Cru Jones

Be VERRRY careful with how and where you hit the pulley with any foreign object, especially if it's a cast iron pulley. Cast iron might hurt your noggin somethin' fierce if it falls on you, but it is BRITTLE and can chip and crack easily when manhandled.

Here's basically how I install a front crank seal.

After removing pulley and old seal:

1) while keeping the outside of the seal perfectly clean and free from oil, I pack the INSIDE of the seal (where the tiny spring resides) with grease. I've always believed this helps keep the spring from getting dislodged and mangled during installation. You don't want it entering your timing chain innards. I also grease the thin "valley" of the seal, where the crank pulley hub will contact it. This avoids immediate damage from a dry pulley grabbing the dry seal surface on first rotation.

2. take fine sandpaper (emory cloth) and spin the shiny area of the pulley hub around in it, so as to remove any burrs or to soften any ridges that may have formed over time. Don't overdo it. Just enough to make it smooth....not smaller in diameter!

3. make DAMN sure the woodruff key is solidly and completely seated in it's groove on the crankshaft.

4. Apply thin coat of grease to pulley outer hub surface... then slide pulley onto crank shaft. Push with palm. If it refuses to seat fully with this technique, use a rubber mallet or small piece of wood / mallet to hit ONLY the CENTER of the pulley as best you can, using a large deep socket that will allow clearance for the crankshaft end inside.

5. tighten crankshaft nut with common ratchet / hand tools good and snug. Maybe 30-40 lb/ft +/- Then REMOVE the nut.

6. Coat inside of nut with a thin coating of RED loctite. Install and tighten to specified torque (see FAQ guide for this).

7. I have a BMW flywheel holder from many years ago, but it's the same as many of the VW ones mentioned. Works GREAT. Best $12 I ever spent.

Bumping this old thread because I'm in the middle of doing this (finally). What grease would you guys suggest to use per step '1'? Also, anyone have a link to a thread where there are some pics of someone using the "bolt" method of keeping the flywheel from moving? Or is it possible to torque it down with just the car in 4th and e-brake on? Lastly, Loctite or no Loctite on the nut (wasn't clear from the various posts).

Looking for a non-tii single groove pulley in good shape. Mine has a slight groove in the seal area, so looking for one that's in better shape than my current one.

Location: San Jose, CA

My main alternator bracket has seen better days, so I'm looking for one that's in good shape. If you have one (for a square tail if that matters) please let me know.

Location: San Jose, CA

I have lots of good roads from the NYC metro area from when I used to ride motorcycles over there I can post up. One of the better ones was 519 in NJ. It was close to NYC and not too crowded, so we rode that often. One of the best roads on the east coast that I rode was VA-16 from Tazewell to Marion. That road was so undiscovered (granted this was back in '08, so has probably changed a bit since) with no police presence that you could ride it as fast as you wanted.

Here's one pic from it:

And a pic from my friend (he was alright) who low-sided when he target fixated on some people that were at turn-off :

Here on the west coast there are so many good roads that it's hard to go wrong. The key here is just timing, so traffic isn't too bad.

My co-worker was suggesting I do that to my car (1.8T engine swap). Seems interesting at the very least.

That engine sounds angry. 

If anyone has a set of the Anton brackets for the front bumper they'd like to sell then let me know. Yes, I know I can get a set from Anton, but figured someone might have a used set that they are not using.

Location: San Jose

I see the 1970 Chaparral 2J is on that list as well. That car is a beast in Gran Turismo.

Nice driving Marshall. I always appreciate videos of people flogging the '02 around. We need more of those around here.

Looking for the inner trim that sits on the door card. It's part number 51216440182 aka Interior Right Front Molding.

Location: San Jose, CA

PM sent.

Congrats Dave. Car looks the business.

Email it to me, I'll post it when I get a chance steve at bmw 2002 far dot com

Thanks,

Steve K.

Invite sent to the Box.com file.

i would love to host it if BMW does not mind. there is a PDF, but it is not in order and hard to search

 

steve k.

Mine is in order, is color and is searchable. It's in PDF form. Not sure what BMW's stance on it would be. The other alternative is for me to send it to another site that has a bunch of old owner's manuals and we could just like to to the file on their site.

Or just drive around without wipers

That wouldn't work that well this week.

Made me laugh.  Oh the humility we endure sometimes.

 

Times like that is when the wife or girlfriend just shakes her head.

Once I realized I had a chance at retrieving the arm I laughed pretty loudly in the car. 

For those of us that live in climates that don't get much rain I'd like to remind everyone to check their wiper arms. I had the pleasure of witnessing my passenger arm fly off this morning (luckily was able to retrieve it). 

Why hasn't anyone posted up an English version of the manual online somewhere? I'm tempted to buy one and do it just so it's online somewhere.

Am I quoting myself? Yes, I am. A while back I did just this and since I've sold enough on eBay to cover my time invested I'll give them away to anyone who wants one now.

Steve - Ideally if it could be hosted here that would be preferred.

showoff07, how many ads are you going to place for the same car??!!

Seriously. 1 ad is all you need.

That's the car that they were trying to sell on CL for $8K a while back. Somehow it's now worth $12k? 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/141782-1974-2002tii-rust-buy-or-stay-away/

if you are really bored, name the movie or TV show these questions were asked in.

What is the terminal velocity of a sparrow?

Is it carrying a coconut? 

Well done. Let us know when we can purchase them.

If only that would work with a center exhaust...

From my experience I have that little nozzle adaptor thingy from Chris (I think) and that works to allow me to put in fuel, but then the cut-off for the pump doesn't work in time. So, I always over estimate my mpg and associated fuel guesstimation, stop fuelling about .5 gallon prior then take out the adaptor and input the nozzle and pump slowly the last gallon or so then the pump cut-off will work. I have to angle the nozzle a bit oddly, but it works.

Further update...did the euro vent and saw no noticeable change, so issue isn't vent related it appears.

Also, change MJ to 135 and car pulls strong up to ~4K then I must lift and coax it to get to 6K, but then again sometimes I don't. I can't explain exactly how it behaves since it's very inconsistent. I have to do coax it to get it to rev hard when I stomp on it under lower revs (~2.5K), but other times not. It's to the point now that I can't help, but think that my root issue is not carb related. I suspect I have some other issue which is preventing me from being able to stomp on the gas and expect it to rev up through 'til redline with any consistency.   If this car were just a street car then I'd be just slightly annoyed, but since this car was bought as a quasi-replacement for my track bike it's beyond irritating. The way it is now there's no way I could take this car to the track.