incorrectly. didn't remove all spark plugs and didn't test with throttle wide open. Will retest and post numbers. Still think #2 is dead.
Ok better results for the retest.
Cyl 1 120
Cyl 2 35
Cyl 3 93
Cyl 4 135
#2 has some compression now so that seems promising. Will still do leak down test and inspect with borescope
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55 minutes ago, jackiesilva said:
Ok, I did a compression test yesterday and Im pretty bummed out. Tested before/after I seafoam treatment. The second numbers are probably most accurate since the engine was warmed up by then, but just wanted to see the difference.
Here are the horrible numbers:
Cyl 1 - 70/70
Cyl 2 - 0/0
Cyl 3 - 78/70
Cyl 4 - 100/90
I'm told that #2 could need a piston ring replacement, but the others are very low, as well. I was also told to perform a leak down test and get a borescope to inspect cylinders.
Anyone have any advice? Since this is a project car, and there is no urgency to repair (if it's even worth it?), I'd like to see if I can do the work myself. But, at what point is an engine replacement in order?
Thanks
-Jackie
Edit: I think I ran the test incorrectly. didn't remove all spark plugs and didn't test with throttle wide open. Will retest and post numbers. Still think #2 is dead.
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Ok, I did a compression test yesterday and Im pretty bummed out. Tested before/after I seafoam treatment. The second numbers are probably most accurate since the engine was warmed up by then, but just wanted to see the difference.
Here are the horrible numbers:
Cyl 1 - 70/70
Cyl 2 - 0/0
Cyl 3 - 78/70
Cyl 4 - 100/90
I'm told that #2 could need a piston ring replacement, but the others are very low, as well. I was also told to perform a leak down test and get a borescope to inspect cylinders.
Anyone have any advice? Since this is a project car, and there is no urgency to repair (if it's even worth it?), I'd like to see if I can do the work myself. But, at what point is an engine replacement in order?
Thanks
-Jackie
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11 hours ago, Son of Marty said:
Before you make up your mind on a carb or carbs we need to figure out what's been done to your engine I see no reason to assume someone just strapped duels on it and called it good, it is already fitted with a non vacuum distributor. I for one would like to see a picture of the cam and rockers.
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31 minutes ago, Jimmy said:
Cam, pistons, head work, distributor re-curve, dyno tuning would all be needed for dual carbs to work better than stock on a 1975 engine. And that doesn't even get into choke(s), air filtration, etc. that would be needed to make it comparable from a drivability/longevity standpoint.
OP, why do you think you want dual carbs?
haha yeah, I didn't necessarily want them -- they just came with the car.
It sounds like going to a single carb would be best, but as @2002iii pointed out, I need to research my options. I don't even know what converting from dual to single would entail.
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Question: In the LIGHT READING article, #93 says, "You don't want dual carburetors on your street car, trust me." Can anyone elaborate on why this would be undesirable in specifically a street car?
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29 minutes ago, dang said:
While dealing with the starter make sure the positive cable doesn't show signs of corrosion (swelling). High resistance in the wires can sometimes make a starter seem bad but it's an easy fix since you're already in there.
It turns out that the solenoid is in bad shape. It's cracked and is actually missing a piece. so, I guess I'm adding that to the to-do list. So much work ahead of me!
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Thanks again for your comments. I'm making a list of things that need attention, including the suggestions from you. I thought I saw a checklist on this site for new 2002 owners and the initial tasks to get it tuned up a bit. Does anyone know of such a list?
Of course, coming up with a name for her will be on that list, too! lol
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Newbie mistake! Found the problem with the starter -- it was a bit of a loose connection. Oh well, it wasn't all in vain--I learned something.?
@Jimmy Thanks for letting me know and for the possible cause of the starter (btw, mine's a manual). I saw the missing connection at the reservoir and couldn't figure out what was missing. Now I know! Adding that to the list!
@2002iii I'm still contemplating replacing the starter, especially something smaller. But for now, I'll keep the Bosch 731, even though it weighs a ton!
@Benjamin A.R. That's really cool, thanks. I'll keep your offer in mind if/when I decide to switch out the starter, if it's still available.
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I’m located in the SF East Bay Area. So far I’ve only replaced the oil/filter/oil pan gasket. When I tried to start it up, there was nothing. No clicks just the engine lights came on and the fan. Soo I think the problem is the starter, which has been removed and we’re assessing it now. Had to remove one of the carburetors to get to it (see pics, hopefully they come they ok). Using the Haynes manual.
thanks for your replies!
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Hi!
I’m a first-time BMW 2002 owner ( I just bought mine back in December) and I’m in love! Mine is a 1975 and she has some work to get her in good running condition, but I’m hoping to do the work myself (well, as much as possible). This forum seems really informative with lots of folks willing to help and very passionate about our 2002s!
Wish me luck.
Cheers!
Jackie
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Piston and head damage
in BMW 2002 and other '02
Posted
@Preyupy what do ya think? Should I replace the head or can it be repaired at a reasonable cost? Or just find a used one and hope for the best? I can post additional pics of better quality if needed. TIA.
-Jackie