Cru Jones

I guess you would need one that clamps around the shock towers. I don't think I've seen any that don't require drilling or welding for the rear

Ray @ Elephant Supply makes one such shock bar: http://elefantsupply.com/?page_id=59#!/~/product/category=650320&id=4800169

Yep, you read that right. One of the carbs is complete, while the other is in pieces and needs a few things. You'll get everything you see in the pictures below. Complete carb is jetted as such - primary 150 MJ, 150 AC / Secondary 190 MJ, 160 AC - Idle jets unknown.

PM or post if interested.

Location: San Jose, CA

never understood how people use google to find everything else in their lives, yet when they hit the faq they apparently forget how to search.....

If if makes you feel any better in my experience it's been every single motorcycle/car forum I've been on, so don't think it's limited to just the FAQ.

There's a digital copy on eBay for $10. Just search BMW 2002 Handbook.

I too find it ironic that the site doesn't have an actual section titled "FAQ". I realize the technical articles are basically that, but still.

You know if we changed the search default from whatever it is in search forum/topic to 'Google' this would be a simpler solution. Someone should suggest that...Oh, wait it has been suggested.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/140098-change-search-default-behavior/#entry962652

I have actually started to mold that space. For tweeter, or for gauge placement. using the defroster as a wire path.

I looked at doing this before the mirror idea, but the chip wouldn't fit.

I was thinking about doing that myself. If you make on let me know. I'd be interested in one.

This one?

Byas

I suppose it could just be a raw spade terminal, but I assumed it was insulated similar to the female side. Perhaps I'm making this more difficult than it needs to be. :/

I mounted mine in the FASTEN SEAT BELT pod.  I will try to get some pics up later if you would like.

Please do. More options the better. Although, I keep telling myself I'm going to change the 'FASTEN SEAT BELT' sign to read 'LISTEN TO SLAYER'.

Thanks HackMechanic that's what I'm looking for. Ideally, if someone were to make a mold that would essentially extend the area around the instrument cluster for the change pocket that would be great. I was thinking of using the below, but it's probably too deep and would require extensive modifying.

Your auction link seems like it could be the best option. Thanks.

http://thmb.inkfrog.com/rsz.php?username=salesebayℑ=110200008-1.jpg&size=520&gap=0

I really REALLY like Eurotrash's rear view mirror solution.

Yeah, his setup is pretty nice. I'm interested in those of us with the typically gauge bezel setup though.

I was looking through the various mounts possible for the wideband gauge I'm about to put in my car and am trying to visualize the various mounts that people have done. If you've got a picture of your setup that you could post that would be much appreciated. 

I can make Google to be the default search type. Will people want that?

Was about to suggest that. The searches done outside that return sub-optimal results. Case in point, yesterday I wanted to research sale prices of the "32/36" and if I search via Google I get a ton of results (3940) whereby when I search via same string it doesn't handle the "/", so changes search to "3236" which yields a lot less posts. I guess if you can make the Advanced Search search via Google that would suffice. Just seems the forum's search isn't as sophisticated as the Google search and thus misses out on a lot of pertinent topics. 

A lot of good information here:

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals.html

Speaking of connectors...I wanted to find the proper mate for the terminal/connector that looks similar to this on my '74 (one of the old SMOG connectors), but cannot for the life of me find the male connector name. Anybody have an idea? I've search this forum and the Interwebs and this connector is the closest to what it looks like.

On mine I cut some small plates and color matched them and bolted them into the holes. Looks ok, but I've prefer to have some better way of doing it. You can sorta see it in the below.

lastfm - Where are you in CA? Depending on your location those of us local to you can make a recommendation to an honest shop.

Where is that front bumper from?

Good question. I'd like to know as well.

I just got back from two weeks in SoCal. Loved the weather! Now I'm back in Chicago area with a fresh batch of snow. While the 02 sleeps, waiting for me it work on her, I took the e39 out with the DSC turned off out to play in the snow. Can't do that in SoCal.

Drive a few hours up into the mountains and then you can. Easier to get to cold weather from SoCal than it is to escape it from most other places.

As a huge fan of 2T motorcycles I'd love to drive a 2T car.

Here's a pretty cool short vid of a Saab 96. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBHBgg3mSeU

Not from "touch up direct"

I have ordered touch-up paint from "AUTOMOTIVETOUCHUP" a couple of times and overall been very pleased.

http://www.automotivetouchup.com

I've used those guys too and have been pleased as well.

where are you located?

I have an assortment of parts in San Diego, CA. 

Doesn't have to be in great shape. I would actually prefer one that's in "good" shape vs "great" shape.

and that was what was asked/answered in those posts.....

 

the tire fender info was just added as a bonus.

Ok, fair enough my reading comprehension is lacking tonight. I my defense I did re-ask with the additional variable of fixed camber plates.

your same spring question was asked in post #16 of this thread and answered in post #20.....

 

as was mentioned before, the offset spacers do negatively effect the clearance between the top outside of the tire and the top of fender wheel arch.

 

depending on your tire size, ride height and fenders of course.

Not asking about tire/fender clearance, but upper spring/fender/inner body well area.

They shouldnt, think about it here. It kicks the bottom of the strut housing out farther so therefore everything but the fulcrum at the top of the strut is kicked out farther. Therefore since It's not closer you shouldnt have an issue. 

That's what I'm hoping as well, just wanted confirmation from someone who's done it.