Dionk

Happy new year! I closed out 2019 with a flurry of effort to get Derby ready for Vintage! I’ll be registering later today. With the holiday break upon us I decided to put in some extra hours in the garage. I enlisted help from my brother and we made some major progress. We picked up the engine and lowered it onto the front subframe. After securing the engine mounts and attracting the transmission and we rolled the assembly over to the front of the car on a moving dolly. One of the neat things that I did was to put a 2x6 on top of the rear jack stands perpendicular to length of the car and at the fulcrum point (imagine a teeter totter). This allowed me to easily lift the front of the car and roll the engine underneath for install. I was worried about it sliding off the back, but we were lucky this didn’t happen. I would urge caution if you try this. We place some boxes of papers at the rear of the car to soften the blow if it did slide back. Once we had the engine under the car, we quickly realized that we were not going to get it installed with the the stahl header attached. So the bolts came off the header. After that the engine went in with little effort and we secured it with new bolts. We placed a jack stand under the transmission. I will have to wait to get the rear subframe and LSD installed so I can align the drive shaft and determine where to place the transmission mounts. Hurray!!!!!!!! Seeing the rebuilt upgraded engine in the engine bay just makes me smile. So a bit less exciting but another major milestone was that were able to pull the rebuilt rear subframe off my parts car. Place it on a dolly and roll it into the garage. Then we installed the rear subframe from Derby onto the parts car. The rear subframe is covered in oil, grease and road grime. I did replace the bushings in 2016 and I’m contemplating whether it needs new bushings now while it’s out of the car. I only drove 5000 miles on them so I’m thinking no....more on the rear subframe in another blog post. So I did forget two things that caused me some concern. First I forgot to attach the reverse light wires and second I don’t think I banged out enough space for the getrag 245 slave cylinder (it’s very close to the tunnel wall if not slightly touching. All easily remedied by dropping the subframe/engine/trans again. However I don’t really want to do that. I can actually see and reach the connection for the reverse light wires from the engine bay. So that will likely be an easy fix. Now what to do about not having banged out enough space for the slave cylinder...hmm. Also I’m super glad I made the master clutch connection to slave cylinder before installation. I don’t think this would be possible with the transmission installed. A special thanks to my brother, his drive, help and guidance was critical. Enjoy the pictures.

WTB. Good quality Three piece dash or just the top of a three piece dash. Thanks.

ordered some parts from W&N Germany - reinforce springs, polished strut bar and a bunch of misc. shipping was lighting quick. All items received within 4 days. So I’ve been getting ready for the big day - engine install. To that end - the following projects were completed / or in progress depending on the definition of complete. - Rebuilt Pedal / installed (a helper makes this easier) - installed brake booster bracket. - installed brake light switch - installed e21 master cylinder - installed fire wall protection pad - installed headlights - started running brake lines

See picture - I think this is where the wires were connected. This junction has been removed.

Thanks Ed. Would anyone know why it would be bundled with the brake switch wires with electrical tape. I don't see the BR in the diagram releated to the Brake light switch. Its BR-SW (brown with a black stripe) looking for it now in the diagram.. Seems it may be the wire from the flasher indicator/parking light/ and washer switch to the delay relay.

Yes - it did only have a single remote booster...I found them. trying to figure out the one brown wire still though.

My own Mystery solved. I found my owners handbook. Wiring diagrams for both the 1600 and the 2002 are included. GN-RT on the 68 1600 is green and red leaving the brake switch and it goes back to each brake light. SW-GN black and green comes into the switch from the fuse. I did a continuity test to verify. (All good). It seems the difference from the 71 2002 and the 68 1600 that the 68 1600 wires seem to have have multiple connections (jumpers) while the 71 simply has the two wires (one into the switch and one out). i include a picture of the 68 1600 wires which are also bundled with a brown wire (not sure about that one yet). So I’m all set...I think. ?

Thanks - I definitely see the location for mounting the switch on the pedestal. See picture. I also included a picture of the switch on my parts car. The wires run into that covered bundle that goes into the fire wall. Once I install the the switch on the pedestal where do I connect the two wires? this is the part that’s perplexing me.

Greetings everyone I’m installing a pedal box, brake booster and pedestal from a later model 2002 on my 1968 1600 (see picture). can anyone offer some advice on how to wire the brake light switch. I’m looking through my old pictures to see if I can find where the switch was originally located. im also contemplating dissecting the wiring harnesses on my 71 2002 parts car to figure this out.

Bought the adjustable toothed alternator bracket upgrade that’s been for sale on the faq. Installed in 5 minutes - super easy and seems to work with no problems. IMG_0008.MOV

I have a saddle brown rear seat top and bottom. Pm for pics and price.

I have a way to go to finalize this project and my available budget is only made to look large when compared to my time to work on the car. That said it sure would be nice to Vintage this year to show off this chrome.

Indeed.

Hi all if you were wondering about the price of chrome here is a data point for you. I wanted to have my original 1968 bumpers that were dented and rusty on the inside re chromed. I looked at buying the aftermarket Bumper kits, but decided this was something I wanted to keep original. So I had shop in Fredericksburg Virginia do the front and rear bumpers as well as the taillight round bezels. The results are excellent - I’ll send pictures of them mounted on the car in a few weeks. Need to buy some new hardware. Attached are a few pictures and a picture of what I paid. without being able to see the original shape (dents and scratches) it’s hard to say if I over paid, but the price was higher then I would have liked and definitely more than aftermarket. Now I need new belt line trim - sigh...