evil02
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Everything posted by evil02
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Mark, Are your front suspension arms much longer than stock? I see the wheels are pretty deep. Take a look at the picture I attached. If you look at this front wheel, you will see the centerlock but also, look at the offset. The hub is way outboard. ps - If you know anything about the car I attached, can you tell me about it? I can't find any info on it and I am dying to know more.
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Those are real nice clean parts for sure. I am working with replica's that were not so straight. They are pretty good now and I should pull molds as you did but, I'm probably not going to race this car and likely sell it some day to build another so, I won't probably do it.
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For sure, the black looks awesome. The main trouble I found with building old race cars and even new ones is, all the fiberglass or carbon parts are extremely difficult to make straight and look as good as a factory steel part. Once painted black, you really see the shadows and imperfections. You need to take your bodywork to the nth degree, almost show quality, for the car to really look good. I personally think all track cars should be white. For some dumb reason, I love the look of a nice clean track car. You can easily find leaks and cracks in the white paint and it stays cooler in the sun too.
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I think yours look pretty good. It is difficult to make these custom pieces for sure. I tried my hand at making them in a 3D model. It was hard because I had to make a drawing of the car and then make the lower section. I was hoping to send it to a mold shop I worked with and have them carve it out of foam. I was making a longer piece though. It goes from the back of the front fender to the front of the back fender (like yours).
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Let me know if you are interested in making 2 sets, I will be happy to cover costs, plus some! Dave
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Mark, Is that little aero rocker panel piece in front of the rear wheel separate or molded into the rear fender? Dave
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For sure. As I said my p-car has had many hands and years on it and it was pretty bad. It's all modern and nice now. I am hoping my 2002 turbo will be just as nice and safe.
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Ah, much nicer looking! That is a lot less scary, lol. Race cars need a lot of forward thinking while building. I have an old p-car that has had many "new additions" to it by many people. It is comical to see all the after thought cuts and welds. Once you get yours all sorted, it will be a very cool car. I can't wait to see it done! (and hear it, vids please )
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Mark, Thanks for the info. I am building a 54mm inverted strut right now. It is cool to see what they raced on years ago. Scary actually, lol..
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Mark, How much more(over stock) is that spindle raised? That looks like a massive drop spindle! Awesome! Dave
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Thank you everyone, I found one!
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Why wouldn't you duplicate what you have. There isn't really any new technology out there for a carburated engine that is going to be that much better than what you have. You can find a much cheaper stroker crank for sure. I think the EVO cranks are about $2500(or less) and then whatever compression pistons you want for your fuel type, headwork and a cam, done..
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I agree. I have seen people just warp large things with that thick brown paper and they seem to take it.
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Sounds good, I will let you know!! I would think for shipping, leave it all exposed and just stick a label on it? It isn't anything that is going to break or damaged if wet exposed or dropped. That's a guess though, lol..
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Hello, I need a decent front subframe. I know shipping will be a killer so, hopefully someone near Chicago would be great!
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Samsonas seems to be real good. The torque rating on a lot of these boxes are very low. Running a turbo, I'm forced to look elsewhere. I can't wait to hear how yours goes!
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for printing, it is what fits in the window. If you make one large object, as long as it is not complicated, the costs are so close to machining, I would rather machine. Should you have gotten lucky and built it correctly, your prototype becomes a finished, usable part. I only print very complicated parts that cost a lot less than machining or as you suggested.
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Your method is sound and will get you in the ballpark. I have researched this and read many a white paper on it (mainly for turbocharged motors though). I worked with a big 3 engineer that built all the drag racing intakes and they armed him with the most powerful computer and a programs that were worth more then I will make in my lifetime. They had data from decades to build from and modeled endless intakes(and this was his only job). They were all 100% specific to what they wanted from the engine. It was a complete package. They would take up to 10 models to the dyno and test. My only point is that, there is no magic bullet. One intake does not do it all. Even with powerful computers and tons of computations, they still have to test. A race motor is built for a specific range so, much easier but, still a enough of variables to make you test.
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You can probably find off the shelf spacers. Try Jenvy. If it is a custom bolt pattern and spacer you want, let me know. If you give the dimensions you want, I can draw them for you and you can have them machined or printed. I find printing almost as expensive as machining. The only benefit to printing is that you can print very complex shapes where in machining, you would need a 5 axis machine or possible cast it if the holes are too deep and curvy.
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I think we are saying the same thing but, I am only saying, how far do you want to take this? It is all very possible but, it takes time and money. You can get to 95% there and maybe that is all you need or want. There is no need to run this motor at 10/10ths. Not unless you have endless money and have spares of everything. Whatever parts he has is a good starting point. You can model it from there and see whats doing and adjust from there. That being said, the dyno and track don't lie. experimenting with spacers isn't going to make or break the engine as long as your monitoring air/fuel and knock. For the record, I don't trust ANY "tuner" on the internet. Good ones don't need to advertise. I am also not insisting my opinion is gospel or soliciting work. I'm just here for fun. I design and test for a living and none of it is sold.
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It is going to well worth it! Let us know how it goes!
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engine and drivetrain Mating Getrag 260/262/265 to M10 block
evil02 replied to a topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
Uh, I'll sell you mine for $1000! But seriously, they are out there. Keep searching. It took me about 3 months to sell two of them at $500 a piece. Although, I will keep you in mind. I am trying to fit a 420 to my m10. If I do, the 265 is up for sale. -
Very, very nice!!! I am looking at the same thing but, not sure I can justify the price (for me, i'm sure the trans in awesome).
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This is my opinion based on being a great couch racer and not a professor of engine tuning. That being said, I have made many intake manifolds for a few particular engines and i developed a good baseline of what worked and didn't work. I modeled them in Solidworks and used their CFD program. That being said, it is a limited program and my brain is even more limited Unless you are running at a pro level, you don't need to worry about being exact. I'm sure they did the math to actually tuned for the proper resonance but, I am also certain, they experimented with spacers as things change from math on paper to real world situations. The engine builders will fine tune the engine with different length stacks (and spacers) to create whatever torque characteristics they needed for whatever given track they were racing. They probably had an endless set of gears to keep that motor running there too. Short runners for more peak hp and low torque. Long runners for torque and less peak power. If you already have runners that were known to work well, just make a full set and add spacers to tune from there.
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Feel free to pm me. All of this can be done.You can print, machine, sand cast, investment cast, you name it. It just depends on how much you want to spend. Making these parts from scratch is not super cheap but, it is much cheaper than the real parts(if the can be found or bought).
